Electric fan mod on 22re need input?
#1
Electric fan mod on 22re need input?
ok so here it is its kinda too late for this but i bought an electric fan off ebay it 14in i think 2000cfm.... how much airflow is needed to properly cool a 22re ? ive always heard of the ford taurus fan mod but dont know how much that fan actually pushes any one with an electric fan im interested in what you went with?
#2
Think your fan is way on the low side. seems the flexalite 165 is around 2800cfm and the taurus is around 4000cfm. Don't remember numbers for sure but someone else will surely chime in.
caution on controllers as I've burn up three.
caution on controllers as I've burn up three.
#4
I have the taurus fan in mine. not sure of the cfm rating but it works great. I used a control from dc controls. they are very nice solid state controls but will take about a month to get it. worth the wait. I got my fan for about 40 at the local wrecking yard.
#6
um it's actually a good thing to have both a thermo switch and a toggle switch. If you wheel enough and do water crossings you will learn that looks isn't everything. Functionality is what counts in the end.
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#8
To be fair the Taurus fan does not need to run on High to keep the 22re cool. Does anyone know the CFM of it on slow?
Give your fan a try and keep an eye on temperature, I'd wager you will be alright.
Give your fan a try and keep an eye on temperature, I'd wager you will be alright.
#10
#11
I'd agree on the switch part
you always want to have an over-ride if the thermostatic switch malfunctions
I had a 3-way switch wired into mine
Down was fully automatic; kicked on once the engine reached a certain temp, or when the AC was kicked on
Middle was over-ride off; completely disabled the e-fan
Up was over-ride on; just turned the fan on, regardless of engine temp or anything
worked good for when the AC was on and you were on the highway; no need to have the fan on if your doing 65mph

my fan was not a Taurus fan though; I spent a little money on my setup




you always want to have an over-ride if the thermostatic switch malfunctions
I had a 3-way switch wired into mine
Down was fully automatic; kicked on once the engine reached a certain temp, or when the AC was kicked on
Middle was over-ride off; completely disabled the e-fan
Up was over-ride on; just turned the fan on, regardless of engine temp or anything
worked good for when the AC was on and you were on the highway; no need to have the fan on if your doing 65mph


my fan was not a Taurus fan though; I spent a little money on my setup





Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Oct 17, 2010 at 09:43 AM.
#16
#18
first you had said it was 2000cfm not it's 1500cfm? and I would be willing to bet, that since it's an ebay dealy that that 1500 cfm is overrated too. A fan "upgrade" is not something I would be playing around with the cheapest bidder deal.
#19
Setup the wiring and hook up the fan. Drive a bit and see if it is adequate for cooling or not. CFM won't mean anything if your wiring is too restrictive. Make sure you set up the wiring for a larger fan. Mine is set up for around 65 amp draw. I have an electric fan mounted to my radiator from a dodge avenger. It has been adequate cooling the 3.0. If I go up a long hill with it a loaded rig, I crank the heat, but I never have boilover or overheating. I used to get hot before I corrected the wiring. I have a mercury villager fan in the garage, but I haven't had the need to install it yet. I will probably do that when I fix my AC in the springtime.
My setup is for a 3.0. You should just install the fan and wiring, and relay(s), and drive. Worst case scenario, you'll notice the temp climbing slightly above normal and have to crank the heater.
My setup is for a 3.0. You should just install the fan and wiring, and relay(s), and drive. Worst case scenario, you'll notice the temp climbing slightly above normal and have to crank the heater.






