warmonger88

I'm mounting an electric fan in my 3.0 4runner and was wondering what others have done in regards to wiring in the temp controller. I have a pos, neg, switched 12v, and A/C bypass. First off, I'm not sure what switched signal to use. Should I run a wire to the fuse box in the cab or tap into something in the engine bay ( and what should I tap into in the engine bay)? Secondly, I need to know what wire is the A/C condenser positive ( color and stripe).

akwheeler

What I did for mine was to run two fused positives to the battery (I put in dual fans) to two relays (I didn't want one fuse or one relay failure to disable both fans) then to the fan motors and the ground straight back to the battery. the control for the relays I wired to the same battery ground for the fans and the positive goes through the temp controller then to a kill switch on my dash (so I can turn the fans off if I'm in deep water) and then to a switched 12 volt source under the dash. I'm too far away from my rig to check wire colors and too lazy to look up the drawings, but I am also looking to put in a bypass to take over the A/C fan if the engine is getting hot. let me know what you come up with, but my plan is to use the normally closed contacts on a relay for normal operation of the A/C fan and the normally open side to supply power when I need it to run for over-temp which I will probably control with another temp controller adjusted to a higher temp.

akwheeler

also keep in mind that electric fans will have a tough time putting out enough air to keep your motor cool so it is important for you to have a good reason to go to the trouble and expense (good fans that move lots of air cost lots of money). I also don't yet know how my setup will work in summer climbing hills or mudbogging.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Why ??

Over the last 20 years I must have removed 40 of these Electric fan Mods and returned to stock cooling

Now if you have a swap where the stock fan just will not fit about the only reason.

Keep good notes of the wiring you do. Nothing like being 1000 miles from home and no clue just what you did

warmonger88

I was wondering about setting up a kill switch in the cab also. mostly I won't need the fan from Dec-March due to winter in Idaho being cold and windy AF.I got the setup fairly cheap from summit. $130 for everything. I made my fan mounts from some 1/8"x3" flat bar to match all of the stock shroud mount holes. The last real owner did a bunch of sketchy stuff to the 4runner, because meth, and had an unknown electric fan bungee corded to the radiator, also not hooked up. I got the rig really cheap a few weeks back, this being the last thing before it is on the road again.

RAD4Runner

YUP!
From the Movie 12-Strong:


More from Real Toyota Wars here.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

Had stock on my 22R-E, put an e-fan on, melted a fuse, put stock back on (no shroud), cooled just fine.

I have the stock fan/no shroud on my 5VZ-FE swap, and it cools just fine. We'll see with the coming summer months, but I don't see any issues.

warmonger88

So I have another question for anyone running electric fans on your 3vze, where did you get your power steering belt or at least what was the size?

akwheeler

you need to just keep the same belt, remove the fan and bolt the pulley back down, I didn't even loosen the belt.

warmonger88

I don't have the fan bracket at all, never did. I'm making a cover for the exposed belt at work, but I was hoping someone on here got rid of the pulley and had a belt size I could use. There was a belt on it already, but it was so short and tight that you didn't even need to tighten the adjustment bolt on the power steering pump. I did get a belt length with a string, it was 42", but that is the absolute bottom of the pulley groove. I had a 41.5" belt, but it was a little short. I'm going to pick up a 42" and 43" to see if one of those will work.

akwheeler

this would have been WAY easier and cheaper (and work better) if you went to a junkyard and got the fan/hub/pulley/shroud and stayed stock.

warmonger88

the junkyards around here couldn't help me. Toyota parts are hard to find when I actually need them. I'm still only into it $140.

akwheeler

You will still need the fan if you want to warm up your rig to thaw out the windows before you drive, and any time you are sitting at a stoplight or in a drive thru. If you forget to turn on your fan it only takes a couple of minutes to overheat even in cold weather!
I recently had a chance to try out my setup with a load, I hauled a trailer onto the beach nearby so my girl could collect rocks for a rock wall she is building. coming off of the beach with a load I had to drive through sand up to and over a gravel bank that took a lot of throttle and both lockers to pull the loaded trailer up and over. the first run I got really hot and had to stop at the beach access parking area to let it cool down, then up a steep hill, cool down again, then a couple of rolling hills and a 5 mile run to her house with another stop to cool off on the way.
The outside air temp was only 40 degrees.
On my next 2 runs I turned on the A/C and started my assault on the beach head with a cool motor and hit it with some speed. The extra fan running really helped and I was able to make the whole drive without stopping.
I don't have very high hopes of this working when it hits 70 (or even 80 sometimes here) unless I'm doing 60 on flat ground. So I either have more work ahead of me or I need to return to the original setup.
but since I haven't modified much of anything I can put the fan and shroud back on in about 20 minutes.
keep this in mind as you continue to make it harder to undo!

warmonger88

I did put a lit switch in the dash so I can see if it's on, but I think I'm still going to add in an override for the A/C. The winter here stays under 40 degrees in the sun from November to February, but the 4runner I'm putting it on is a highway queen. It probably wont see anything worse than a gravel driveway. I really don't tow anything either, I've got an 83 pickup for beating up offroad also.

warmonger88

Just for everyone's information, the power steering belt that fit without the dummy water pump is a 55" v belt.

the171

I converted my 22re truck to e fan a while back. I used a slim fan. At time of install I also installed an Autometer digital water temp gauge and override switch and an on/off light.

Benefits:
-more free space. Fan is much smaller. Shroud is eliminated.
-ability to run an override switch
-ability to run an on/off light
-less wondering if fan is working/ more information.
-Minor improvement in engine response.

The fan + wiring is wired directly to the battery. Power wiring goes to a fuse and then to a relay then to the fan. A fun thing I discovered is that a Honda Prelude H22A fan switch will thread into the cold start injector port. I live in a cold climate so hooked up the cold start injector via manual switch. The fan switch will ground out at temp engaging the relay, turning the fan on. To override the fan hook up a switch inside the cab to manually gound out the relay. Adding in a little light beside your in cab switch tells you when the fan is running. A quality water temp gauge tells the whole story. Now you can see at what temp the fan comes on and turns off and you will have an overall very good idea of cooling system operation.

mech fans are great, Definitely for large vehicles there is no other option. My yota is my road vehicle, I dont do any wheeling. Perhaps for wheeling a mech fan has benefits. For my purposes however this setup has been a nice upgrade and has proven reliable year round.

I will say that the plastic through-rad mount stems that come with the slim fans are junk. They'll break and damage the rad cooling fins. Building a custom fan mount should be part of a proper install.