Egr/pair vaccum issue, and a unidentifiable hose 95-4r
10-15-2014, 09:59 PM
#1
Egr/pair vaccum issue, and a unidentifiable hose 95-4r
Hello, I have a 95 4runner v6 2wd and iv'e had this engine light that keeps coming on with a code 71 i believe. (this has been on since i bought the car a year or two back) So recently i started to follow the vacuum hose diagram and as soon as i moved the hoses, they snapped. So i replaced all of the hose's from the Throttle body, The vacuum rail, and from the egr. Since the old hoses had holes in them. Still made no difference, even after deleting the codes, the came right back. I tested the metal lines for clearance, and found out that they were clogged, and some had little to barely any air going through them..so i bought about a two foot vacuum line and just straight connected it(fuel pressure regulator) Noticed a stronger vacuum, a big difference. Still the light came straight back on but after a day or two this time. I look at the lines that connect to the egr, and to the egr vacuum modulator and they were clogged also. so i got more vacuum hoses and by passed the metal lines.
My question is this, could the problem be my egr valve? Or my Pair valve?
Because i have a T-Valve besides a check valve that connect's to some random tube that connects to the Power steering, no in or out pressure, or liquid. Also as soon as I disconnect it, my pair valve stops making a buzzing noise, and when i connect it, or just stop it with my finger, the valve begins to buzz again. Also i notice a difference in rhythm that comes from the exhaust. Connected sound's clear, disconnected a faint little skip. I Think the pair valve is the culprit, since i did the new vacuum connections today i really didn't have anytime to see if the light would reappear.
About my truck before finding out about the clogged lines.
Perfect idle
engine compartment gets really hot, but temp say's its alright.
bad shifting, but every time i fix a vacuum hose, i get more power and speed(oddly as it sounds)
Any idea's ?
My question is this, could the problem be my egr valve? Or my Pair valve?
Because i have a T-Valve besides a check valve that connect's to some random tube that connects to the Power steering, no in or out pressure, or liquid. Also as soon as I disconnect it, my pair valve stops making a buzzing noise, and when i connect it, or just stop it with my finger, the valve begins to buzz again. Also i notice a difference in rhythm that comes from the exhaust. Connected sound's clear, disconnected a faint little skip. I Think the pair valve is the culprit, since i did the new vacuum connections today i really didn't have anytime to see if the light would reappear.
About my truck before finding out about the clogged lines.
Perfect idle
engine compartment gets really hot, but temp say's its alright.
bad shifting, but every time i fix a vacuum hose, i get more power and speed(oddly as it sounds)
Any idea's ?
10-15-2014, 10:02 PM
#2
the first and second picture are the clogged metal lines, and if youd like i could post a better picture of the by passed lines i've made.
And the third picture is of the T-Valve that has a weird hose that connects to the steering pump. And it dosn't have the orange and black valve.
And the third picture is of the T-Valve that has a weird hose that connects to the steering pump. And it dosn't have the orange and black valve.
10-15-2014, 10:10 PM
#3
bypassed vacuum lines
The red from the both pictures is the straight bypassed connection i made.
the Blue is another bypassed connection.
The light green is another highlight bypass
the Blue is another bypassed connection.
The light green is another highlight bypass
10-16-2014, 04:03 AM
#4
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First, the easy stuff. The "buzzing" you hear from the PAIR valve is a loose cover. There are 4 5mm phillips-head screws holding a sheet-metal cover; when those screws get loose they buzz. Tighten them. (If you've lost a screw, replace it with a hex socket-head (Allen-head) screw. Much easier to get too that way.) And it has nothing to do with your code 71.
The code 71 is triggered by a temperature sensor in the exhaust-intake line. No exhaust is going through when it should be, the sensor stays cold, the ECU knows the EGR isn't working. Just follow the diagnostics. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...77exhaustg.pdf
Member Terrys87 had an EGR problem where he found the vacuum passages to the EGR valve (or was it modulator?) were clogged (try a search for his posts). If your metal lines were clogged, you might have the same problem in the valve.
10-16-2014, 08:08 AM
#5
For an unknown code, that's a lot of work. 71 is the EGR system, http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf but if it were me I'd confirm the code before doing too much more work.
First, the easy stuff. The "buzzing" you hear from the PAIR valve is a loose cover. There are 4 5mm phillips-head screws holding a sheet-metal cover; when those screws get loose they buzz. Tighten them. (If you've lost a screw, replace it with a hex socket-head (Allen-head) screw. Much easier to get too that way.) And it has nothing to do with your code 71.
The code 71 is triggered by a temperature sensor in the exhaust-intake line. No exhaust is going through when it should be, the sensor stays cold, the ECU knows the EGR isn't working. Just follow the diagnostics. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...77exhaustg.pdf
Member Terrys87 had an EGR problem where he found the vacuum passages to the EGR valve (or was it modulator?) were clogged (try a search for his posts). If your metal lines were clogged, you might have the same problem in the valve.
First, the easy stuff. The "buzzing" you hear from the PAIR valve is a loose cover. There are 4 5mm phillips-head screws holding a sheet-metal cover; when those screws get loose they buzz. Tighten them. (If you've lost a screw, replace it with a hex socket-head (Allen-head) screw. Much easier to get too that way.) And it has nothing to do with your code 71.
The code 71 is triggered by a temperature sensor in the exhaust-intake line. No exhaust is going through when it should be, the sensor stays cold, the ECU knows the EGR isn't working. Just follow the diagnostics. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...77exhaustg.pdf
Member Terrys87 had an EGR problem where he found the vacuum passages to the EGR valve (or was it modulator?) were clogged (try a search for his posts). If your metal lines were clogged, you might have the same problem in the valve.
Last edited by pewdiepie; 10-16-2014 at 08:11 AM.
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10-21-2014, 06:32 AM
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Why don't you shoot a picture of your vacuum diagram. Are you pretty sure you're following it now?
The Fuel pressure regulator vacuum input connects, not to the plenum, but to the FPU (Fuel Pressure-Up) VSV (through a metal line under the plenum). Is that how you "straight connected" it? The PAIR connects to the "gas filter" (screwed into the side of the plenum, 3 ports, one of which looks like it's capped in your picture), THROUGH a black/orange check valve (orange towards the PAIR).
There are two Tees on mine. One splits a gas filter vacuum port between cruise and ADD. Since yours is 2wd you don't have ADD; do you have cruise? The other splits a gas filter vacuum port between AC and FPU.
Pictures of Tees don't help me at all. It's like a wiring diagram. All that matters is what connects to what. So if you think you're hooked up incorrectly, you've got to trace each hose, AND DRAW A PICTURE.
If your under-plenum metal lines were blocked somehow, could your throttle body ports also be blocked? The manual page I gave you earlier goes through which lines should get vacuum when.
This diagram is for a 2wd, it may help.
The Fuel pressure regulator vacuum input connects, not to the plenum, but to the FPU (Fuel Pressure-Up) VSV (through a metal line under the plenum). Is that how you "straight connected" it? The PAIR connects to the "gas filter" (screwed into the side of the plenum, 3 ports, one of which looks like it's capped in your picture), THROUGH a black/orange check valve (orange towards the PAIR).
There are two Tees on mine. One splits a gas filter vacuum port between cruise and ADD. Since yours is 2wd you don't have ADD; do you have cruise? The other splits a gas filter vacuum port between AC and FPU.
Pictures of Tees don't help me at all. It's like a wiring diagram. All that matters is what connects to what. So if you think you're hooked up incorrectly, you've got to trace each hose, AND DRAW A PICTURE.
If your under-plenum metal lines were blocked somehow, could your throttle body ports also be blocked? The manual page I gave you earlier goes through which lines should get vacuum when.
This diagram is for a 2wd, it may help.
10-21-2014, 06:52 AM
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Alright! Something I can help with! I chased this code 71 for what felt like forever. I confirmed the EGR was working properly(yup). I checked and double checked and triple checked the vacuum line placement. That's probably the trickiest part of this engine, for me anyway. What it actually tuned out to be was the EGR Vacuum Solenoid. There is a diaphragm inside of that solenoid that was torn so it wouldn't hold vacuum and the EGR wouldn't operate because of it. Replaced it, drove around block BOOM light out code gone I haven't seen it ever since.
The PAIR reed valve just needs those screws. Be forewarned though, put some thread lock on those threads or you'll be revisited by the PAIR gurgle ghosts again.
I cannot stress enough to triple check those vacuum lines. I printed a diagram, looked under the hood, googled diagrams. I made sure everything was where it should have been.
The PAIR reed valve just needs those screws. Be forewarned though, put some thread lock on those threads or you'll be revisited by the PAIR gurgle ghosts again.
I cannot stress enough to triple check those vacuum lines. I printed a diagram, looked under the hood, googled diagrams. I made sure everything was where it should have been.
10-21-2014, 08:00 AM
#10
Alright! Something I can help with! I chased this code 71 for what felt like forever. I confirmed the EGR was working properly(yup). I checked and double checked and triple checked the vacuum line placement. That's probably the trickiest part of this engine, for me anyway. What it actually tuned out to be was the EGR Vacuum Solenoid. There is a diaphragm inside of that solenoid that was torn so it wouldn't hold vacuum and the EGR wouldn't operate because of it. Replaced it, drove around block BOOM light out code gone I haven't seen it ever since.
The PAIR reed valve just needs those screws. Be forewarned though, put some thread lock on those threads or you'll be revisited by the PAIR gurgle ghosts again.
I cannot stress enough to triple check those vacuum lines. I printed a diagram, looked under the hood, googled diagrams. I made sure everything was where it should have been.
The PAIR reed valve just needs those screws. Be forewarned though, put some thread lock on those threads or you'll be revisited by the PAIR gurgle ghosts again.
I cannot stress enough to triple check those vacuum lines. I printed a diagram, looked under the hood, googled diagrams. I made sure everything was where it should have been.
10-21-2014, 08:01 AM
#11
Why don't you shoot a picture of your vacuum diagram. Are you pretty sure you're following it now?
The Fuel pressure regulator vacuum input connects, not to the plenum, but to the FPU (Fuel Pressure-Up) VSV (through a metal line under the plenum). Is that how you "straight connected" it? The PAIR connects to the "gas filter" (screwed into the side of the plenum, 3 ports, one of which looks like it's capped in your picture), THROUGH a black/orange check valve (orange towards the PAIR).
There are two Tees on mine. One splits a gas filter vacuum port between cruise and ADD. Since yours is 2wd you don't have ADD; do you have cruise? The other splits a gas filter vacuum port between AC and FPU.
Pictures of Tees don't help me at all. It's like a wiring diagram. All that matters is what connects to what. So if you think you're hooked up incorrectly, you've got to trace each hose, AND DRAW A PICTURE.
If your under-plenum metal lines were blocked somehow, could your throttle body ports also be blocked? The manual page I gave you earlier goes through which lines should get vacuum when.
This diagram is for a 2wd, it may help.
The Fuel pressure regulator vacuum input connects, not to the plenum, but to the FPU (Fuel Pressure-Up) VSV (through a metal line under the plenum). Is that how you "straight connected" it? The PAIR connects to the "gas filter" (screwed into the side of the plenum, 3 ports, one of which looks like it's capped in your picture), THROUGH a black/orange check valve (orange towards the PAIR).
There are two Tees on mine. One splits a gas filter vacuum port between cruise and ADD. Since yours is 2wd you don't have ADD; do you have cruise? The other splits a gas filter vacuum port between AC and FPU.
Pictures of Tees don't help me at all. It's like a wiring diagram. All that matters is what connects to what. So if you think you're hooked up incorrectly, you've got to trace each hose, AND DRAW A PICTURE.
If your under-plenum metal lines were blocked somehow, could your throttle body ports also be blocked? The manual page I gave you earlier goes through which lines should get vacuum when.
This diagram is for a 2wd, it may help.
10-21-2014, 08:07 AM
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Even if the Vacuum Switching Valve is working the EGR Vacuum Solenoid wont pull vacuum. The VSV and the Vacuum solenoid are two different things. The EGR Vacuum Solenoid is the black capped thing right next to your EGR. It has the two vacuum lines coming off of it going to the throttle body.
10-21-2014, 08:46 AM
#13
Why don't you shoot a picture of your vacuum diagram. Are you pretty sure you're following it now?
The Fuel pressure regulator vacuum input connects, not to the plenum, but to the FPU (Fuel Pressure-Up) VSV (through a metal line under the plenum). Is that how you "straight connected" it? The PAIR connects to the "gas filter" (screwed into the side of the plenum, 3 ports, one of which looks like it's capped in your picture), THROUGH a black/orange check valve (orange towards the PAIR).
There are two Tees on mine. One splits a gas filter vacuum port between cruise and ADD. Since yours is 2wd you don't have ADD; do you have cruise? The other splits a gas filter vacuum port between AC and FPU.
Pictures of Tees don't help me at all. It's like a wiring diagram. All that matters is what connects to what. So if you think you're hooked up incorrectly, you've got to trace each hose, AND DRAW A PICTURE.
If your under-plenum metal lines were blocked somehow, could your throttle body ports also be blocked? The manual page I gave you earlier goes through which lines should get vacuum when.
This diagram is for a 2wd, it may help.
The Fuel pressure regulator vacuum input connects, not to the plenum, but to the FPU (Fuel Pressure-Up) VSV (through a metal line under the plenum). Is that how you "straight connected" it? The PAIR connects to the "gas filter" (screwed into the side of the plenum, 3 ports, one of which looks like it's capped in your picture), THROUGH a black/orange check valve (orange towards the PAIR).
There are two Tees on mine. One splits a gas filter vacuum port between cruise and ADD. Since yours is 2wd you don't have ADD; do you have cruise? The other splits a gas filter vacuum port between AC and FPU.
Pictures of Tees don't help me at all. It's like a wiring diagram. All that matters is what connects to what. So if you think you're hooked up incorrectly, you've got to trace each hose, AND DRAW A PICTURE.
If your under-plenum metal lines were blocked somehow, could your throttle body ports also be blocked? The manual page I gave you earlier goes through which lines should get vacuum when.
This diagram is for a 2wd, it may help.
10-21-2014, 09:00 AM
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e-help-209069/
This thread helped me with my vacuum problems.
This thread helped me with my vacuum problems.
10-21-2014, 09:17 AM
#15
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e-help-209069/
This thread helped me with my vacuum problems.
This thread helped me with my vacuum problems.
10-21-2014, 09:20 AM
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Pictures of bolts, or random hoses, don't help anyone (they're sure not helping you). Where does that hose go? I'm going to guess it's the vacuum end of the power steering idle-up. Are both of your PS idle up hoses connected? The other possibility is A/C idle-up. Do you have A/C?
Yes, vacuum routing depends on equipment. That's why there is a sticker under your hood. Asking questions about vacuum lines without reference to that sticker is doing things just about the most difficult way possible.
10-21-2014, 09:22 AM
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10-21-2014, 09:29 AM
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http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...130&cc=1272484
This is the part that was my problem and solved my problem. This is the part I'm talking about. Air can go through all day long but its when vacuum is applied that it changes. If I remember correctly it pulls vacuum on the EGR to actually open/close it to allow it to function properly.
This is the part that was my problem and solved my problem. This is the part I'm talking about. Air can go through all day long but its when vacuum is applied that it changes. If I remember correctly it pulls vacuum on the EGR to actually open/close it to allow it to function properly.
10-30-2014, 12:14 AM
#20
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...130&cc=1272484
This is the part that was my problem and solved my problem. This is the part I'm talking about. Air can go through all day long but its when vacuum is applied that it changes. If I remember correctly it pulls vacuum on the EGR to actually open/close it to allow it to function properly.
This is the part that was my problem and solved my problem. This is the part I'm talking about. Air can go through all day long but its when vacuum is applied that it changes. If I remember correctly it pulls vacuum on the EGR to actually open/close it to allow it to function properly.
Well after removing the retarded plugged line, everything is still the same, the vaccum modulator was replaced since I tested it and the diaphragm was gone, and I check the egr vsv while I was at it and both sides of vaccum connections were plugged. Got a new one from the junkyard which both sides flow clearly. The red vsv also both sides flow clear, and the blue vsv if I blow on the tube where it's closer to the black filter I betleive I can hear air escape from the black piece that's sticking out, but not from the other end like the others, when I test the other end when I apply vaccum or pressure still not a clear flow like the others, which I suspect could be clogged or its different from the others and electronically opens the other side. Also while I was at the junk yard I got a black and orange valve which still didn't do squat. So now I still have the light coming on, and get this. My spring semester of 2013 I've noticed the female connector to the temp sensor was literally being held literally by one thread on each side. Then...it fell off. So I attempted to reconnect it but didn't really know which color went to which side so I gambled at my best memory of what I remember. Since then it was like it was. (BTW the light was on before I found out about the hanging to life connector) So after posting this thread and after school(college) I put a 10k resistor and wow my car smelled liked death. horrible bogging while test driving, couldn't have my radio on or bass. So i stopped at the gas station, removed the 10k resistor and replugged the connection, only to find out I accidently pulled the connections out the connector (still female side from car) on my way back home.. still the same symptoms and as soon as I got to my dorm, like a mad man I got my tools, stormed to my truck and nuterd the connector from the temp sensor (male) and the female
Then attached some male end thingies to the temp sensor, the for the car I added a female connector, minus the harness, I'll post pic tmrw, this time I will. Soo turned out after I was done... i sorta didn't know what connected to what.. so I gambled... and we'll the first way I did it I got alot of power and drive for about a good amount of time until the light comes back on...almost pulled over and torch the car..but resisted. Later I swapped the connection and found out it was sorta the same, yet the smell from my exhaust smelled right. Like any other car. I don't go out sniffing exhausts but you get the idea. But still acceleration is a little bit slower. And I can't use the base in my car.
I have no idea what's going on still, swear I tried with an ohm meter on the connection to the sensor and no ground or power, which I still beleive is triggered by the computer. But the sensor is clean, egr holds pressure, I'll soon check the plenum. And also I don't have any vaccum or to my belief as I tested it for vaccum or pressure, got nothing to give me hope.
Maybe the way I connected it is the right way but it feels like a ground issue? At night while driving with the headlights on and safetly turning them off briefly(well lit area) rpms go up. When I connect the sensor the other way, no problems with the headlights or radio at night... halp ..
Also is this a ground? Tested it with a light tester and I got nothing.
