Well, my LC Engineering EGR delete kit and crossover block plate came last night. Only took a week to get here, I've heard people complain before about the length of time theirs took to arrive so I'm pretty happy. It looks really good and I'm excited to install it and clean up my engine bay a bit. I didn't post last night because my 1986 Honda TRX250R restoration was occupying me.

 

post some before and after pics!!!!

 

LCE egr delete plates, what a waste of money. $25 for $5 worth of metal. I was tempted to order from them, but their shipping was more than the actual part. I made mine in about 20 minutes

 

I don't have the stuff to make them so I just bought them, and it'll be a while before I put them on. I'm pulling the entire engine this summer to clean the block and whatnot.

 

EGR delete? Why? If you're in a location that does visual inspections, not having the EGR valve in place and hooked up is an automatic fail.

I cut the top and bottom off a soda can then sliced it long-ways so I had a rather large sheet of aluminum. I laid my EGR valve on top and traced it onto the can's metal then cut along the lines, laid that down and cut another piece. I took the two pieces, stacked them, then made holes to match where the bolts go through, then smacked them with a framing hammer which left little dents in them and then put them with some RTV between the EGR valve and the head. So my investment was my time, 5 cents lost on recycling the can, and I already had RTV laying around going bad... so 5 cents. And maybe another 10 cents if I decide to install and hide the resistor to bypass the EGR temp sensor, which is what throws the code.

Now for those of you that know me a bit, you know I'm not into defeating emissions equipment for mediocre performance gains, and in particular the EGR which is mostly negligible since it should only operate at part-throttle, and therefore incur no performance penalty when it operates. So, my excuse is I had the rear-most exhaust manifold stud on the intake manifold break and after the drilling and helicoil insert to the head, the truck wouldn't start. Blocking the EGR was the only way it would run. Luckily, the truck doesn't throw the EGR code unless the truck travels more than a few (like 5) miles at speeds over 45mph, and California only dyno's to ~25mph, which I passed, and the Magnaflow converter did its job better than I expected.

 

I think "cleaning up the engine bay" or "getting rid of some vacuum hoses" are even worse excuses.

 

How did you guys reach the lower bolts attatched to the manifold. I cannot seem to find a way to reach those.
And did you saw off the flanges of the pipes?

 

Excuse my ignorance here but what benefit does this "mod" accomplish??

 

I just got a re-manned 1993 22re put in my yota pickup and I'm going to delete it. What all should I know before doing this?