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Help my EGR woes... 1993 3VZ-E 4x4 dlx 5-speed

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Old 08-10-2015, 06:43 PM
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Help my EGR woes... 1993 3VZ-E 4x4 dlx 5-speed

So my truck runs great, I've had the HG done twice since new (once on recall) and she has 124,500 on the clock now but the issue that plagues me now is my CEL light keeps coming on. The obd1 wire code read says code 71 EGR fault. I took it to the Stealership and they diagnosed it with a bad EGR modulator and VSV $636!!!! I've already replaced/repaired the TVV sensor. I promptly burned rubber leaving and bought the modulator on Amazon for $16 but couldn't find the vsv or even what it is exactly.... Is it that whole block of vacuum stuff???

My question is do I just online shop and swap, or do an "EGR delete" whatever that is??? I'm in southern CA and any emission stuff is tough to pass here. Please help, pics etc. I'm not a pro, but I can hopefully fix this on my own.















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Old 08-10-2015, 07:28 PM
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Don't even bother thinking about an "EGR delete." You won't be able to pass smog, you can't legally sell your truck, you'll be poisoning the air you and everyone else breath. Plus it won't make the CEL go away.

"online shop and swap"? You'll burn up that $636 in no time. Plus we'll all laugh at you.

You already know it is either the modulator or VSV or both. (By the way, if your $16 modulator is a Dorman 911-609, even Amazon says it won't fit your truck.) So read up on how the EGR works, http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...77exhaustg.pdf , and run the prescribed tests. Rockauto has the correct (aftermarket) modulator for about $50. The VSV is about $100, so if that's your problem you could consider a salvage yard.
Old 08-10-2015, 07:37 PM
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The vaccum line from the modulator to the EGR gets clogged can throw a code. I have always gotten an EGR to work by cleaning. Air is not flowing somewhere. Check all hoses and ports.

This is for a 22re but applies to your issues as well.

Copied...
Fix for EGR/ Code 71

I got a couple of pictures out of order, but this should give you a good idea of what is needed to be done. You can leave the Plenum on the truck and clean the parts and hoses, I tried to explain both on and off the truck. Best is to take it off and pressure wash it.

I have ran into several EGR codes 71. I have been able to get them fixed without ever replacing one. There may come a time that I will have to replace one. To fix this problem, it will have a bunch of carbon, blocking flow of things. These EGRs usually cost $150 or more new.

2 bolts hold it to the back of the plenum and 3 to the head. Remove and clean out the little tube on the EGR for the vacuum hose and the pipes attached to the EGR. I will use a drill bit, cloth hanger and air hose. Probably could use brake cleaner or something.

This EGR is set up a little different then most but the Valve and EGR are the same as yours. You should be able to a vacuum on the hose and a vacuum on the EGR and get air to flow through(where my thumb and pointer finger is). I have a drill bit in the small tube. I usually try to take the screw out and but this one doesnt want to come out and dont want to risk breaking. A small wire will get around the bend. Get all pipes clean.
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If you leave the Plenum on the truck,take a cloth hanger/ wire and clean out the back of the Plenum where the 2 bolts connect. It will have a bunch of carbon there also. I just work it with wire and air hose til I get it the best that I can.

Here is how I clean the EGR. You will most likely need to pull the Plenum and clean all of the hoses and pipes as they will probably be plugged as well.

I worked on the EGR. Here is another picture that may look like the wrong way to do this, but the screw will strip if you use a screwdriver. Get a good firm grip, but not so hard to distort the screw.
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With the screw out, get another bite on the the pipe to get it out of the EGR. Leave the carbon in the pipe at this time as it will help keep the pipe round. The carbon is hard as concrete. Slowly work back and forth to get the pipe spinning inside the EGR tube and to start breaking it free. Could take up to 10 minutes but just be patient.
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Here is me using a drill bit. I have never gotten as screw out with a Phillips screwdriver. Ususally rusted to bad. I use vise grips, then getting the pipe out is another job in itself. Take your time, you have to get this out to get all the carbon out.
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After it is apart, I use a drill bit, screw driver, nail, clothes hanger to get all of the carbon out. It is rock solid in places. You can put vacuum on the hose and see and hear the plunger moving and operating inside the EGR, the goldish part.


If you take the Plenum off, Pull the Throttle Body off and take the Plenum to the carwash. The Thottle Postion Sensor is on the Throttle Body. Dont get it wet with water or cleaner. I just leave it on. You dont want the TPS giving problems. Where the EGR connects on to the Plenum, it will be very dirty. It has tubes that go through the Plenum so you wont be able to see all the way through. I take some kind of cleaner and spray into it to break up the carbon.
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If you take the Plenum off, Pull the Throttle Body off and take the Plenum to the carwash. The Thottle Postion Sensor is on the Throttle Body. Dont get it wet with water or cleaner. I just leave it on. You dont want the TPS giving problems. Where the EGR connects on to the Plenum, it will be very dirty. It has tubes that go through the Plenum so you wont be able to see all the way through. I take some kind of cleaner and spray into it to break up the carbon.
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On the Brown Valve, just pop the black cap off and take an air hose and blow the paper filter clean.
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All of the hose connections on the Plenum will more than likely be plugged to. Here to I use a drill bit with my fingers and get it all cleared out. Check the hoses also and make sure there is no carbon blocking them.
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Here both the port and line is completely plugged with carbon. There were others plugged as well.
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The Cold Start Injector is held on with two 10 mm bolts. The Throttle Body and Cold Start Injector gaskets usually stay on the Plenum and I just reuse the gaskets. Just be careful cleaning around them so as not to damage and you can reuse the gasket. Here is a picture of a dirty CSI. I just clean it up with a wire tooth brush. It will have a metal line connected to it. Double check when you start your truck up that it is not leaking. This is on place it will want to leak and is under a lot of pressure.
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Here is a picture of the Throttle Position Sensor. You dont want to remove this from the Throttle Body or get it wet with water or chemical cleaners. Just clean around it.
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Old 08-13-2015, 02:21 PM
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Thanks for the great info. As you said, my 3.0 is a bit different, but I worked my way through it.

Ps it isn't a Dorman from Amazon. I found the correct part number and it seems to function.

I removed and cleaned all of the components and still the CEL shines. It looks like perhaps the vsv is the culprit using good old fashion process of elimination OR the dealership misdiagnosed the issue... I'll look for a used (good) vsv this weekend and fingers crossed, it'll resolve the issue.

I appreciate the help
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