I did that test once, and almost killed it, did it again and killed. so it can open. The fact about the carbon maybe true too. when i took it off it look pretty carboned up on the inside of the tube, but not seem out of the ordinary. i might just need to replace the egr valve. probably cheaper than the sensor.....

 

Okay I had that going too. I replaced my EGR did nothing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

With mine, i had a problem with my sensors or wiring.

Okay forgive me if this has already been stated, i didn't feel like reading the whole thread!

I know a guy who gave me a little cap to place over the connection that plugs into the sensor. And after that my CEL hasn't gone off. What this does is tricks the computer to believe it is at the proper temperature so it thinks nothing is wrong!

Apparently, you could also slide the rubber sleeve part on the sensor back, melt the the plastic over the wires and twist them together. This way it works the same as getting that plastic cap. Then you let the plastic sleeve cover where you melted and twisted, and hopefully that solves your problem

Then again i could be wrong, but that is how i fixed my truck.

Good luck, i could probably get pictures tomorrow if you need them. If so PM me!

 

Here are those pictures you asked for! Hope they are useful!

Now this is what solved my problem, don't know if it will solve yours.

This is how it should be if its from California at least!



Take the connections apart:



This is that little cap i was talking about: THIS will probably be the easiest for you to do, just go and find a parting out 4runner or pick up and take this cap.




Or you can do this: I heard this was the same concept as getting the cap:

Here it is normal



Push the sleeve up, i heard you could melt the rubber coating over the wires and twist the wires together and it will be the same concept as the cap, then let the sleve down and it will look stock!



Hope this helps!!

 

so did most of the non-california trucks come with the plug that shorts out the wire? Also, does shorting the wire make the computer think it's at the right temp? How does this sound for a plan? Cut the wires. strip it back a little, twist together and then put a small bit of heat shrink on it and then cover it up with the stock heat shield. how 'bout it?

 

Just because you bought the truck in WA doesn't mean much unless you bought it new. If you bought it used, it is possible that someone from Cali took the truck to WA. Considering most states have laws requiring all factory installed emissions controls to operate as designed and installed, I'm not sure what you can or can't get away with.

 

Heres what you do. Take a 10k ohm resistor and push it into the connector that goes to the temp sensor. Cover it with some electrical tape or heat shrink or something and your code should go away. This will trick the ECU into getting a "good" reading form the sensor.

 

Yes, i think most if not all non-california trucks came with that plug. Shorting the wire makes the computer think its at the right temp, so there should be no more CEL after that. That is if it is your sensor that is bad. If the sensor is currently fine, then it will not change anything.

Yes i was told if you twist the wires together it will provide the same effect as having the cap. Shoot, next time you at a pick n' pull just grab the cap and then you can remove the sensor! One less thing in the engine bay !

 

ok makes sense. Yeah if i get the plug i could just have my dad (hydraulic boat steering salesman, etc.) bring me a plug to plug the hole where the sensor was before. hmmm i like where this is going.

 

If you take the sensor out, there is no need to plug the hole.

 

isn't the sensor screwed into the area where there is exhaust so that it can get a temp reading? if i take it out it would leak exhaust, wouldn't it?

 

No, it just screws into the metal, it doesn't actually go through. I think it just detects the temperature of the metal, not the actual gases!

 

well thats handy! Thanks!

 

Seems I spoke to soon. My CEL came back on. So I've got a question on this whole thing. In the FSM when it talks about testing the EGR system. Page EG2-149 section 5. If I'm not getting any vacuum with the engine warm and rpm's at 3,500. What part does that indicate is bad? The VSV or Vacuum modulator?

Oh and wouldn't tricking the ecu into thinking that it's getting enough recycled gas harm performance and possibly reduce gas mileage? As opposed to fixing it?

 

The VSV sends vacuum to the modulator, the modulator passes it to the EGR. Might be as simple as a clogged vacuum line.