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Which ecu for my truck with not original engine?

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Old 02-25-2018, 10:40 AM
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Which ecu for my truck with not original engine?

Hello, my name is Drew. I have an 89 Toyota pickup reg cab 5 spd 6 cyl dlx model. I've had this truck for 11 years long story but, I am going to bring it back from the dead. It has an engine from a 1990 automatic v6 4Runner. It has the original ecu in it which I believe it is fried.. is there a way to tell which computer I need to match up with the engine? I have no info on the 4Runner.. anyway I love this site and it has helped me countless times in the past.
Old 02-25-2018, 10:47 AM
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Probably easiest is when swapping engine to use sensors from original and original wiring harness. Then if ECU is fried replace it with same year model.

Why do you think ECU is fried?
Old 02-25-2018, 10:53 AM
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Red face

If I read this right your just replacing the ECU??

Unless the Rodents ate the stickers off it should have a Toyota part number on it just get the same one.
Old 02-25-2018, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Drewandhis89Yota
Hello, my name is Drew. I have an 89 Toyota pickup reg cab 5 spd 6 cyl dlx model. I've had this truck for 11 years long story but, I am going to bring it back from the dead. It has an engine from a 1990 automatic v6 4Runner. It has the original ecu in it which I believe it is fried.. is there a way to tell which computer I need to match up with the engine? I have no info on the 4Runner.. anyway I love this site and it has helped me countless times in the past.
check out rockauto toyota year motor then mt transmission. Id stick with the original year off truck ecu but thats my opinion. Dont get an a/t ecu you will have huge issues they are all remanned for years and not that expensive.
Old 02-25-2018, 11:40 AM
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Well number one I am sorry about this crappy post and I do appreciate the replys. It was a while ago when I thought it was the ecu. And I always thought the next time I touch the truck I would start with an ecu. So I got on eBay today to buy an ecu but it says they go by part numbers not only by year. There are like three different part numbers for same years. I believe it is ecu cause it had spark fuel and air the last time I touched it. it just cranks and cranks with no sputter or anything. now that I’m thinking about it it could be crank sensor? (I have some more experience now compared to then) about 8 years ago. but the reason I think it is ecu is because I heard that if you engine swap and use incorrect ecu t could lead to problems. (I did not know this at the time, I heard this years later or I would have held onto the 4Runner ecu)
Old 02-25-2018, 11:45 AM
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I think I’m gonna go with the rock auto idea but still not sure about the numbers from the 4Runner. I am gonna contact the girl I bought the 4 runner off of and see if she can give me the vin
Old 02-25-2018, 11:49 AM
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btw the truck ran for a while after I swapped the engine then died on the highway
Old 02-25-2018, 11:54 AM
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If im correct the crank position sensor is integral in the distributor (I THINK) I do know toyota in these years didnt use a crank sensor persay like other car manufactures did and monitors from distributor. So you dont have no fuel or spark?
Old 02-25-2018, 11:58 AM
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It had fuel and spark for sure
Old 02-25-2018, 12:06 PM
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If you go the rock auto way its under the electrical section not manual transmission section(my bad) I just looked and from dealing with transmissions and ecu's alot in my field my advice is get the ECU for the year of your truck the motor between 89 and 90 aint gonna care sensor wise but first check out the fuel air sensor (MAF) on other cars if it aint working it wont allow fuel or spark kind of like what a crank sensor does on other cars makes and models.. but if you get fuel i'd be looking at igniter or distributor before replacing ECU.
Old 02-25-2018, 12:15 PM
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ok Thank you very much. I have a lot of work ahead of me lol . Wish me luck. Thank you all
Old 02-25-2018, 12:53 PM
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I wouldn't just throw money at an ECU without testing a lot of other things first. Have you done any tests? you say it has spark and fuel, but tell us how you know. Did you try a shot of starting fluid? (fuel at the fuel rail doesn't mean fuel to the cylinder and it doesn't mean you have enough pressure). Did you check your compression and timing? How did you check for spark? (pulling a new spark plug out of your tool box and checking spark doesn't mean the plugs in your motor are any good) Diagnostics are all about proving a theory, or proving parts are good/bad. If you have spark, fuel and air your truck should run, unless you have no/low compression. If you can't find a problem it doesn't hurt to replace wear items so you have known good parts like distributor cap, rotor, plugs. and while you are there check compression, spark and timing.
The reason there are several different ECUs is that there are different engines/transmissions and options. If you are sure you need an ECU, get the part number off of the ECU you wish to replace or call Toyota for help getting the correct part number.
Old 02-25-2018, 01:48 PM
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You said it was running and died on the interstate. So that being said I would do as AK said and do more diagnostic work.

I've had a bad wire in harness going to fuel pump that provided fuel at time but died others. When I checked the harness it had power but no enough to run pump. Took quite awhile to figure out and almost a tank of gas on the garage floor.

Otherwise you are likely to throw money and parts at it but not fix problems.
Old 02-25-2018, 02:10 PM
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Well back 8 years ago it had compression, I used to have a compression tester but a lot of my tools were stolen. Long story. I tested a lot of stuff back then and was stumped for a long time before I gave up on it and it sat ever since. Then a few years ago I heard that if you swap engines and don’t use the correct ecu, it could fry it. So I thought that must be it. I am now determined to get it back on the road and in the woods. Ecu is only $34 on eBay so I figured might as well but, I have lots of work ahead of me anyway so no reason to jump the gun. I will do tests to be sure before I throw money at it. I need to do a compression test on my Nissan Sentra anyway so I will pick one up. Thanks
Old 02-25-2018, 02:21 PM
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Also I should add more story. one day the afm died, so a friend of mine had an 88 Supra lying around and I took the afm out of that and threw it in. I know bad idea. It never really ran right and I was constantly having to tweak it. Back then I read all the threads on this and tried my best but it just never was right. So after a few days of that and looking on here to see if it was possible to make it run good with it, I gave up on that and was on my way to the junkyard to get a replacement afm. That is when the truck died. I got it towed home, I went to the junkyard to get proper afm, installed it, and nothing. Just crank crank. I tested the afm, everything was ok with that. That was 8 years ago..
Old 02-25-2018, 02:22 PM
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That is another reason I think ecu is fried, cause the Supra afm killed it lol
Old 02-25-2018, 02:23 PM
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For $34 you are likely to get one that doesn't work. Most of the time if you burn out a control module it is right away, not a slow burn. and I doubt putting in an engine from a 90 into your 89 would burn it out anyway. same engine, no problem. When doing a used engine install I generally take all of the sensors and such (sometimes the entire intake) off of the original and install it on the donor so I know I have all of the correct components. NOTHING gets thrown away or sold until the job is done! Case in point, I took a 1999 Honda CRV that hit a moose and pulled the complete low mileage drivetrain out and put it in a high mileage/same year body, I found out that the EX and LX had different alternators, go figure.
Old 02-25-2018, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Drewandhis89Yota
Also I should add more story. one day the afm died, so a friend of mine had an 88 Supra lying around and I took the afm out of that and threw it in. I know bad idea. It never really ran right and I was constantly having to tweak it. Back then I read all the threads on this and tried my best but it just never was right. So after a few days of that and looking on here to see if it was possible to make it run good with it, I gave up on that and was on my way to the junkyard to get a replacement afm. That is when the truck died. I got it towed home, I went to the junkyard to get proper afm, installed it, and nothing. Just crank crank. I tested the afm, everything was ok with that. That was 8 years ago..
AHA! now we get the rest of the story!
Old 02-25-2018, 02:43 PM
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So ecu sounds more correct now?
Old 02-25-2018, 02:44 PM
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use direct match for original truck?


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