my 1990 base model, dx, 4 speed no mirror rust box has generated an alarming capacity to shut the f*** off at stop signs. now mind you, about a week ago, the truck stopped idling down after heating up. it just idled high continuously.
so,after thinking about that, it developed a new and annoying issue. i had rough acceleration initially (it sat for 4 years, so ,yah) and coupled with the stop and die problem, i figured it was time for a new fuel filter. once installed, truck starts up better in hot weather, no having to pump the pedal. awesome, i think, i may have fixed it. well 20 mins later at an intersection where i had to brake to a stop, with the clutch in, it stumbled out/off. push clutch in, turn key, vroom. so two things i am thinking:

the carb will not idle down, so when you slow down, instead of dropping rpm's, it stalls. so whatever determines that action should be cleaned/replaced.

ORRRRRRRR

i have a vaccum leak and the action of pressing on the pedal hard forces it into a stall because , well, theres a vaccum leak.

funny thing was is this all started after spraying the hoses and linkages with PB blaster and carb cleaner. immediately after.


so if anyone can reccomend directions to take this, I'm definately listening.

(i may go purchase all available sizes of vaccum hose and replace those first)

 

90 with a carb? sure about that? Not that it's impossible, just not likely.
PB Blaster and carb cleaner shouldn't damage the hoses immediately after spraying. Maybe you bumped one loose? I'd look at the choke, making sure it closes when cold and pulls off once warmed up, and its linkage, double checking it's not sticking. I have seen carb cleaner cause linkage to stick if all the dirt / dust isn't cleaned off.

However, if you don't have a carb and have efi instead, the cleaners could damage the throttle position sensor and cause similar issues.

 

nope, its a 90, with a carb. lucky me. im going to, i suppose, check everything, float level, hoses, EGR, the nines. but i was hoping there was a common hiccup w/these.

 

i had a truck do that actually, but if its a vacuume leak it would do it when its idleing too, if not and it only does it when your actually coming to a hard stop that leans towards an F-ed up float, you can get a carb rebuild kit for like 30 bucks and rebuild her, not actually as hard as it sounds...

 

if it sat for 4 years i'd start with the carburator. buy a new one or rebuild the one you got and see what happens