JohnE

Hi all, embarrasing first post here. Helping (doing for) my son replace the clutch on his 93 2wd base pickup (that I have owned since new). Yesterday I completed the clutch replacement, the entire problem started because the truck wouldn't go in gear, and after much checking and reading on your forum, knew the trouble was either the throwout bearing or release fork. Told him we were not dropping the transmission and then not do the whole clutch replacement.
Found the release fork worn through @ the pivot and was cracked. Anyway... wrapping up last night, I cannot get the driveshaft to go on far enough to re-attach the flange at the rear! It seems to be bottoming out, but I cannot see anything inside the yoke or inside at the transmission output shaft that should be stopping it. It looks like it should easily go in far enough
Hoping someone has experienced this and can tell me what in the world I am overlooking. Thanks in advance for any advice. John

bigt

hrmm never hd that issue most times its hrd to get the drive shafts to compress to get them off!!!
can you even get it on so you can turn the nuts??
how short are we talking??
i almost though you was using a front drive shaft in the rear but your a 2wd hrmmmmm


WELCOME YOTA TECH!!!

JohnE

Thanks BigT,
I'm sorry if I didn't describe it well.
It acts like it is too long! I cannot get the splined yoke in far enough to put the flange on the rear. I keep looking at it thinking "this should go right in.PS. Thanks for the welcome!

bigt

oooo yeah ive had that probelm too when i did my clutch!!!
i have to use a crow bar and a second set of hands to squush it into place!!!
also had it hooked int he rear diff and used my feet too im sure of it hahaha like a monkey!

JohnE

Thanks for the advice bigt. I guess I'll go get a little more aggressive. It is easy to still spin the driveshaft after the splined yoke (is that the right term?) is on the output shaft, but when it "bottoms out" it gets difficult or won't turn. It is also "stuck" and very difficult to remove when I have put it in as far as it will go. I'm going now to dig back in, I'll check back. Thanks again for your input/advice!

wheatus

you can try and jack the rear of the truck up so that the rear suspension is in full droop and that should give you enough room to get the driveshaft back in.

JohnE

Thanks wheatus, I already had the back on jackstands, the frame. So the suspension is "dropped". Just came in from popping off the "splash shield" around the output shaft so I can get a better look at how far the yoke is actually going over the output shaft. I came back in because it just started raining, and of course I'm in the driveway!
If it doesn't stop soon, I'll have to just "tough it out"!
Thanks for the heads up!

bigt

haha its raining too!!!!
i was cutting out the rockers in my new suzuki long wheel basedproject.. dont wanna continue in the garage because of my other cars sakes lol

hope you get her back together good.. its real satifiying doing a clutch!

JohnE

With the splash shield off, I can see the yoke goes on a few inches. Then it "bottoms out"??? But, there is nothing external that is stopping it. I re-inspected inside the yoke and also looked into the transmission as best I could, and can see no reason for it stopping. Plenty of room!
Last night we got fairly physical with it. Made sure we were on the splined output properly, then "slammed it"! It went no further, just got stuck on ALOT harder. I have kept the yoke all clean when I first pulled it with a ziplock bag and some tape, have continued to keep everything clean. I'm confident it is not any "dirt resistance".
I'm hesitant to pry or use any more force unless this is common and "how it is done". I feel like something will break if more force is used.

Any more thoughts/suggestions? As of now, the truck is back up on 4 jackstands (needed more room) all placed on the "side rails". I put the splash shield back on because there was nothing anywhere close there to stop the driveshaft, and if I get the driveshaft in, I don't want to have to take it back out to put the shield back on. I feel like I'm going crazy! This thing should slide right in/on. Thanks, John

Flash319

We are all just monkeys!
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/172809...e_all_monkeys/

mt_goat

It's probably got too much grease in the slip joint. You could try to release the pressure by pushing in the ball on the grease zerk. Or might have to take the slip joint apart and remove some of the grease, just be sure to mark the phasing first so you get it back in the correct phasing. Might be able to remove the zerk too, I don't know for sure. Pushing in on the ball worked for me.

JohnE

Well we're finally done. We discovered (talked about the possibility last night ) that we were fighting pressure from the splined yoke, sealing itself on the output shaft (mt goat was on the right track!). There was nowhere for the air to escape. There are no zerk fittings or "pressure relief valves" on this 2WD model. We decided to try again, very slowly with continuous "wiggling", keeping the trapped air pressure in mind. It only went as far as last night again, but then we left it there, rested, and tried once more, wiggling/turning with slow steady pressure and it finally went all the way in (in fact, we had to come back out an inch to bolt up!). What a relief! Anyway, test drove and all is wonderful. Shifts like new! Thank you all for your input/comments. We have 230k miles, recently had done the timing chain with upgraded metal guides, head gasket, intake and exhaust gaskets and full maintenance of ignition system and cooling system w/ belts, hoses, wires, plugs, distrib. and rotor. Also replaced cat back exhaust. Hopefully we are good to go for another 100k. Although I think the shocks may be due!
Brakes are pretty good, although I wouldn't be surprised if clutch and brake hydraulics need attn soon! Thanks again all. Nice forum!