Dreaded oil cooler leak
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Dreaded oil cooler leak
Finally figured out the lost quart between oil changes. Appears to be coming from the oil cooler. If I understand from other posts, these are the seals I need:
90301-61003 O ring between cooler and block, like oil filter gasket.
90210-22001 washer gasket between bolt head and outside of cooler
15785-35010 O ring for bolt between inside cooler and block
Are these right? My FSM only shows first two. Anyone know for sure. See avatar for vehicle spec's.
90301-61003 O ring between cooler and block, like oil filter gasket.
90210-22001 washer gasket between bolt head and outside of cooler
15785-35010 O ring for bolt between inside cooler and block
Are these right? My FSM only shows first two. Anyone know for sure. See avatar for vehicle spec's.
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I just did mine and checked my part #'s and they are the same as yours. I got confused though because they gave me two o-rings for the bolt and I had a hell of a time trying to figure out where it went. I finally figured out that it was extra.
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Bolt size?
What size bolt head is this, 22 or 23MM?
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There is a plastic washer with rubber center that goes on the bolt between the bolt head and cooler. I don't remember which part# of the 3 it was, but you might as well replace it while you are in there. There are differences between the 2wd and 4wd oil coolers, so make sure they are looking at the correct one. The part #'s that you posted were the ones that I got and fixed my oil cooler leak with.
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Only two for me
I didn't get the plastic one you mentioned. Only showed the 90301-61003 which is the larger one and other one is 15785-35010 which is a smaller flat quarter size rubber washer. That one I think he said goes on bolt between block and cooler. Man I hate to get that apart and find out I need something else. You remember bolt head size, call it a bolt, but think it's called a pressure regulator. Looks like a banjo bolt to me.
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I just wedged my hand up in there to check and it is 24mm. If you look here:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...19oilcoole.pdf
It shows the big oring which has a flat inner surface, and then it shows two gaskets on either side of the cooler. When you pull the cooler off there is the big oring/gasket and then there is a oring on the bolt side of the cooler where the bolt slides through. Then stuck to the head of the bolt will be a plastic washer w/ a rubber gasket inner. It was stuck to the head of the bolt, so at first I didn't think there was one there. It sucked too because the way the parts were bagged, I couldn't tell which part # corresponded to which piece. I just matched up what I was taking off my cooler.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...19oilcoole.pdf
It shows the big oring which has a flat inner surface, and then it shows two gaskets on either side of the cooler. When you pull the cooler off there is the big oring/gasket and then there is a oring on the bolt side of the cooler where the bolt slides through. Then stuck to the head of the bolt will be a plastic washer w/ a rubber gasket inner. It was stuck to the head of the bolt, so at first I didn't think there was one there. It sucked too because the way the parts were bagged, I couldn't tell which part # corresponded to which piece. I just matched up what I was taking off my cooler.
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OK, maybe missing something
Thanks for checking that bolt size for me. Can't get that link you put in, but what you say about the gasket for the head makes sense, but I don't have that one. I have the gasket you describe as rubber with a lip on it and a quarter size flat rubber washer (I wouldn't really call it an O ring) and not the one for the head it sounds like. I'll make another trip by on the way home from work and check that again.
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Missing one
I think you are right and I'm missing the head washer. I'll find out tomorrow and let you know. That bolt is a relief valve, seen that in FSM. FSM shows washer on both ends of bolt and doesn't show round O ring with lip, probably because it's normally considered part of oil cooler.
OK, another trip later after looking at new head washer, there must be a difference in my year. The washer he showed me was just that, a washer. No plastic, no rubber, just metal. At this point I can't argue with the parts person. Proof in the pudding will be once I remove mine and see the actual parts on it are like they showed me. If they turn out different, then not only will I be stuck, but I will be first in line at the parts counter the next day.
Thanks Slosurfer for the info on parts and bolt head size. Finally go into the site you posted.
OK, another trip later after looking at new head washer, there must be a difference in my year. The washer he showed me was just that, a washer. No plastic, no rubber, just metal. At this point I can't argue with the parts person. Proof in the pudding will be once I remove mine and see the actual parts on it are like they showed me. If they turn out different, then not only will I be stuck, but I will be first in line at the parts counter the next day.
Thanks Slosurfer for the info on parts and bolt head size. Finally go into the site you posted.
Last edited by JEBSR5; 01-09-2007 at 01:37 PM.
#12
I just did mine today there is a washer metal with rubber in the middle that goes at the head of the big middle bolt "valve". On the block side of the cooler a all rubber washer replaces the old rubber washer that goes in the middle of cooler engine block side and last a big rubber ring gasket that goes one the same side.
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Snag!
I just did mine today there is a washer metal with rubber in the middle that goes at the head of the big middle bolt "valve". On the block side of the cooler a all rubber washer replaces the old rubber washer that goes in the middle of cooler engine block side and last a big rubber ring gasket that goes one the same side.
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Update::bigclap:
All done, what a PITA! For those needing to do this, here is what I went through:
1. First trip to dealer gave me two seals, said he didn't have head bolt one and it was just a washer and was not a seal.
2. Second trip to dealer, same guy. Asked to see the head bolt washer, he looked it up and came out with one. Looked like a plain washer, no seal. Didn't get it, why do I need a washer?
3. Thanks to everyone here, third trip to dealer. Totally different parts person. He looked up the head bolt washer, brought it out and it was a washer with rubber inner seal, got it. Don't know what it was last parts guy showed me.
Facts: Rely on your YotaTech people, get what they recommend.
90 model 4 runner has a 30MM head bolt, evidently later ones have a 24MM as per Slosurfer (Thanks for your help man, he was willing to go through the trouble to at least get me a size for the head bolt). I had a 24MM and a 32MM and made trip to get correct 30MM socket.
Parts needed: 90210-22001 is the head bolt washer with rubber inner and mine was really stuck to the cooler. 90301-61003 is the larger O ring type between cooler and block and has a thin rubber lip to put under tabs on cooler to hold in place. 15785-35010 is the flat rubber washer between bolt and block, this one you can miss if you have not done this before. It fits under a lip of the cooler and you can squeeze and wiggle it in after removing old one. Look carefully on block side of cooler where bolt comes through and you will see washer.
Fact: This was a real PITA on the 90 with steel inner fender and barely room to squeeze big hands of mine through. If you had a lift, this would be much easier than doing in your driveway. I could barely get to clamp on water line on top and removed it from block, pulled cooler with other line attached down to front skid plate (skid plate was removed), then removed other cooler line. Clip was easier to get to there pulled down. Once seals were replaced, reversed order, filled with oil and 2 gallons antifreeze. I also had to remove 3 bolts to heat shield to get to cooler bolt through fender well and remove tire. Torqued 33ft/lbs per FSM for 90 model. Have not put shield back on yet until I make sure no leaks.
Thanks everyone, another job done!
All done, what a PITA! For those needing to do this, here is what I went through:
1. First trip to dealer gave me two seals, said he didn't have head bolt one and it was just a washer and was not a seal.
2. Second trip to dealer, same guy. Asked to see the head bolt washer, he looked it up and came out with one. Looked like a plain washer, no seal. Didn't get it, why do I need a washer?
3. Thanks to everyone here, third trip to dealer. Totally different parts person. He looked up the head bolt washer, brought it out and it was a washer with rubber inner seal, got it. Don't know what it was last parts guy showed me.
Facts: Rely on your YotaTech people, get what they recommend.
90 model 4 runner has a 30MM head bolt, evidently later ones have a 24MM as per Slosurfer (Thanks for your help man, he was willing to go through the trouble to at least get me a size for the head bolt). I had a 24MM and a 32MM and made trip to get correct 30MM socket.
Parts needed: 90210-22001 is the head bolt washer with rubber inner and mine was really stuck to the cooler. 90301-61003 is the larger O ring type between cooler and block and has a thin rubber lip to put under tabs on cooler to hold in place. 15785-35010 is the flat rubber washer between bolt and block, this one you can miss if you have not done this before. It fits under a lip of the cooler and you can squeeze and wiggle it in after removing old one. Look carefully on block side of cooler where bolt comes through and you will see washer.
Fact: This was a real PITA on the 90 with steel inner fender and barely room to squeeze big hands of mine through. If you had a lift, this would be much easier than doing in your driveway. I could barely get to clamp on water line on top and removed it from block, pulled cooler with other line attached down to front skid plate (skid plate was removed), then removed other cooler line. Clip was easier to get to there pulled down. Once seals were replaced, reversed order, filled with oil and 2 gallons antifreeze. I also had to remove 3 bolts to heat shield to get to cooler bolt through fender well and remove tire. Torqued 33ft/lbs per FSM for 90 model. Have not put shield back on yet until I make sure no leaks.
Thanks everyone, another job done!
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NIce, they are a real PITA but felt good not to pay someone for it. A body lift would have definately helped on mine. That is weird that the bolt head is a different size. Must be one of the changes made in '93. I couldn't get my heat sheild all the way out. I was just able to move it out of the way. I also could not get to the upper clamp, so I changed everything out with the coolant hoses still attached.
Last edited by slosurfer; 01-14-2007 at 01:41 PM.
#18
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Update::bigclap:
All done, what a PITA! For those needing to do this, here is what I went through:
1. First trip to dealer gave me two seals, said he didn't have head bolt one and it was just a washer and was not a seal.
2. Second trip to dealer, same guy. Asked to see the head bolt washer, he looked it up and came out with one. Looked like a plain washer, no seal. Didn't get it, why do I need a washer?
3. Thanks to everyone here, third trip to dealer. Totally different parts person. He looked up the head bolt washer, brought it out and it was a washer with rubber inner seal, got it. Don't know what it was last parts guy showed me.
Facts: Rely on your YotaTech people, get what they recommend.
90 model 4 runner has a 30MM head bolt, evidently later ones have a 24MM as per Slosurfer (Thanks for your help man, he was willing to go through the trouble to at least get me a size for the head bolt). I had a 24MM and a 32MM and made trip to get correct 30MM socket.
Parts needed: 90210-22001 is the head bolt washer with rubber inner and mine was really stuck to the cooler. 90301-61003 is the larger O ring type between cooler and block and has a thin rubber lip to put under tabs on cooler to hold in place. 15785-35010 is the flat rubber washer between bolt and block, this one you can miss if you have not done this before. It fits under a lip of the cooler and you can squeeze and wiggle it in after removing old one. Look carefully on block side of cooler where bolt comes through and you will see washer.
Fact: This was a real PITA on the 90 with steel inner fender and barely room to squeeze big hands of mine through. If you had a lift, this would be much easier than doing in your driveway. I could barely get to clamp on water line on top and removed it from block, pulled cooler with other line attached down to front skid plate (skid plate was removed), then removed other cooler line. Clip was easier to get to there pulled down. Once seals were replaced, reversed order, filled with oil and 2 gallons antifreeze. I also had to remove 3 bolts to heat shield to get to cooler bolt through fender well and remove tire. Torqued 33ft/lbs per FSM for 90 model. Have not put shield back on yet until I make sure no leaks.
Thanks everyone, another job done!
All done, what a PITA! For those needing to do this, here is what I went through:
1. First trip to dealer gave me two seals, said he didn't have head bolt one and it was just a washer and was not a seal.
2. Second trip to dealer, same guy. Asked to see the head bolt washer, he looked it up and came out with one. Looked like a plain washer, no seal. Didn't get it, why do I need a washer?
3. Thanks to everyone here, third trip to dealer. Totally different parts person. He looked up the head bolt washer, brought it out and it was a washer with rubber inner seal, got it. Don't know what it was last parts guy showed me.
Facts: Rely on your YotaTech people, get what they recommend.
90 model 4 runner has a 30MM head bolt, evidently later ones have a 24MM as per Slosurfer (Thanks for your help man, he was willing to go through the trouble to at least get me a size for the head bolt). I had a 24MM and a 32MM and made trip to get correct 30MM socket.
Parts needed: 90210-22001 is the head bolt washer with rubber inner and mine was really stuck to the cooler. 90301-61003 is the larger O ring type between cooler and block and has a thin rubber lip to put under tabs on cooler to hold in place. 15785-35010 is the flat rubber washer between bolt and block, this one you can miss if you have not done this before. It fits under a lip of the cooler and you can squeeze and wiggle it in after removing old one. Look carefully on block side of cooler where bolt comes through and you will see washer.
Fact: This was a real PITA on the 90 with steel inner fender and barely room to squeeze big hands of mine through. If you had a lift, this would be much easier than doing in your driveway. I could barely get to clamp on water line on top and removed it from block, pulled cooler with other line attached down to front skid plate (skid plate was removed), then removed other cooler line. Clip was easier to get to there pulled down. Once seals were replaced, reversed order, filled with oil and 2 gallons antifreeze. I also had to remove 3 bolts to heat shield to get to cooler bolt through fender well and remove tire. Torqued 33ft/lbs per FSM for 90 model. Have not put shield back on yet until I make sure no leaks.
Thanks everyone, another job done!
Does this look like the right kit?
It says it fits:
1990-2003 Honda Accord
1992-1996 Toyota Camry 4cyl
1992-1996 Toyota Camry 6cyl
1988-1995 Toyota Supra
If I'm not mistaken, the 6cyl Camry is the same block as my 3.0. But the fact that it says nothing about trucks has me nervous.
My picture seems to fit the quoted description, but it looks quite a bit different than this:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/119oilcoole.pdf
Last edited by jason191918; 09-16-2008 at 12:35 PM.
#20
2012 Toyota Tundra oil cooler leak
After about 15 years of wanting a tundra I finally got one. Today, a week later it is in service for an oil cooler leak. The truck has around 500 miles on it. I was looking under the truck for the oil filter when I noticed a small drip of engine oil on the steering gear box. I cleaned it and checked the next morning and it came back. I know Toyotas are good, hopefully we won't have any more issues for a while.