downey headers and the damn trans dipstick
05-10-2006, 08:41 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
downey headers and the damn trans dipstick
ok peeps. those with downey headers and an auto post up.
were the hell does this MFing trans dipstick tube route!
My lower piece got tweeked in the removeal/install and the downey instructions hint at haveing to tweek something to get it to work but i cant for the life of me figure out what needs to go were!
pics would help obiously
oh and ive been fighting my the emisson controls (EGR/reed valve) mount for the past 4 days.
what a PITA to do something "right"
Ill say this for shure. If i put headers on another 3vze. they will be the NWOR ones. enough of this downey crap.
were the hell does this MFing trans dipstick tube route!
My lower piece got tweeked in the removeal/install and the downey instructions hint at haveing to tweek something to get it to work but i cant for the life of me figure out what needs to go were!
pics would help obiously
oh and ive been fighting my the emisson controls (EGR/reed valve) mount for the past 4 days.
what a PITA to do something "right"
Ill say this for shure. If i put headers on another 3vze. they will be the NWOR ones. enough of this downey crap.
05-10-2006, 09:42 AM
#2
Registered User
I would help, but I had a manual. Haven't seen a write-up concerning the autos yet. Give us some pics of what you need to do and we'll toss out some ideas.
What's wrong the the EGR/Reed valves?
What's wrong the the EGR/Reed valves?
05-10-2006, 09:55 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
well the reed valve they give you a little 5" long piece of copper tube and say "connect both ends" dont worry about the rest... you know the attach it back to the head part.
so it kinda floats out there in never never land connected by a couple of compression fittings. so you have 2 choices. fab up a new hose thingie, or fab up some sort of extendo bracket thingie off the head if your not happy just letting it hang out in space...
the EGR valve isnt so bad, they now supply you with a piece of flex tube stuff to make the connection. and had i used it for that, it would have been easy.
as it is, i decided to cut the end off the flex tube, cut the huge flare you need for the reed valve off the end of the copper tube and braise the 2 together. then you find that the snuffleupagous hose is 2 long so i cut a 1" section out of it and brased the 2 halfs back together.
that was AFTER i cut the existing snuffleupagous hose on the EGR valve and then spent an hr heating it up and rebending that into the shape you need.
Ill post some pics tonight.
if you go NWOR they are smart enough to weld the proper "nipples" on the headers in the right places so you can just bolt the existing EGR/reed back up with out ANY modifications needed.
so it kinda floats out there in never never land connected by a couple of compression fittings. so you have 2 choices. fab up a new hose thingie, or fab up some sort of extendo bracket thingie off the head if your not happy just letting it hang out in space...
the EGR valve isnt so bad, they now supply you with a piece of flex tube stuff to make the connection. and had i used it for that, it would have been easy.
as it is, i decided to cut the end off the flex tube, cut the huge flare you need for the reed valve off the end of the copper tube and braise the 2 together. then you find that the snuffleupagous hose is 2 long so i cut a 1" section out of it and brased the 2 halfs back together.
that was AFTER i cut the existing snuffleupagous hose on the EGR valve and then spent an hr heating it up and rebending that into the shape you need.
Ill post some pics tonight.
if you go NWOR they are smart enough to weld the proper "nipples" on the headers in the right places so you can just bolt the existing EGR/reed back up with out ANY modifications needed.
Last edited by snap-on; 05-10-2006 at 09:56 AM.
05-13-2006, 07:18 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
ok so fresh prespective and good daylight is a much better indication of how you should route it.
yes you have to tweek the dipstick tube.
I took my key of what it should be from the one mount hole i could find on the side of the trans.
(im missing a decent overall shot and now all the other crap is in the way... ill see what i can do about that)
i found it routed best comming up from underneet the #1 cylinder pipe. NOT threated through the headers like i orginally thought. Unfortantly you have nothing to mount the other tab to on the tube so it kinda hangs out in space even after you get the lower tab mounted.
As for how i tweeked the tube, I took the bend out of the center and tweeked the end slightly. This is about the best way i could think to show it.
I was trying to show how it is nearly straight which it needs to be. If there is to much curve to it it hits the bottom of the header on the #3 down pipe.
As for what i did with the EGR/Reed valve. its a mess but should work. I wish downey would find a better solution for the reed valve.
a few thoughts on the whole debacle
1) Being able to lift the upper intake up 1-2" to facilitate installation is critical. It dont see how you could get around not doing it with out even more headache.
2) start with the reed valve, dont forget to attch the black hose under the intake. I did this first. Then connected and tightend down the the 2 connections. then muscled it in to place on the head and bolted it down.
3)I tried lineing things up before starting the lower nut on the headers, but couldnt get it lined up perfect to start the threads. So i put the compression ring and nut on then pushed the hose down into the hole.
I picked up a set of long reach 7-8" needle nose pliers from costco. (came in a pack with like 5 various shapes/bends etc) i couldnt have done the job with out them. They are invalueable for reaching in and around things for putting on the spring loaded hose clamps toyota uses.
yes you have to tweek the dipstick tube.
I took my key of what it should be from the one mount hole i could find on the side of the trans.
(im missing a decent overall shot and now all the other crap is in the way... ill see what i can do about that)
i found it routed best comming up from underneet the #1 cylinder pipe. NOT threated through the headers like i orginally thought. Unfortantly you have nothing to mount the other tab to on the tube so it kinda hangs out in space even after you get the lower tab mounted.
As for how i tweeked the tube, I took the bend out of the center and tweeked the end slightly. This is about the best way i could think to show it.
I was trying to show how it is nearly straight which it needs to be. If there is to much curve to it it hits the bottom of the header on the #3 down pipe.
As for what i did with the EGR/Reed valve. its a mess but should work. I wish downey would find a better solution for the reed valve.
a few thoughts on the whole debacle
1) Being able to lift the upper intake up 1-2" to facilitate installation is critical. It dont see how you could get around not doing it with out even more headache.
2) start with the reed valve, dont forget to attch the black hose under the intake. I did this first. Then connected and tightend down the the 2 connections. then muscled it in to place on the head and bolted it down.
3)I tried lineing things up before starting the lower nut on the headers, but couldnt get it lined up perfect to start the threads. So i put the compression ring and nut on then pushed the hose down into the hole.
I picked up a set of long reach 7-8" needle nose pliers from costco. (came in a pack with like 5 various shapes/bends etc) i couldnt have done the job with out them. They are invalueable for reaching in and around things for putting on the spring loaded hose clamps toyota uses.
05-14-2006, 04:30 AM
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Wow, that looks like it was a lot of work to get in there. Any CEL's? How do you like the power now? What gasket did you use? Did you replace the studs when you did yours? Thanks for all the pics 
05-14-2006, 06:17 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
unfortuntly it wouldnt start for me yesterday evening. batery issues. Im keeping my fingers crossed for this morning.
gaskets? for header gaskets i cut the flanges (you can see in last pic) and used the gasket downey sent with the headers. I also used the stock studs as i felt that was a better solution when mounting the headers. All you have to do is fight the headers onto the studs and your done, no wrestleing them in place while trying to line up bolt holes. when the shop put my NWOR headers on my truck they used the stock studs and i have had not a single problem with them in over 5 years.
As for gaskets on the rest of the motor (i rebuilt) i used a master gasket kit from engbldr. I was happy with what was included.
gaskets? for header gaskets i cut the flanges (you can see in last pic) and used the gasket downey sent with the headers. I also used the stock studs as i felt that was a better solution when mounting the headers. All you have to do is fight the headers onto the studs and your done, no wrestleing them in place while trying to line up bolt holes. when the shop put my NWOR headers on my truck they used the stock studs and i have had not a single problem with them in over 5 years.
As for gaskets on the rest of the motor (i rebuilt) i used a master gasket kit from engbldr. I was happy with what was included.
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05-28-2006, 05:08 PM
#8
Registered User
Originally Posted by snap-on
unfortuntly it wouldnt start for me yesterday evening. batery issues. Im keeping my fingers crossed for this morning.
gaskets? for header gaskets i cut the flanges (you can see in last pic) and used the gasket downey sent with the headers. I also used the stock studs as i felt that was a better solution when mounting the headers. All you have to do is fight the headers onto the studs and your done, no wrestleing them in place while trying to line up bolt holes. when the shop put my NWOR headers on my truck they used the stock studs and i have had not a single problem with them in over 5 years.
As for gaskets on the rest of the motor (i rebuilt) i used a master gasket kit from engbldr. I was happy with what was included.
gaskets? for header gaskets i cut the flanges (you can see in last pic) and used the gasket downey sent with the headers. I also used the stock studs as i felt that was a better solution when mounting the headers. All you have to do is fight the headers onto the studs and your done, no wrestleing them in place while trying to line up bolt holes. when the shop put my NWOR headers on my truck they used the stock studs and i have had not a single problem with them in over 5 years.
As for gaskets on the rest of the motor (i rebuilt) i used a master gasket kit from engbldr. I was happy with what was included.
05-29-2006, 02:03 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
Im going to go with a set of NWOR headers for my 3vze when I pull the heads...i remember reading somewhere that people had the best success with cutting the flanges that connect each header tube? According to NWOR they dont need gaskets. What has been your experience with NWOR?
I did not put the set of NWOR on that are on my truck. THe shop that did that engine did. They did not cut flanges (but did on my downey)and thye used what looks to be stock gaskets with the intergrated heat sheild thingies. I have had not a single problem with them sealing in the past 5 or so years.
I do have a EGR code that has been a nemisis.
I had no problems dealing with NWOR but i got my headers back in 00/01 or so, things may have changed in that time i dont know.
The starter is a ROYAL PITA to have to remove/install but can be done on both styles.
05-29-2006, 02:14 PM
#12
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Location: S.F Bay Area, Currently in TX
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I, installed Downey's on my 3.0 w/rebuilt engine. The starter looks like it's in a blackhole since it's completely hidden by the headers and I'm not looking forward to replacing it. Did your headers make contact with the starter, mine are resting on it but I, wrapped the headers so hopefully the starter won't fail due to the heat.
06-25-2006, 07:02 AM
#13
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Thread Starter
no my starter doesnt touch the headers and about 2 weeks after i got everything back together the starter i had put on the truck died 
so then i got to spend an hr fighting the starter out. Yes you can get the starter out, but i had to take the motor mounts loose and jack the engine up an inch or so as i neeeded just that much clearnance to get it out.
going back in was much easyer.
so then i got to spend an hr fighting the starter out. Yes you can get the starter out, but i had to take the motor mounts loose and jack the engine up an inch or so as i neeeded just that much clearnance to get it out.going back in was much easyer.
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