downey dual shock kit w/ bilstein 5150????
#1
downey dual shock kit w/ bilstein 5150????
I was going to order the downey dual shock set up and was seeing if anyone has used the bilsteins 5150's on that set up, i need the part # for the shocks-thanks
#3
i really dont see the need. shocks are used to control unsprung weight.
toyota axles and the IFS just isnt heavy enough to justify mulitipul shocks IMHO.
(if you were running heavy fullsize stuff it might be a bit diffrent)
toyota axles and the IFS just isnt heavy enough to justify mulitipul shocks IMHO.
(if you were running heavy fullsize stuff it might be a bit diffrent)
#7
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Between a rock and a hard place, AZ
I think that Snap-on's right... A properly valved shock would remove the need for multiple shocks. That said, I have seen dual shock setups on IFS rigs. I don't know if they were Downey or not. Did you try calling Downey and asking if it would be a good idea for what you want to do with your truck? They might be able to give you a clearer answer...
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#8
most people run a bypass and a regular threaded body shock for the desert. i would just run one properly valved shock, if you wanted to you could run two my 85 ran two ranchos, till the frame cracked. but mostly double shock setups are used to separate heat between the two so they dont wear as quickly. i would say run the bilstiens, real good shocks, try one on each side, then go with another if you feel the need.
#10
dont get me wrong i would love to run a nice JD fab set up with coilovers but that would cost more than i paid for both my yota's, i just need a little something better than stock
#11
If you want something better and stronger than stock for the desert here is my advise: First and formost take off the BJ spacers! After all height is not the goal but wheel travel and strenght is. You want a low center of gravity for stability at high speeds. Take out the front differential and axles (if you don't use 4WD). Get the Downey low profile snubbers and bumpstops. Upgrade to V6 torsion bars and sockets because the diameter of the torsion bar is the same but the splines on the upper arm and socket are a lot bigger for strenght, they are just bolt on, a junk yard is your best bet. Get Bilsteins and Sway Away torsion bars and crank them up as much as you want. It'll ride 10x better than stock and with the lower profile bump stops you can gain a little more travel. That is probably wour best bet if you can't afford an LT kit. You can get all that stuff for like $250.
#12
^^ thanks for the info, but i need the 4x4 where i live (4-6ft of snow in the winter) i'm going for it with the billys, i'll have to keep my eye out for a cheap toy 2wd for a desert only truck-
#14
#15
Back from the dead!
I found this on a search.
I HAVE the Downey dual IFS hoop.
Its "designed" (I use that term loosely) to put TWO shocks per side on an otherwise stock IFS setup.
1) you need to trim the inner metal fender well
2) the oil filter access panel gets tossed
3) changing the oil filer is now a PITA
4) you CUT OFF the OEM shock tower top.
5) you CUT OFF the OEM brake flex line tab ont he frame
The forward end of the hoop fits int an existing (but square) frame hole with a metal spacer (could have been better designed - albiet it would cost more for that machining)
The middle bolts to the TOP of the IFS Upper A arme "spindle/axle" thingie
The back end bolts to the lower control arm compression subber bracket.
There is a bolt on tab for the brake line - it makes a stock brake line a smidge "tight".
It uses Bilstien shocks - part numbers USED to be listed in the Downey catalog. I'll dig up part numbers when I remember.
As far as I can recall - these were 8" travel shocks for a 70s era Land Cruiser - probably they were around the Downey warehouse when the kit was designed.
I got the kit circa 1990 and used Doestch Tech shocks for about 2 years (60K). Those shocks got trashed quicky
Also the shocks mounted to the lower A arm hanging the second shock FORWARD of the OEM shock. Leverage quickly busted off the forward tab and thus.. the shocks were held on in single shear with a loos fit bolt - well it was sacary.
There is a "weld on" tab to add a "third" tab forward of the OEM shock tab.
If you dont buy this tab when you install the dual shocks - you will soon enough.
The shocks are mounted with the can side DOWN.
There is a REASON for this.
There is NOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE in the OEM upper A arm to fit everything....
So
The shock is set so that the CANS dont come up too far - but if you tried to mount the cans up top - the body of the can wont clear the corner of the frame bracket that holds the Upper A arm in place. Custom work could be done to push in the corner of the bracket - alot of work for little gain...
The shocks are NOT mounted parallel to each other.
The limiting factor is the the steering linkage.
If the forward shock were moved the 1" further forward that it needs to be moved - the can would hit the tie rods - limiting the turn radisu (or bending stuff)
So instead the cans are mounted in a shallow "V" battern.
The spacing on the forward tab means that the bushings are "cocked" and there are no spacers that come with the kit so the bushing "eggs out" and basically rattles like an old jalopy....
I was thinking of mounting a 7100 series remote res shock in there as a single shock - but I dont think that the can will clear the OEM upper A arm at full droop...
I found this on a search.
I HAVE the Downey dual IFS hoop.
Its "designed" (I use that term loosely) to put TWO shocks per side on an otherwise stock IFS setup.
1) you need to trim the inner metal fender well
2) the oil filter access panel gets tossed
3) changing the oil filer is now a PITA
4) you CUT OFF the OEM shock tower top.
5) you CUT OFF the OEM brake flex line tab ont he frame
The forward end of the hoop fits int an existing (but square) frame hole with a metal spacer (could have been better designed - albiet it would cost more for that machining)
The middle bolts to the TOP of the IFS Upper A arme "spindle/axle" thingie
The back end bolts to the lower control arm compression subber bracket.
There is a bolt on tab for the brake line - it makes a stock brake line a smidge "tight".
It uses Bilstien shocks - part numbers USED to be listed in the Downey catalog. I'll dig up part numbers when I remember.
As far as I can recall - these were 8" travel shocks for a 70s era Land Cruiser - probably they were around the Downey warehouse when the kit was designed.
I got the kit circa 1990 and used Doestch Tech shocks for about 2 years (60K). Those shocks got trashed quicky
Also the shocks mounted to the lower A arm hanging the second shock FORWARD of the OEM shock. Leverage quickly busted off the forward tab and thus.. the shocks were held on in single shear with a loos fit bolt - well it was sacary.
There is a "weld on" tab to add a "third" tab forward of the OEM shock tab.
If you dont buy this tab when you install the dual shocks - you will soon enough.
The shocks are mounted with the can side DOWN.
There is a REASON for this.
There is NOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE in the OEM upper A arm to fit everything....
So
The shock is set so that the CANS dont come up too far - but if you tried to mount the cans up top - the body of the can wont clear the corner of the frame bracket that holds the Upper A arm in place. Custom work could be done to push in the corner of the bracket - alot of work for little gain...
The shocks are NOT mounted parallel to each other.
The limiting factor is the the steering linkage.
If the forward shock were moved the 1" further forward that it needs to be moved - the can would hit the tie rods - limiting the turn radisu (or bending stuff)
So instead the cans are mounted in a shallow "V" battern.
The spacing on the forward tab means that the bushings are "cocked" and there are no spacers that come with the kit so the bushing "eggs out" and basically rattles like an old jalopy....
I was thinking of mounting a 7100 series remote res shock in there as a single shock - but I dont think that the can will clear the OEM upper A arm at full droop...
#16
Old Downey catalog specs a B46-0248 as the dual shock to use
Bilstein specs this as
469mm extended = 18.38"
302mm compressed = 11.88"
282/84 rebound/compression
This is a 1/75-82 FJ40 front shock
Bilstein specs this as
469mm extended = 18.38"
302mm compressed = 11.88"
282/84 rebound/compression
This is a 1/75-82 FJ40 front shock


