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Does my idler arm need to be rebuilt?

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Old 10-01-2017, 09:43 PM
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Does my idler arm need to be rebuilt?

1987 4runner

I recently took the truck to get the alignment done and they said front suspension is too sloppy, and first wanted to replace the idler arm, pitman arm, and ball joints. I am now doing all that myself, plus the tie rods. Question -- I got replacement bushing in order to rebuild the idler arm (rather than buying a new one). However, now I have the idler arm off, and I feel pretty much no play in it. Does that mean that its fine as is? In other words, if the bushings need replacement, I should be able to feel play in the idler arm with my hands, right?

Thanks greatly
Old 10-02-2017, 12:28 AM
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Red face

Was this all pointed out to you when it was on the alignment rack or you were told after the fact ??
Was your front end sloppy ??

Is every thing worn out ??

Into Hard Core Off Roading ??

Depends were the Idler arm was loose I have seen quite a few broken I have been told quite a few were loose that were just fine I don`t go back to the places

The time to check things is when every thing is still together

Some Alignment shops might try and tell you that parts are bad trying to get extra $$$ installing the cheapest parts they can .

I could see one bad part not the whole front end . Unless it was so bad it was impossible to keep on the road.

Ruined Front tires in a few miles
Old 10-02-2017, 09:25 AM
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The front end was somewhat sloppy and vibrating a lot at highway speeds. Though definitely not veering of the road or anything.

The shop (a local tire place) did show me w/ the truck up in the air. The was some definite side to side play, as well as up/down. The ball joints were obviously due for replacement (one upper and one lower had a ripped boot ... from the marking on them, I suspect they are original, truck has 325k). The tie rods they didn't mention but I am replacing those as well.

At the same time, I should have (and did not) look to try to localize the side to side play to the tie rods and/or idler arm and/or pitman arm.

I'm not into hardcore offroading but one of the POs might have been.
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Old 10-03-2017, 09:36 AM
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Seeing for your self IF each component has play while still on the vehicle is more reliable than asking people who have not seen what they look like. If you saw play but are not sure if they are too much, how do you expect us to be sure when we have not seen it?
Got video? A picture paints a thousand words, a video a million words.
If you have the budget and don't want to bother to verify if each individual component is bad or not, then go ahead buy replacement. BUT by OEM, otherwise you risk replacing good stock parts (because you haven't verified if they're good or bad) with lower quality after-market parts.
IF getting after-market, research well. Moog, for example used to be good, but now I'm seeing a few complaints about them, including from Alexman Video on Youtube (he has excellent videos of how to do things).

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 10-03-2017 at 09:40 AM.
Old 10-03-2017, 11:15 AM
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Over 325k and 30ish years.... yep some parts might be worn out whether It was offroaded or driven on rough roads or the smoothest roads in creation. Cool you’re doing it yourself. The shop took the time to show you in the air which is a good sign. The idler arm has a plastic bushing in it. If you got it pulled and have the parts why not replace it? Once you replace parts of front end you’ll need to re-align it so save money and do it all at once.

I used se to go through idler arms, torsion bar lift. After all if you’re not going to off-road it should’ve gotten a 2wd or a Jeep
Old 10-03-2017, 01:30 PM
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Hah, I'm definitely taking it offroading, just not "hardcore" --- yet . Though TBH up to now it's not been so much onroading/offroading but rather "endlessly fixing".

You're right, I will probably replace the idler arm bushings now that I have it out, even though it feels solid. Can't hurt.

I got all OEM parts except Moog inner tie rod ends and the pitman arm. So far everything has been fairly straightforward except getting the lower ball joints to separate from the hub was a pain.... couldn't get it with a screw driver. I noticed a little bolt coming out of the side of the old LBJs (where the zerk fitting can go), I put one end of a socket extension on that and hammered the other end, and after a while they separated.



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