toyota4x4907

Mr.Utah

Depends, is that superficial rust or is it deep. And is it all over the block?

toyota4x4907

Well I can't tell how deep it goes. It is rough to the touch. The rest of the block is in pretty good shape. The engine was stored outside all winter by the guy I bought it from.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey man, .....

Think it's pretty hard to tell from that pic alone. Are all the coolant ports completely plugged with rust/scale? If you wipe this rust away with some WD or PB... do you see some seriously deep pitting, etc.?

I mean, you're going to most likely have to have it bored at least 20'over, right? I have seen actually much worse be rebuilt with no issues there after, as long as the thing is PROPERLY machined and gauged for 'allowance', ...why not find out, eh? If you have a shop you're planning on using, maybe they would check it out for ya for free, right? Just remove all the inner-goodies, keep em in order, then have them look at the hardware as well, ....(see if you just need rings or a full rebuild top to bottom).

I would imagine your Crank isn't looking too pretty either, right? Maybe have it cleaned up as well, etc.?

Not sure what your situation is, plan is, etc. Elaborate?

Best wishes,

Mark

toyota4x4907

Well this rust isnt just wiping away. its certainly going to have to be machined off. I'm not sure if this engine has already been bored out though. Im going to have to get a bore scope and check. The guy said it was rebuilt last year.
My build thread here.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...pt-two-233653/

The crank looks fine, other than the #3 rod bearing being non-existent

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

It's so cheap to bore and hone out a block, I would let them take a look, ya know? Sure, check the diameter first, ......might tell ya right there, "Uh uh!", so why bother, ..I get yer point on that, ..no doubt.

Missing a Rod Bearing, eh? I wonder if that made the crank journals happy, eh?

I'll check out your build thread, best wishes, man, ....seriously!

Mr.Utah

If this type of rust is all over the block; oil filter area, intake man, exhaust man, oil pan studs, etc, I would look for a different one. Block only is easy to find and cheap. I would'nt want to get into the project just to say What the $%$#% is this! I would prefer to start a project off right, plenty of problems ahead, Guaranteed!

Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

My block was pretty rusted out when I pulled it apart...I blew the head gasket and had to let the truck sit through winter for about 5 months..the rust was bad enough to rust the rings to the cylinder walls...but with my "gentle" touch I got it freed up enough to drive it to my shop down the road. Anyway, I had mine bored .040 over (had to), honed, magged, vatted, pressure tested, and shaved just for the ladies . Looks like its brand new!

Your rust doesn't look too bad, but its worth a try.. Just pull it apart and take it up to an engine shop and see what they say..go .020 over and if the pitting is still there go .040. If it still has the pitting from the rust then your out 40 bucks and you probably just need to get a new block..unless you want to go into custom sized pistons...hmmm..I wonder..

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Toyota, .....anything? News, etc.?

toyota4x4907

Nothing yet. looking and asking around about the few machine shops in town. Gotta wait till I get paid anyhow. I'll update on my rebuild thread when.

toyota4x4907

Thats the kind of answer I was hoping for. Someone with similar experience. Gave me a little more hope

The coolant passages, apart from being smiley green from coolant, only have a few flakes/patches of surface rust.

Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

let us know what you decide to do!

Broknbonz

scotch brite pad, WD40 and alot of elbow grease should get you up & running (except for the missing #3 rod bearing) be sure to replace that rod or at least have it resized if it's not discolored