that should retain all stock functionality while giving up to 15 amps per headlight (180 watts each, 360 watts combined)

 

http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx

Anyone tried this, it's pre-made would eliminate some hassle?

 

it doesn't say what "heavy-gauge" it uses, it takes non-standard relays, and probably won't work with toyota's high-beam indication circuit

but it is a decent price for a pre-assembled kit

 

I think aviator did a similar purchase and upgrade. Check his thread. Or search for headlight upgrade.

 

Aviator's thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...w-pics-235789/

 

...and when i said "won't work with the high-beam indicator", i just mean it won't function like stock. some people don't mind if the little blue light works or not, or if the low-beams inadvertently come on with the highs, but i doubt any pre-made harness is switched ground, while retaining the indicator functionality

 

Looks like the same kind of kit I purchased. High beam indicator works just fine. The only difference is the DRLs come on at full low beam power all the time instead of the stock reduced power level... no real issue except I've caught myself forgetting to turn on the full headlight system at night more than once.
The indicator [blue light] is separate from the HLs themselves and is switched on when you select the high beams.
The kit [at least the one I got & fwiw this one appears identical] uses one of the stock sockets as the trigger to control the new harness so except for having a new source more or less direct off the batt. with better wire the HL system functions as normal.

 

my guess is canada's wiring is different than the us's. we don't have drl's, so i'm guessing there's a bit of extra wiring.

 

Yeah but the extra stuff is all in the cab behind/below the radio.. mainly an extra black wire w/orange stripe and a box doohickie... otherwise all else is more or less just as yours is.
Basically the box triggers the headlights alone anytime the ignition is in the "on" position at a reduced voltage so they are on but dimmed. With the new harness that still works but because the factory light harness is now just a trigger for the new relays the lights are full power all the time.

 

yeah, that makes sense. just a tad different.

that daggone switched ground and indicator circuit...

 

did 4crawler's DIY upgrade using 12g wire a while back, my indicator works perfect.

was popping bulbs left and right using OSram nightbreakers, while light output was amazing, tired of blowing bulbs.

put some cheapo $20 plain jane sylvanias in there and so far they've outlasted the osrams. Light output is pretty close if not the same.

still goin' strong!

 

Good info, I may buy one just to try it out. Gotta do something though because the stock headlights are junk. Can't believe at one time they were considered good.

 

good to know, thanks!

 

what about this kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-34263/overview/ , will this work ? heres another http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx

 

might have already have been asked but what rating of diode was the op using...

 

I am in the process of doing the H4 headlight upgrade. I ordered the autopal DOT housings and the 55/60 osram nightbreakers that are made in Germany.

aa1911 said that he was having issues with the nightbreakers burning out. Is anybody else having trouble with the nightbreakers? Would that be because of the high and low beam being on at the same time?

I would like the option of running the LB when the highs are on, but don't want to do it if it will pop the osrams or cause problems with the housings.

So.......... which diagram should I follow? Man I must have read this thread thru 3 times and just when I think I've got it all figured out ...

 

I have the wiring figured out. After reading several other posts I decided to go with lows on with high beams and enjoy being able to see the road

 

bump for anyone still interested in my circuit above:

i made up the circuit, and found it's easy to install. just 3 wires to the headlights (pos, hi-neg, lo-neg), two wires to the battery (pos, neg), and two wires to the stock plug (switched pos, hi-neg). i tweaked the circuit by one wire to make installation easier, but nothing else is changed. i'll post an updated schematic/diagram here in a bit

 

EDIT: My labeling of 87 and 87A are backwards, but the wiring diagram is still correct. Follow the wiring diagram, knowing that the labels "87" and "87A" are reversed (but not the wiring)

 

Hey yall, i followed these instructions to a T, and now dont have low beams! Its in a 1983 pickup, and both high and low worked fine before. Ive checked connections and fuses. The only thing i figured out is if i switch the high and low wires going to the old headlight socket (to send signal to new relays), i get low beams but no high. I ordered bosch 5 pin relays that came with an 87 and 87a pins, but have them pigtailed to the 87 pins because the 87a pin was keeping the lights on while the switch was off. Any help is greatly appreciated!