Follow this one instead. Sounds like you have the same issue I had when I first made mine. Make sure you are using the ground from the old harness to run to your relays.

 

I am going to really have to look at mine again. I swear I didn't hook up that 3rd prong on the old plug.

 

Original plug has: low beam, high beam, always-hot common...

Thanks for checking, how can any of these be grounded?

When I said cap the common terminal, I meant insulate it and not use it. I thought only the low beam gets used as the low beam relay trigger, and the same for the high beam terminal.

Do different years have switched grounds and others switched power systems?

 

No you will need the other connection. When I first installed my harness I didnt use the common and it didnt work, I wasnt getting any lights at all. Once I added the common it worked perfectly.

I can just about guarantee that if you run the common to both of your relays and replace the ground it will work. If you got a good couple feet of wire you can test it out before you go adding it to your harness. Its worth a shot

 

Thnk you for the reply Drmix,

It sounds like you are saying to connect an always hot wire to what was the ground of the relay, and not actually ground the relay.

Sounds weird, the relay looks ungrounded. It follows the diagram Example of Typical Switched Power Supply diagram. I'll give it a try.

 

Almost finished this upgrade using 4Crawler's headlight upgrade schematic, waiting on the 6054s to show up. I'll be connecting to the headlight fuse(LH-RH) under the hood, then all new 10awg(read: overkill) to headlights and battery. Headlight power will be run off the AUX battery, so in case i ever leave the lights on, it will pull from the aux battery and not the start(main).
^^^Any one see a problem with this idea?

 

You must use the common and power from the factory plug across terminals 85/86. When you turn the headlights on, the factory switched ground circuit closes the relay and allows battery voltage to flow from terminal 30 to 87, effectively converting your headlights from switched ground to switched power. The relay is not technically grounded to anything. Follow the diagram above and it will work...I guarantee it.

 

Only thing I see wrong is that you should have upgraded to the H4's. I dont think they even make any bulbs in that size that require anything near 10 gauge

 

actually, 10awg sounds about right. his (rb) batteries are in the back. with a 10-amp load, most charts say 12awg. factor in voltage drop and imperfections, 10awg seems fine to me

 

Sorry if i wasn't clear...I am using H4 bulbs. And i figure bigger wire is better in most cases, as a just in case.
My batteries, as Ian said, are in the back of the truck(trunk, sunken box) i have 2awg running from the rear to the front of the truck with twin distribution blocks for easy power hook up. One is main(starter and ecu) battery, the other is auxiliary(everything else).
My concern was hooking the headlight power to the aux battery and while leaving the relay switch on the starter battery(for now).
I don't see an issue since the two batteries are both 12v. Currently i have my radio hooked to the starter battery and the amp(cuz it draws a battery down) hooked to the auxiliary battery.

 

you should be fine. the grounds are hooked together, right? i don't see any issues

 

My truck is so grounded now, i think i have a 1/3rd more grounds using heavier gauge(4awg and 8) wire then any yota around...well, except yours, haha.
Yes the batteries are tied together with a 4awg ground(12") and then to body ground(box).
BTW, i got my SWR yesterday if you need to borrow it.

 

soon. the guy hasn't contacted me in a week, and i haven't gotten my new antenna yet. i'm about ready to sell this one and buy the right one from someone else.

back on topic... ha...

i actually need to add a few more grounds, but it shouldn't be too hard with my set-up

 

I did it and it seems to work! I'm not absolutely sure cause it bright day. The only problem is that it only works with the old sealed beam plugged into the harness, which is essentially a resistor. I'll check it out at night.

 

Did you figure it out?

 

I didn't resolve my third headlight situation. I was thinking of putting a 50-100 watt 5 ohm resistor in the old headlight terminal to simulate the resistance given by the third headlight which I am assuming gave me back my high beams. It also allows my high beam indicator to show up again. I would be more positive about this solution if I heard other people had done someting similar. I'm also wondering how hot that resistor would get, and if it would melt or burn something it touched.

I welcome input or ideas.

 

Hmm I heard of people having to use resistors but not sure why? Mine functions correctly without using one

 

Figured it out, I had the common wire confused with low beams. Corrected it, and works but combo switch is extremely sensitive, like just bumping it forward puts it in high beams even if the lever is not in forward position, which is not that desirable. But it functions now so thanks good

 

Anyone using this setup designed by 4crawler?

It uses dpst relays.
I have mine wired up just waiting for my 6054 H4 housings. And I need to order a dpst relay.

 

With so many people not getting this right the first time, I am confused as if MY diagram is correct or not now.

RBX it appears 4crawlers turns the low beams off when high beams comes on. With mine lows stay on with highs.