Distributer timing and code reader help
#1
Distributer timing and code reader help
I have a 1992 pickup with a 3.0 v6 the head gaskets went so I got a new motor which is in the truck and completely put back together but i am having trouble getting it running so i have a few questions, Do i have to unplug the ECM, time the distributer then plug it back in?? My dad also picked up a code reader which i tried but it gives me no codes do i have to unplug the ECM for this too? Can you even unplug the ECM? If anybody knows of any good threads with instructions of exactly how to time it so i know im doing it right? Thank you
#2
Registered User
Double, triple and quadruple check the timing. Physically on the timing belt side and on how you stabbed the distributor.
You don't need to unplug anything to check for codes. The problem is that if the timing is off and it will not start, it is not going to throw any codes anyway.
Keep us posted.
You don't need to unplug anything to check for codes. The problem is that if the timing is off and it will not start, it is not going to throw any codes anyway.
Keep us posted.
#3
So i have been working on the distributer and i got it pretty spot on i think it sounds like all 6 cylinders and firing but when they do its back firing with smoke coming out of the throttle body?
#5
I just went through the same issue with my truck. Replaced the head gaskets and it wouldn't start at first. I thought i was spot on with timeing too. If your confident your cams are timed correctly. I would TDC the #1 cyclinder on the compression stroke again and make sure the rotor is facing the rubber boot that covers the wires that come out of the dizzy. This is what i had to do and found out i was a tooth or two off on the dizzy. I'm pretty sure you already did this but, have you double checked you spark plug wires?
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
#7
When you take off the distributor cap. There is a rubber gromet or boot whatever you want to call it, coming out of the dizzy. Your rotor should be pointing at that when your #1 cylinder is on it's compression stroke at Top Dead Center(TDC)... Check out this link.
On the Page IG-25, The picture labeled P02951. That square thing on the side of the distributor is where you want your rotor pointing when your #1 cylinder is @ TDC on the compression stroke. I don't know if the 92 distributor is different then mine(I have a 1990.) But mine has wires coming out with a plug at the end.
Hope this helps
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...13distribu.pdf
On the Page IG-25, The picture labeled P02951. That square thing on the side of the distributor is where you want your rotor pointing when your #1 cylinder is @ TDC on the compression stroke. I don't know if the 92 distributor is different then mine(I have a 1990.) But mine has wires coming out with a plug at the end.
Hope this helps
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...13distribu.pdf
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#8
Whoops, I thought i posted this link in my first reply. Here is a link to Check Engine Light codes. I would mark it as a "favorite" cause once you get it started you will be chasing down CEL codes.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
#9
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...13distribu.pdf yeah i have been using this the whole time, and thank you for the CEL codes link too!!
#11
Registered User
If it is popping BACK through the intake, then it is a timing issue.
Just like the other fellas' said, double check the physical cam timing. I know it is a bitch pulling the front covers off to check, but the t-belt is easy to get a tooth (or more) off on either of the cams.
Make sure you solve your issue before putting any miles on it. If the timing is off on either (or both) of the cams, you could be running it in a lean condition. It will quickly turn your new engine into a lump of non-warranty-able metal.
Just like the other fellas' said, double check the physical cam timing. I know it is a bitch pulling the front covers off to check, but the t-belt is easy to get a tooth (or more) off on either of the cams.
Make sure you solve your issue before putting any miles on it. If the timing is off on either (or both) of the cams, you could be running it in a lean condition. It will quickly turn your new engine into a lump of non-warranty-able metal.
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