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Distributer timing and code reader help

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Old 10-03-2009, 06:54 PM
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Distributer timing and code reader help

I have a 1992 pickup with a 3.0 v6 the head gaskets went so I got a new motor which is in the truck and completely put back together but i am having trouble getting it running so i have a few questions, Do i have to unplug the ECM, time the distributer then plug it back in?? My dad also picked up a code reader which i tried but it gives me no codes do i have to unplug the ECM for this too? Can you even unplug the ECM? If anybody knows of any good threads with instructions of exactly how to time it so i know im doing it right? Thank you
Old 10-05-2009, 11:15 AM
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Double, triple and quadruple check the timing. Physically on the timing belt side and on how you stabbed the distributor.

You don't need to unplug anything to check for codes. The problem is that if the timing is off and it will not start, it is not going to throw any codes anyway.
Keep us posted.
Old 10-05-2009, 02:07 PM
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So i have been working on the distributer and i got it pretty spot on i think it sounds like all 6 cylinders and firing but when they do its back firing with smoke coming out of the throttle body?
Old 10-05-2009, 02:20 PM
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OBDII readers only work on 1996 and up vehicles. do a search on "check engine light" and you'll find posts on how to determine the reason behind your CEL.
Old 10-05-2009, 02:33 PM
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I just went through the same issue with my truck. Replaced the head gaskets and it wouldn't start at first. I thought i was spot on with timeing too. If your confident your cams are timed correctly. I would TDC the #1 cyclinder on the compression stroke again and make sure the rotor is facing the rubber boot that covers the wires that come out of the dizzy. This is what i had to do and found out i was a tooth or two off on the dizzy. I'm pretty sure you already did this but, have you double checked you spark plug wires?

Hope this helps
Old 10-05-2009, 02:44 PM
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Which wire and which rubber boot? #1?
Old 10-05-2009, 03:25 PM
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When you take off the distributor cap. There is a rubber gromet or boot whatever you want to call it, coming out of the dizzy. Your rotor should be pointing at that when your #1 cylinder is on it's compression stroke at Top Dead Center(TDC)... Check out this link.

On the Page IG-25, The picture labeled P02951. That square thing on the side of the distributor is where you want your rotor pointing when your #1 cylinder is @ TDC on the compression stroke. I don't know if the 92 distributor is different then mine(I have a 1990.) But mine has wires coming out with a plug at the end.

Hope this helps


http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...13distribu.pdf
Old 10-05-2009, 03:35 PM
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Whoops, I thought i posted this link in my first reply. Here is a link to Check Engine Light codes. I would mark it as a "favorite" cause once you get it started you will be chasing down CEL codes.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
Old 10-05-2009, 04:02 PM
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http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...13distribu.pdf yeah i have been using this the whole time, and thank you for the CEL codes link too!!
Old 10-05-2009, 09:42 PM
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I have been off by 1 or 2 teeth on a timing belt before and had the engine not start, likely your issue, like said above, check and re-check...
Old 10-06-2009, 06:40 AM
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If it is popping BACK through the intake, then it is a timing issue.

Just like the other fellas' said, double check the physical cam timing. I know it is a bitch pulling the front covers off to check, but the t-belt is easy to get a tooth (or more) off on either of the cams.

Make sure you solve your issue before putting any miles on it. If the timing is off on either (or both) of the cams, you could be running it in a lean condition. It will quickly turn your new engine into a lump of non-warranty-able metal.
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