Dirty, Nasty Head
#1
Dirty, Nasty Head
So, I bought this 1988 4Runner with 22RE and 5speed, maybe God knows why. I suppose at $400 it seemed like a bargain. Of course, it's not running and the previous owner didn't know why. Said something about no compression Trying to decide whether to fix it or part it out -- I'm not sure at all that this thing needs to be saved. In any event, I do want to fix the engine as I can use it somewhere, sometime, I'm sure.
Here it is:
So, figured the first thing to do was to check the timing chain/cam timing so I pulled the valve cover to discover this:
For those with a strong stomach, here's a close up:
Jeez, that is the dirtiest, most disgusting OHC valve train I've ever seen. Looks like the oil hasn't been changed since 88.
So, it turns out that the timing chain is flopping around like a carp that mistook a fetid piece of cheese for a delectable morsel and I can see absolutely no sign of a driver's side chain guide. Also, the cam is about 45 degrees out of time with the crank. No compression? No bull! Obviously, a timing chain kit is in order along with a cover (probably) and an oil pump as the little tab with the timing marks that is supposed to be there is somewhere else -- probably vacationing in Baja.
So, the question is, how does the head/valve train get that nasty? Is it just a matter of not changing the oil or is it indicative of seriously gone rings?
When I get the parts for the timing chain replacement, I'm going to drop the pan and get an idea of what the bottom end looks like. Can't imagine what I'll find if I decide to pull the head.
Jeez that thing's nasty. Reminds me of a girl I knew when I was in the army.
Here it is:
So, figured the first thing to do was to check the timing chain/cam timing so I pulled the valve cover to discover this:
For those with a strong stomach, here's a close up:
Jeez, that is the dirtiest, most disgusting OHC valve train I've ever seen. Looks like the oil hasn't been changed since 88.
So, it turns out that the timing chain is flopping around like a carp that mistook a fetid piece of cheese for a delectable morsel and I can see absolutely no sign of a driver's side chain guide. Also, the cam is about 45 degrees out of time with the crank. No compression? No bull! Obviously, a timing chain kit is in order along with a cover (probably) and an oil pump as the little tab with the timing marks that is supposed to be there is somewhere else -- probably vacationing in Baja.
So, the question is, how does the head/valve train get that nasty? Is it just a matter of not changing the oil or is it indicative of seriously gone rings?
When I get the parts for the timing chain replacement, I'm going to drop the pan and get an idea of what the bottom end looks like. Can't imagine what I'll find if I decide to pull the head.
Jeez that thing's nasty. Reminds me of a girl I knew when I was in the army.
#2
When i first read this thread title.........ah nevermind
That is on par with some of the worst Camry and Sienna engines I have ever seen. It comes from high heat, low quality oil, and not changing the oil. Ever. The camry engine had this same problem, and in fact Toyota is still paying for that one. Oil should always be changed at 3k miles. regardless of how smart anyone thinks they are about their engine, oil, or filter. The previous owner abused this poor beauty.
That is on par with some of the worst Camry and Sienna engines I have ever seen. It comes from high heat, low quality oil, and not changing the oil. Ever. The camry engine had this same problem, and in fact Toyota is still paying for that one. Oil should always be changed at 3k miles. regardless of how smart anyone thinks they are about their engine, oil, or filter. The previous owner abused this poor beauty.
#4
I'd say cheap oil and he never changed it. Just kept adding to it to keep it topped off. what a jerk!!! You might as well go though the whole thing and hot tank the block and head, fresh bearings, rings, seals. Who knows, maybe its got bent valves. Good luck in any case!
#7
All the valves appear to go up and down without difficulty so I'm hoping that no valves got bent when it jumped time. I'm probably going to pull the head later this week or early next just to get a view of the valves and combustion chambers. Hate to see what the tops of the piston look like. When it comes down to it, this engine has seen some serious abuse/neglect. I expect that when I lift the head that i'll find that it needs valve work and the like and that I'll end up either dropping a bit of change to fix it up or going with a rebuilt or replacement head. So, with the head and the front end I'm going to be into it for a bit -- depending on how bad the head is. With that much into it, it seems that the proper thing to do is to go ahead and do the block while at it. Bo point in building half-assed engines.
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#8
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I won't pop the head. If the top is that bad the bottom is too. Replacing the head is just polish a terd no matter how shiny it gets its still crap. If you spend a little coin and it runs great. If it don't go with a whole new engine. Its not your primary transportation. If it runs a high quality oil, frequently changed, will work on getting the rest of the crud out. These engines are a non-interface type, so even with the timing chain slipping no valves or pistons were touched.
How many miles?
How many miles?
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#12
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Isn't a parts cleaner for cleaning something like that?
Your gonna need a lot of sea foam for that J/K..
Seriously though you have some seriously coked on oil.
Before you go pulling things apart get a timing chain kit replace that then take some motor flush or ATF run it through there first after you get it running.
Then drain the oil and pull the valve cover. See how it cleans up before you make a decision what to do.
Likely the timing chain guides are at the bottom of the oil pan... Ahh if the timing chain didn't wear through front cover just j/b weld it. lol..
I have dealt with a mazda 323 that was worse than that the guy didn't change the oil for 25,000 miles the whole 3 years he owned it.
It cleaned up the valve springs and cam nicely. The valve cover required more drastic measures though it looked like someone smeared grease on it and the grease had grooves cut in it from the cam and lifters moving. I had to use a putty knife and a parts cleaner to take care of that.
You would be amazed how much motor flush or atf cleans a dirty motor like that though.
Your gonna need a lot of sea foam for that J/K..
Seriously though you have some seriously coked on oil.
Before you go pulling things apart get a timing chain kit replace that then take some motor flush or ATF run it through there first after you get it running.
Then drain the oil and pull the valve cover. See how it cleans up before you make a decision what to do.
Likely the timing chain guides are at the bottom of the oil pan... Ahh if the timing chain didn't wear through front cover just j/b weld it. lol..
I have dealt with a mazda 323 that was worse than that the guy didn't change the oil for 25,000 miles the whole 3 years he owned it.
It cleaned up the valve springs and cam nicely. The valve cover required more drastic measures though it looked like someone smeared grease on it and the grease had grooves cut in it from the cam and lifters moving. I had to use a putty knife and a parts cleaner to take care of that.
You would be amazed how much motor flush or atf cleans a dirty motor like that though.
Last edited by 934rnr; 02-17-2009 at 06:00 AM.
#13
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Looks like its been overheated a few times too many and the oil was rarely changed. I agree with 934rnr. Flush it put int some clean oil, new filter etc and see if it runs. If it runs fairly well then run it till it dies. Then fix it. If it aint broke (or dead in this case) dont worry about it.
#14
I say you got a smokin' deal. I always read about these great deals on here. In my neck of the woods. Yakima, WA you might get that for 400 without a engine in it. Most likely pay around $1000 or more for that as it sits over here.
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#18
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