I had some body rot, so it was easy for me to drill a hole into the cargo box and then into the cabin (sealed the box with RTV). Then I fixed the body.

 

Biggest thing is you don't want any "U" sags in the vent line where fluid might become blocked and thus clog off the vent...seal go boom. You need some slack just don't let the line sag to make any "U"s.

 

I am by no means questioning your experience, but a little fluid will stop the air-flow, really?

I would think the air would push it a little bit, then the air would just "burp" past the trapped fluid

 

BTDT replaced an axle seal because of it. Think 90W gear oil and think about how thick that stuff gets in cold weather and put that thick oil in a small tube and you can't even blow through it (and I did try this and that is how I found the source of the problem). And the problem is while the gear oil in the axle heats up with use, the oil trapped in the vent line has no source of heat and once that axle heats up, pressure builds up and it'll find the easiest way out (ideally the vent line unless it is clogged).

I run the 1/8" NPT fittings on mine, works fine and they cost about $1 ea.

 

iamsuperbleeder-

good thought but the pressure out of the diff is very low-like 1-4 psi and may not be enough to "burp" past the gooey fluid....

yah-what 4crawler said....

 

Trying to resurrect this old thread. Does any one know the thread pitch and size of the nipple needed?

92 22re IFS

 

Some size info below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Breathers