Yeah will do that soon. It's just weird that it would stop working in one direction but that's my 4Runner. And I've had to do lots of electrical troubleshooting.

 

Repeat: To eliminate doubt on wiper parking, disconnect the connector at the rear wiper motor assembly and try again..

Excellent maintenance procedure!
Mine parks with no problem. However, because the wiper blade freely rotates at the pivot pin, it ends up getting in the way of the rising glass. PITA. That's why I removed the whole assembly, and because I hate the roll-up window (too many practical and safety reasons why I do), I'm researching how to replace it with flip-up window like those on FJ60, almost all truck cap, Jeep Wranglers, etc. that are no dependent on electricity.

 

 

The wiper pivot, at the far end where the wiper blade pivots laterally? If that's getting into the glass joint its not fully parked! It should be fully on the fiberglass shell area, think mine has about a centimeter below it, even in the picture above its off the glass and on the shell. That is to say it (the ramp mechanisim) doesn't just lifts off of the glass, it guides the wiper off the glass and should seat well above the glass to topper junction. Your arm needs the flex and lube treatment mentioned above and maybe a little tweak to the ramp with the mounting screws there or on the "park" seat on the topper.

You gave up to soon my friend. Maybe your arm is tweaked or off a tooth also in hindsight.

OP. Start with testing the window switch in the cab, then the wire to the relay module from the cabin(its in the rear left side passenger panel). IE if it works from key cylinder in the rear gate (?) Its not a park switch or issue with the gate internals or module.

 

For those of us without a ton of knowledge about wiring things like this are weird, even if they make sense to other people. I'm still learning! But I pulled the switch out and and testing it before moving on to wiring. I appreciate the input.

 

I pulled the switch, but I couldn't find the pinouts in the FSM. It would be easy if it was just a switch.

 

 

Rear power window switch. Pin 2 is ground. Pin 5 is up.
basicly you just need to verify that there is continuity between two pins in both positions and none while in the middle.

Ground the wire and it will move in one of two directions. This verifies the relay and wiring ate good

 

Thanks. I was looking for an actual graphic to troubleshoot the switch like the cruise control switch but didn't see it.

 

 

Wow, thanks. Now I feel like an idiot! I didn't see that!

 

So I think the switch is bad. I don't really know how to test electronics and switches well, but when I put the ground? terminal of my multi-meter on pin 2 and then put the positive on pin 1 and press down on the switch, I get resistance?
When i ground 2 and connect the other terminal to pin 5 and press up, I get nothing. Although, this seems to be the opposite of what I would expect to see? I have the door trim type connection and that seems to be the opposite of what the schematic shows?

 

Read the intro section for "body electronics" it tells you how to do these sorts of electrical tests.

A be sure the switch is unplugged.
B clean it with electrical contact spray, then flip it back and forth a few hundred times and retest if it improves repeat untill you see no more improvement.
C if all else fails take it apart to clean it.
D if all else fails source a new on.

PS did you try jumpering the connection to ground and verify the relay box and wiring are good?

 

Thanks, I will read that section. I tested it on my work bench outside of the vehicle. I'll probably just take it apart first. When I press down there is a definite feel to it that's not there when I press up. It's like you press the down button and it makes a click, then you feel it press something. I could probably see what that is when it's apart.

Also, yes I did jump the switch to ground and it rolled the window up and down fine for like 10 months. Then up just stopped. I have not tested the relay yet but I can do that.

 

You mean you bypassed the safety switches by wiring pin 2 direct to the chassis? I mean to jumper the harness side pin 1 or pin 5 to ground(and pin 2), that will tell if it is a relay, safety switch or the window switch and verify all the wires. Hi think 4crawler/Roger covers this also.

 

Yes, that's what I did. I thought that's what you meant. So to be clear, you are saying take the switch out of the equation completely and mimic it's function with jumpers? I take pin two and ground it and then also ground pin 1 to make it go one direction, and then ground pin 2 to make it go the other direction? That would essential perform the same function the switch is doing right?

I know there are tons of write-ups on this, but I appreciate the help. I actually looked at Terry's build thread and took apart the switch and cleaned it and it works now. I do still need to have pin 2 jumped to the chassis, so one of the safety switches is likely the issue right? Can I eliminate the relay at this point?

 

How Rear Window Control Works.

 

Five is up, One is down, Two is ground via the safety switches.

When you bypass the safety switches by adding a grounding wire to pin Two it indicates a problem in the ground path (typically the safety switches). How ever since your key in the tail gate raises and lowers the window this means the typical failure (gate latch switch, Toyota called it something else) is fine.

​​​​​​​Your problem lays in the "lock switch" just to the left of the console switch in the diagram above. Located in the console between the window and wiper switches. Probably the same issue (drink spilled or what not). Test for ground on one of those wires to it (pin 4), to eliminate a wiring issue, then clean it up like you did the up/down switch. It's a four place plug with only two wires (pin 2, goes to the up down switch).

 

That's^^^ the power "WINDOW" switch, not sure if same as REAR widow switch.

BTW, did O.P. say his tailgate key is able to raise and lower the window?
Yes, in the past 31 years, someone must have spilt coffee, soda, beer on that console switch.
It's just either:
1) Console up. down switch.
2) Rear Window lock switch, OR
3) Wiring between them and the rear widow control relay module.

Repeat: How Rear Window Control Works.

 

I think I have both a spare lock and Rear Window switch if it comes down to you replacing them. Just let me know.