I just replaced my PS pump. I new it took ATF fluid but I didn't know if it took ATF+3,4,etc. or Dextron. Well I bought the ATF+4 synthetic & forgot to check the cap until I was finished flushing it. Is this ok or do I need to flush it again w/DexII, III, whatever????? Btw, it was a total ass whoop to change & flush the PS pump. I've changed about 5 PS pumps in my life & they've never taken me longer than an hour. This took me 6 hrs. but I had to go to the store twice.

 

Honestly I run regular ol motor oil in all my toyota PS pumps. They always work better and make less noise. Also I have revived many PS pumps by using motor oil.

 

So I'm fine w/the ATF+4?

 

Not too big a deal i would get a couple quarts of dextron 3 and proceed to "Exchange" the fluid.

Just get you an oil pump or something to pull the fluid out of the reservoir and just pull the reservoir dry ad fill it with dextron 3, run the engine for a few mins turning the wheel a few times lock to lock and remove fluid again....

Doing this a couple times and you should be fine.... assuming you don't want to remove the pump and drain it out that way...

 

Yea i mean the p/s is just an oil pump basically... the type of fluid use in it relates to the pressure the pump needs and or can put out...

 

I'll do that in the morning. Also, I broke off 1 of the nipples for the vacuum device that increases idle upon steering effort. I'm just gonna cap the lines @ the manifold. From what I've read this is fine to do, correct? I never noticed it idle up anyways but now I have a constant high idle from the vacuum leak!

 

Sure, why not? I'm sure that a lot of the parts in a Toyota are just there for fun!

Without the idle-up, you'll kill the engine every time you try to parallel-park. Unless you just set the regular idle high enough that it only slows down to 800 when you're working the PS pump. Don't try to park, or have a high idle. Your choice.

 

I'd suggest flushing the system entirely & going to the dexron.
The big issue with mixing hydraulic fluids isn't the effectiveness of the fluid, but of the seals.
Most hydraulic systems.. (brakes, p/s etc) have specific types of o-rings and seals to the type of fluid. If another fluid type with a different chemical composition is used, it can shrink or swell the seals.
Granted, it's not an airplane (my mech background) we're talking about, it's a yota.. It will probably be fine, But better to be safe than sorry. The correct fluid now is $10, and a way better deal than a new pump and p/s box in a couple of years.

My 0.02.

 

I use a turkey baster to change out my PS fluid. Works like a charm.

 

Geez; I went to Sears and bought the right stuff by the quart. my PS pump is still going at 240k its the steering box that died at 334k after ZERO maint in 24yrs.

So if ATF or motor oil works, well that just shows how tough Yota stuff is.

 

The diaphragm ruptured in the vacuum valve on my '93 and the engine started sucking up and burning my power steering fluid. I didn't want to pay the ridiculous price for a new valve so I just removed it and threaded in a small plug. I never had any problems afterwards and the idle didn't change when steering, even at full lock.

 

I like to post conclusions to my problems so it helps others in the future so here it is. I repaired the stock air control valve w/5 minute epoxy. Installed it & as I was attaching the vacuum lines to it, it half ass broke again!. So I undid the 2 vacuum lines from the motor side & put rubber caps on them. The difference in having them functioning properly & them capped is exactly 100 RPM's. I have my idle @ 850 & FSM says idle should be 800 +/- 50. So even when it bogs down the 100 RPM's I'm still idling @ 750(within factory specs). I turned my AC on high & @ a dead stop cranked the wheel from lock to lock. The only time it went below 750 was when it was @ full lock & in a bind, then it dropped to 600 RPM. NEVER died or even acted like it was wanting to. No parallel parking my ass! I did it today after the mod just fine. Saved myself $100!!!!!!!!!!

 

No good toolbox is complete without a Turkey baster!

 

Mine has a bleeder nipple at the steering gear box and drained it that way. I also use Mobil 1 synthetic atf Dexron- no problem at -35C.

 

DexMerc III.