Did EGR removal and WoW
03-01-2010, 05:03 AM
#1
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Location: Ringgold Ga/Chattanooga Tn
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Did EGR removal and WoW
All the other crap I've done to this truck didn't compare to this.
So far mod's I had done to get the idle smoothed out and get rid of the dip in power, as well as raise power are the following:
dynomax catback - mandrel bent
cat delete with test pipe - was clogged bad
new o2 sensor
new TPS - adjusted to 4crawler's specs
CAI - temp setup but is more of a HAI
Plugs, cap, rotor, wires
Injector cleaner's
Seafoamed
new thermostat
All of the above, and nothing touched deleting the EGR, NOTHING.
I also discovered that my A/C not working is not a leak or compressor problem, my bottom tensioner pulley was binded and broke off so all I need is a new lower tensioner assemble and I'm good to go on A/C again.
So, I have a forged 302 bored out and setting at 306 and I'm actually happy with the output now of the 3.slow, I'm considering just building that engine the rest of the way slowly and not putting it in just yet, really considering buying headers for this engine now as it will put it over what I want output wise, WWYD?
What is the easiest way to burp our coolant systems as well, think I have air at the Throttle body as my light is on still.
So far mod's I had done to get the idle smoothed out and get rid of the dip in power, as well as raise power are the following:
dynomax catback - mandrel bent
cat delete with test pipe - was clogged bad
new o2 sensor
new TPS - adjusted to 4crawler's specs
CAI - temp setup but is more of a HAI
Plugs, cap, rotor, wires
Injector cleaner's
Seafoamed
new thermostat
All of the above, and nothing touched deleting the EGR, NOTHING.
I also discovered that my A/C not working is not a leak or compressor problem, my bottom tensioner pulley was binded and broke off so all I need is a new lower tensioner assemble and I'm good to go on A/C again.
So, I have a forged 302 bored out and setting at 306 and I'm actually happy with the output now of the 3.slow, I'm considering just building that engine the rest of the way slowly and not putting it in just yet, really considering buying headers for this engine now as it will put it over what I want output wise, WWYD?
What is the easiest way to burp our coolant systems as well, think I have air at the Throttle body as my light is on still.
Last edited by vandert; 03-01-2010 at 05:05 AM.
03-01-2010, 06:22 AM
#2
Contributing Member
I also installed a "T" on the heater hose for the purpose of burping. Off the "T" I have an extra heater hose with a plug for the end, held in with a hose clamp (not shown in the pics). Remove the plug and swivel the hose up high, air comes out coolant stays in.
Swiveled up for burping:
Swiveled down for driving:
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-01-2010 at 06:28 AM.
03-01-2010, 10:57 AM
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Dale,
Thank you for sharing the pictures.
Questions, when I did my valve cover change, I removed the TB. Afterwards, I just installed the TB back on the engine, filled it with coolant and started my 3ZVE engine. It's been running fine with no codes.
Why did you do this?
Many thanks..still learning.
Thank you for sharing the pictures.
Questions, when I did my valve cover change, I removed the TB. Afterwards, I just installed the TB back on the engine, filled it with coolant and started my 3ZVE engine. It's been running fine with no codes.
Why did you do this?
Many thanks..still learning.
03-01-2010, 12:37 PM
#5
Registered User
That is the best idea for burping I have seen so far. Damn, I'm going to copy that. Just wish I had the 3.4 and the S/C in my rig that I see in those pictures. Damn 3.Slow, I wish it would blow up so I could do a 3.4 swap.
Thanks for the idea, that is a good one.
Mike
Thanks for the idea, that is a good one.
Mike
03-01-2010, 01:03 PM
#7
Egr kicks in after 2500 rpms and cycles exhuast gases back into the intake to cool down the combustion temperature. To remove it on a 3.0 would not be a good idea as to how they like to chew up headgaskets. Just throwin that out there.
Last edited by vital22re; 03-01-2010 at 01:06 PM.
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03-01-2010, 01:04 PM
#8
Registered User
If you had a properly functioning EGR in the first place, you'd notice no difference anyway. Aside from that, you'll get better gas mileage with a proper EGR setup, along with cooler engine temps under load (IE: driving up a hill not under WOT)
There is no performance benefit to removing it.
There is no performance benefit to removing it.
03-01-2010, 01:18 PM
#9
Registered User
EGR is inoperative at WOT.
Removing it is pointless.
03-01-2010, 01:57 PM
#10
If you had a properly functioning EGR in the first place, you'd notice no difference anyway. Aside from that, you'll get better gas mileage with a proper EGR setup, along with cooler engine temps under load (IE: driving up a hill not under WOT)
There is no performance benefit to removing it.
There is no performance benefit to removing it.
It's job is to lower NOx in the exhaust at the expense of robbing power from the engine.
IT WILL NOT IMPROVE YOUR GAS MILEAGE OR LOWER ENGINE TEMPS. As these are NOT it's functions.
The ONLY reason to remove it is for performance reasons!
Hardly!
Thanks for the advice...but I won't be putting mine back on anytime soon!
Last edited by MudHippy; 03-01-2010 at 01:59 PM.
03-01-2010, 02:09 PM
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Good info mudhippy!!!! On the money, I did'nt understand where they were going with the egr lowering engine temp. ????? EGR=Exhaust Gas Return, Isnt exhaust gases the hottest at the manifold where the egr pics it up?
03-01-2010, 03:06 PM
#14
Registered User
EGR valve saving your head gasket? NOT LIKELY!!!
WRONG...on all accounts!
It's job is to lower NOx in the exhaust at the expense of robbing power from the engine.
IT WILL NOT IMPROVE YOUR GAS MILEAGE OR LOWER ENGINE TEMPS. As these are NOT it's functions.
The ONLY reason to remove it is for performance reasons!
Hardly!
Thanks for the advice...but I won't be putting mine back on anytime soon!
WRONG...on all accounts!
It's job is to lower NOx in the exhaust at the expense of robbing power from the engine.
IT WILL NOT IMPROVE YOUR GAS MILEAGE OR LOWER ENGINE TEMPS. As these are NOT it's functions.
The ONLY reason to remove it is for performance reasons!
Hardly!
Thanks for the advice...but I won't be putting mine back on anytime soon!
I was simply stating benefits of keeping it on. The ECU is tuned for having the EGR. If it's functioning properly, you WILL get better mileage.Most remove it because it's a nuisance, and because it's ugly. Not for performance.
03-01-2010, 05:04 PM
#15
Registered User
Removing the EGR for performance is one of the funniest things I've ever heard.
MudHippy, get back to me when you understand the basic principles of vacuum in a naturally aspirated gasoline combustion engine.
MudHippy, get back to me when you understand the basic principles of vacuum in a naturally aspirated gasoline combustion engine.
03-01-2010, 05:14 PM
#16
Registered User
EGR recirculates exhaust gases back into the cylinder, to displace and help burn more NOx, thus lowering emissions.
EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation
EGR gasses also are used to reduce the temperatures of the combustion chamber.
Your vehicle is more likely to ping or detonate without the EGR, as with the EGR removed youll have a higher temperature in the cylinder.
LASTLY... EGR only operates under vacuum, which means it only operates at cruise. At WOT, the EGR is OFF!
03-01-2010, 06:01 PM
#18
Registered User
Just thought I would throw this one into the mix:
The purpose of EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) is to reduce the NOx emissions. Air is mainly made of oxygen and nitrogen (O2 and N2). At temperatures above 1300°C (2372°F), these molecules split apart and rejoin with each other to make nitrogen oxides (like NO, NO2, etc...). The nitrogen oxides contribute to smog formation.
EGR puts a portion of the exhaust gas back into the intake manifold, so it mixes with the fuel and air. (Note that the exhaust adds to the fuel and air; it doesn’t replace any of it). The added mass in the cylinder is harder to heat up, so the combustion events have lower peak temperatures. The lower temperatures prevent the O2 and N2 from splitting and combining. Even though the exhaust is hot, about 600°C (or 1112°F), it's much cooler than the 1300°C required to make NOx.
In summary, the exhaust adds mass, increasing the heat capacitance of the mixture (i.e. making it harder to heat up the mixture in the cylinder). Peak temperatures are lower, reducing NOx formation, which ultimately reduces smog in the environment.
The reason EGR improves fuel economy is because it reduces the engine's pumping losses. For the cylinder to move down on the intake stroke, the piston is working against the intake manifold vacuum. Another way to say it is that the vacuum above the piston tries to prevent the piston from going down. EGR increases the mass in the intake; more mass means higher pressure, or less vacuum. Now the piston has less resistance during each intake stroke, which results in better gas mileage.
The purpose of EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) is to reduce the NOx emissions. Air is mainly made of oxygen and nitrogen (O2 and N2). At temperatures above 1300°C (2372°F), these molecules split apart and rejoin with each other to make nitrogen oxides (like NO, NO2, etc...). The nitrogen oxides contribute to smog formation.
EGR puts a portion of the exhaust gas back into the intake manifold, so it mixes with the fuel and air. (Note that the exhaust adds to the fuel and air; it doesn’t replace any of it). The added mass in the cylinder is harder to heat up, so the combustion events have lower peak temperatures. The lower temperatures prevent the O2 and N2 from splitting and combining. Even though the exhaust is hot, about 600°C (or 1112°F), it's much cooler than the 1300°C required to make NOx.
In summary, the exhaust adds mass, increasing the heat capacitance of the mixture (i.e. making it harder to heat up the mixture in the cylinder). Peak temperatures are lower, reducing NOx formation, which ultimately reduces smog in the environment.
The reason EGR improves fuel economy is because it reduces the engine's pumping losses. For the cylinder to move down on the intake stroke, the piston is working against the intake manifold vacuum. Another way to say it is that the vacuum above the piston tries to prevent the piston from going down. EGR increases the mass in the intake; more mass means higher pressure, or less vacuum. Now the piston has less resistance during each intake stroke, which results in better gas mileage.
