I did the 4x4wire ADD Defeat. In the write-up it says you can remove all VSV equipt. What ALL does this mean I can delete, specifically? I don't want to remove any vacuum lines or electrical equip. that also pertains to something else. Thanks.

 

115 people have read this but nobody knows exactly what this consists of?

 

You can take off alllll the vacuum lines, the air reservoir thing in the wheel well. All the vacuum lines are different from other systems. You just need something to cap them off with.

 

Thanks. What about the electrical connections going to the VSV? Is that the VSV, in it's entirety, that the vacuum lines go to on the passenger fender? I'm unsure of what exactly the VSV totally consists of.

 

So I removed the canister & all the associated vacuum lines. What do I do w/the electronic plugs & VSV's?

 

You can just leave them in. They arent going to hurt anything. Or take them out. They arent required now.

 

Some of the VSV's on the passenger fender are for other items (EGR for one)....?

 

Right I`m new on this 4x4 thing, So I got a 95 22re 4runner and it have this ADD system, I also saw the article ADD defeat but as i`m new on this i was wondering if i get the ADD ssytem out how will I change the 2wd for 4wd? I mean how will it work? How will it engage?
If I get this thing off and the car runs better and I doesn`t need to do any adptation why the was this ADD sytem made for?
Sorry for the dumb question.....

 

There's nothing wrong with a properly functioning ADD system on a "stockish" truck. Its really a nice convenience. The problem comes when people crank on the torsion bars and create bad CV angles. Then the ADD system, which uses full time flanges instead of locking hubs, tears up boots more quickly. If you defeat the ADD and thus lock the front drive axles to the diff all the time, your front driveshaft will turn all the time creating drag on the highway. If you defeat the ADD, then you'll want to add manual hubs to your truck. The best of both worlds in ADD and manual locking hubs, so you can unlock nearly any piece of your front end to suit your condition. Then there are those who have or swap in a non-ADD front end because it's a one piece unit with no locking collar (the idea is that 1 piece is stronger) and run manual hubs. Confused yet?

Here's more reading on the subject http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...tem-19259.html

 

I just put locking hubs on mine and left the rest alone for now. Works great!

 

I have photos of defeating the ADD system and putting the older axle tube in my build thread. I have not yet ripped out all the vacuum system.

Did you photograph what you removed?

 

That's what I have for now. Put the Aisin hubs on. Would like to throw on a non-ADD IFS as I've heard it's stronger, like vasinvictor said. I still might take apart the axle where the collar is and put a clamp in there like I've seen on threads on this subject....

The more I think about it, I might take that and other parts off my 88 and scrap it....???? I don't know.

 

So, studied a little more about the ADD system and figure something easier then defeating the ADD system, well my ADD vac valves were all bad so I just took the 2 hoses that comes from the diff and sent then to inside the car and then took the one hose that comes from the head intake manifold and send to inside the car too, and inside the car I put a "y" conector on the one hose that comes from the intake and the other 2 "outs" from the "Y" I put a manual vac valve on each end, and then pluged the hoses that comes from the diff, so now I have a kind of manual hubs but I change the 4x2 or 4x4 by inside of the car, I just need to close one hose and open the other. And now it works perfectly I will take some pictures of what I did.
I just know that now I don`t worry anymore about it, I don`t have electrical valves to worry about anymore.

Thanks everybody!

 

My ADD works great and no complaints with the system in a stock truck. Though no idea personally how it operates with bigger tires or lift but i do see it being a weak and troublesome point. It really seems useless to me as my buddies truck with manual hubs and no add system works just as good. I personally will leave it for a but when i go to 4" lift and 35's but i do see it being deleted soon after. I mean who wants there vac lines ripped off the diff by a stick and lossing 4wd in a trail? Lol or breaking a cv and not being able to unlock the hubs and move to a better place to repair it. ADD is fine for a stock DD kinda truck but i dont think it belongs on somthing that gets wheeled often.

 

Well to be truth the lift and the tires doesn`t do anything to the ADD system, and i think that you don`t need to delete it if it is working, I mean to get the hoses of the diff by a rock or something you need to almost smash your diff into a rock, the vac lines are very close to the diff.
If it is working fine don`t take it out. Just my opnion. oooo and to move the diff you just need to blow some air into one of the vac lines. I mean if it break you can get a small compressor (like a tire compressor) and blow some air into the blue hose (4x4) so then it goes to 4x4 or in the other hose it goes to 4x2 and then after that, you close the hoses so the air doesn`t go out and then go to a better place to fix.......

 

No i doubt it will fail but still its just another thing to go wrong in an already weak front end. I had one of the lines slip off after pulling the engine amd doing HG's as i guess it wasnt on very well after that and it i lost 4wd right on a trail were i needed 4 low real bad. Not a big deal since i knew what it was but still a tad anoying. And as a guy who has replaced broken cv's on a river bed it was alot easyer to unlock the hubs get out of the mud and change it on a river bed. So for me i will atleast have manual hubs as i expect to break cv's and bust differentials with 35's lol