EludeR

Hi All,

I am new here, i've owned a 92 pickup with a 3vze a 5yrs ago (used to lurk the forums). Now I have a 94 4runner (3vze as well). I am doing a tune up on the truck. Drivers side went well (I thought this was going to be the biggest pain in the ass). Cylinder #1 however is a huge pita. I am using a 3/8" wiggle extension to get to it. I had to pull the first plug out due to stripped threads . I tried installing another new plug in there and to my amazement it's still misfiring a bit. Is there any tips you guys can give on getting this done along with the rest of the passenger side ? EGR system among est other things make this more difficult than it should be. I am going to try and tackle this with an inspection mirror and hand tightening.

sechott

No. 1 spark plug is the closest to the battery right? That its the easiest one I find to get to.if you are loping at idle take off and clean all the intake routing pieces, including the throttle body. Check for codes, if you have code 51 most likely you need to adjust the TPS. I just got my 3vze running great so maybe I can help. I used MAF cleaner they sell at auto chain stores to clean throttle body and the flapper inside the air filter housing. That made a huge improvement.

EludeR

Hey,

Yeah #1 is closest to battery. I know the other 2 are going to be a bigger pita to get to. It sounds like its misfiring at lower rpms.I know the EGR valve is shot. At higher rpm's it sounds fine. However I started it after replacing every plug and went on a short drive. It didn't start doing this until I replaced this one. I pulled it out and found that the threads were stripped... so i replaced it again and same problem. Truck throws no codes or anything. Ill get the MAF cleaner. Thanks alot for your advice.

ksti

Its not that bad, insert a short wiggle extension and socket without ratchet connected and then just add a couple of long extensions attach ratchet and it should be alot easier. You can do it. Good luck.

kuzbro

I'm somewhat new to Toyota trucks, but have replaced the spark plugs one time. I do remember the work not being as bad as anticipated. I used the wobbly joint with a pivoting rachet and various extensions. I removed the intake hoses, and maybe a few other things but nothing major. The best tip I have is to stick the new spark plugs in a straight piece of fuel hose to get them started. I also use NGK platinum plugs.

EludeR

The only thing i didn't hvae is a pivoting ratchet... i'll add that to my tools wishlist once i move into my new place (Garage will be nice). I ended up just taking it into a shop... didn't have the time to mess with it. They ended up spending 5hrs just replacing the plugs. Guy said the pass side was a major pain in the ass. (had them re-replace the drivers side while they were at it). Truck runs 100% better now... but it threw a CEL shortly after picking it back up . Going to get a scanner and see what it is.. hopefully its just a EGR code.

ksti

I don't why you need a scanner tool. That if i'm not mistaken is for 96 and later. Rather then giving you a lengthy explanation try this web site. www.troublecodes.net I also think 5 hours to replace 6 spark plugs is scary. That must have cost ya. They probably unpluged something and didn't check for codes after completion or spent 4 of the 5 hours trying to clear the code but didn't know how.

EludeR

Bah, sorry so used to have an OBD-II vehicle. I guess i need a paperclip now, and get to counting CEL flashes. I am not 100% sure what happened. I know the EGR was on its way out if not already. Not sure if our OBD systems will CEL on that.I am pretty sure I am probably due for an O2 sensor replacement soon as well. All stuff I can take care of on my own. The CEL didn't come up until like 5 or 6 hrs after i left there. Truck runs fine, but stupid rich. Other problem I have is my psteering fluid is leaking (don't know where) i assume the PAIR system needs some looking at. The truck runs so rich too that if your standing next to the tailpipe it will make your eyes tear.

scope103

Try to do things in order. Running the truck "stupid rich" isn't doing those brand-new plugs any good. (And it sure won't do a new O2 sensor much good either, unless the cause is the sensor itself, which it probably is not.) Remember that "EGR" is a system, not one component, so if you have a problem there you won't fix anything by throwing parts at it.

Hone your diagnostic skills, and Good luck!

EludeR

Hit the nail on the head. First thing is first... look up the codes its throwing and go from there.

Thanks