Crossover steering rubbing leaf springs
10-01-2016, 12:36 AM
#1
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Crossover steering rubbing leaf springs
Hey I have a 1994 Toyota pickup 5spd 4x4 sas, so the problem I'm having is that I added 4degree shims and now the steering arms arm angled lower then the springs. Has anyone run into this problem or does anyone know what I could do to make it work maybe a different type of tie rod and currently have fj80 ends
10-01-2016, 11:30 AM
#6
Generally you shouldn't shim front axle.
X2 what is reason for shims.
-- correct pinion angle?? 2 solution I know of change to single cardigan style shaft. Flanges on t-case and pinion should be close to parallel. Second is cut and rotate knuckles.
-- to correct steering geometry? Change shackle length (easiest), change front hanger height. Or cut and rotate knuckle.
X2 what is reason for shims.
-- correct pinion angle?? 2 solution I know of change to single cardigan style shaft. Flanges on t-case and pinion should be close to parallel. Second is cut and rotate knuckles.
-- to correct steering geometry? Change shackle length (easiest), change front hanger height. Or cut and rotate knuckle.
10-01-2016, 03:15 PM
#7
Generally you shouldn't shim front axle.
X2 what is reason for shims.
-- correct pinion angle?? 2 solution I know of change to single cardigan style shaft. Flanges on t-case and pinion should be close to parallel. Second is cut and rotate knuckles.
-- to correct steering geometry? Change shackle length (easiest), change front hanger height. Or cut and rotate knuckle.
X2 what is reason for shims.
-- correct pinion angle?? 2 solution I know of change to single cardigan style shaft. Flanges on t-case and pinion should be close to parallel. Second is cut and rotate knuckles.
-- to correct steering geometry? Change shackle length (easiest), change front hanger height. Or cut and rotate knuckle.
If you shimmed it to correct d/s angle you may need to consider clearancing your d/s yokes
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10-02-2016, 05:33 AM
#11
Here's some tech on drive lines. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...line-101.shtml
if you're running 5" springs with most SAS kits; your front lift is close to 6.5". So if you have a single t-case makes for a pretty steep angle on driveshaft.
I started out out running a dual cardigan shaft (CV) but with pinion angle I had vibes at 40mph. So pulled out trusty angle finder, determined that pinion and t-case angles would allow running a single cardigan drive shaft. Vibes are gone at 40mph.
I'm about 5" front lift with dual case. Dual cases pushes t-case back 6.5" thus reducing operating angle on front drive shaft. But pushes rear t-case output back 6.5" too. So a short wheelbase rig needs changes to rear drive more than just changing length of drive shaft.
You should spec out your rig for these type questions. Many here have loads of experience on building yotas, much more than I, but lack of info makes it difficult to give accurate advice.
heading out to trails!! It's a shakedown run after rear suspension changes. Wish me luck!
if you're running 5" springs with most SAS kits; your front lift is close to 6.5". So if you have a single t-case makes for a pretty steep angle on driveshaft.
I started out out running a dual cardigan shaft (CV) but with pinion angle I had vibes at 40mph. So pulled out trusty angle finder, determined that pinion and t-case angles would allow running a single cardigan drive shaft. Vibes are gone at 40mph.
I'm about 5" front lift with dual case. Dual cases pushes t-case back 6.5" thus reducing operating angle on front drive shaft. But pushes rear t-case output back 6.5" too. So a short wheelbase rig needs changes to rear drive more than just changing length of drive shaft.
You should spec out your rig for these type questions. Many here have loads of experience on building yotas, much more than I, but lack of info makes it difficult to give accurate advice.
heading out to trails!! It's a shakedown run after rear suspension changes. Wish me luck!
10-02-2016, 01:02 PM
#12
Here's some tech on drive lines. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...line-101.shtml
if you're running 5" springs with most SAS kits; your front lift is close to 6.5". So if you have a single t-case makes for a pretty steep angle on driveshaft.
I started out out running a dual cardigan shaft (CV) but with pinion angle I had vibes at 40mph. So pulled out trusty angle finder, determined that pinion and t-case angles would allow running a single cardigan drive shaft. Vibes are gone at 40mph.
I'm about 5" front lift with dual case. Dual cases pushes t-case back 6.5" thus reducing operating angle on front drive shaft. But pushes rear t-case output back 6.5" too. So a short wheelbase rig needs changes to rear drive more than just changing length of drive shaft.
You should spec out your rig for these type questions. Many here have loads of experience on building yotas, much more than I, but lack of info makes it difficult to give accurate advice.
heading out to trails!! It's a shakedown run after rear suspension changes. Wish me luck!
if you're running 5" springs with most SAS kits; your front lift is close to 6.5". So if you have a single t-case makes for a pretty steep angle on driveshaft.
I started out out running a dual cardigan shaft (CV) but with pinion angle I had vibes at 40mph. So pulled out trusty angle finder, determined that pinion and t-case angles would allow running a single cardigan drive shaft. Vibes are gone at 40mph.
I'm about 5" front lift with dual case. Dual cases pushes t-case back 6.5" thus reducing operating angle on front drive shaft. But pushes rear t-case output back 6.5" too. So a short wheelbase rig needs changes to rear drive more than just changing length of drive shaft.
You should spec out your rig for these type questions. Many here have loads of experience on building yotas, much more than I, but lack of info makes it difficult to give accurate advice.
heading out to trails!! It's a shakedown run after rear suspension changes. Wish me luck!
You can add your trucks info to your signature, like mentioned above having the specs there help people to help you
go to your user CP
10-02-2016, 07:27 PM
#13
need to hear the details on how that was measured, because with a stock front axle, the correct front pinion angle has nothing to do with the front driveshaft angle at all.
that's because the pinion flange needs to be at about 90 degrees relative to the ground, due to the specific caster angle that's set by the knuckle ball alignment... the caster is only right when the flange is at 90 degrees, if you alter that pinion flange angle, it'll change the caster angle.
if you want to turn the front pinion upwards to gain ground clearance, you have to cut and turn the knuckles, like muddpigg said, in order to maintain the correct caster angle.
turning the pinion up on the rear axle, to point at the transfer case, is different, because there isn't any knuckle ball caster angle to worry about, the only thing you have to deal with there is mis-matched flange angles at both ends of the rear driveshaft, and the only fix for it is a dual cardan joint... ask me how i had to learn that, the hard way.
with the front pinion flange set at a 90 degree angle to the ground, it will match the 90 degree flange angle on the tcase; that 90 angle doesn't change with dual cases.
"**Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Caster influences directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear and without adjustable control arms, is not adjustable on this vehicle. With too little positive caster, steering may be touchy at high speed and wheel return-to-center may be diminished when coming out of a turn**"
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/je...ng-502001.html
that's because the pinion flange needs to be at about 90 degrees relative to the ground, due to the specific caster angle that's set by the knuckle ball alignment... the caster is only right when the flange is at 90 degrees, if you alter that pinion flange angle, it'll change the caster angle.
if you want to turn the front pinion upwards to gain ground clearance, you have to cut and turn the knuckles, like muddpigg said, in order to maintain the correct caster angle.
turning the pinion up on the rear axle, to point at the transfer case, is different, because there isn't any knuckle ball caster angle to worry about, the only thing you have to deal with there is mis-matched flange angles at both ends of the rear driveshaft, and the only fix for it is a dual cardan joint... ask me how i had to learn that, the hard way.
with the front pinion flange set at a 90 degree angle to the ground, it will match the 90 degree flange angle on the tcase; that 90 angle doesn't change with dual cases.
"**Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Caster influences directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear and without adjustable control arms, is not adjustable on this vehicle. With too little positive caster, steering may be touchy at high speed and wheel return-to-center may be diminished when coming out of a turn**"
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/je...ng-502001.html
Last edited by osv; 10-02-2016 at 07:33 PM.
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