Was doing a compression test on my 89 PU 4x4 with the 3.0L and I crossthreaded the sparkplug hole on cylinder #5 (pass side in the back). Apparently there is a reverse spark plug tap that somehow works its way from the undamaged back threads (I only cross-threaded the plug at the most a full turn before I stopped and removed). Has anyone out there used this tool and would it help me here? There is a support for a hydraulic clutch line right in the way that looks like not a lot of fun to remove but it may be necessary for room to tap. I'm thinking I'm going to have to pull the head but was planning on doing this after my annual migration anyway so if I was forced to do it now it would simply suck. Anyone with any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
BTW here is a link for the tool I was talking about. thanx again.
http://www.kalyx.com/store/proddetai...800.0/file.htm

 

Dude, that's always been one of my biggest fears...I've heard that the tool works, but alignment is important, so don't hesitate to remove anything that's in the way, like that clutch line. Let us know how it works, and good luck

 

If you can get it fixed the best thing you can do for your sparkplugs holes after this is ALWAYS use Anti Sieze!!! Whenever I change my plugs or even look at them, I apply some new antiseize to the threads. Always, every peice of aluminum I work. Exhaust studs antiseize, sparkplugs antiseize. It'll ensure the integrity of the threads in the future.

 

True dat. I've found that particularly with spark plugs, it's essential to use either your fingers to start the threads or (on the 3.4L with a deeply recessed plug) a length of fuel line that fits over the plug, or an old spark plug boot and lenght of plug wire. In this manner you can feel that the plug is threading properly (or improperly). Keep in mind that you can also get yourself into trouble with too much antisieze.
With fuel lines and stuff, I've screwed up too many times, so I always use a flare nut wrench to keep from crossing the threads. It really helps.

 

the only way that you can go wrong with antisieze is to get it on the electrode and foul the plug, or overtighten and strip the threads(antisize decreases friction and increases clamping force).

i just usually start my plugs with a socket and extension, no problems there.

 

Everybody's got their flavor. Maybe some like a big mess of antisieze. You know, you can get it in gallon tubs and apply it with a paint brush...

 

mine comes in a 8oz can with an applicator brush. lets you get a nice thin coating...i learned to use the stuff religiously when i worked in a rental yard and didn't want to waste time breaking rusted bolts off.

 

I just use the squeeze tubes, and squeeze at tiny amount and stick it on the plugs and thread it all the way in by hand, and give it probably 1/8th turn with a ratchet, and call it good.... I've worked on to many engines, where the plugs are way way over tightend.

 

I have used a spark plug hole thread chaser before with good luck.However, if you have torn out more than a few threads, your out of luck.Just make sure it goes in as straight as possible.It's critical.

 

I always use a little piece of rubber hose to get the plug started. This way you can't torque it too much without the hose slipping. Seems to work pretty well.

 

I always use an old spark plug boot to start a spark plug, or my bare hands. The tool trucks actually carry a tool that is used for this purpose, and it's essentially a spark plug boot. The idea is that the resistance that the boot holds on your plug will not overcome any cross threading, hence you'll never cross thread a spark plug. A piece of tubing works, but is too floppy for my liking. I never start ANY bolt or nut or anything threaded with a tool unless absolutely necessary, use your hands.

One tiny dab of anti-sieze is easily enough. No need to over do it. No need to overtighten, 12-20 ft lbs for most manufacturers is usually the spec if you look it up.

Most importantly, never change spark plugs in a hot engine with aluminum heads. If the plug is stuck, you can distort the threads when the engine is hot.

 

I have one of the spark plug thread tools and have used it several times with good luck. I have also had ones where the threads were cross threaded too deep for it to work properly. The last one I did I used the spark plug repair tool to start the thread in the hole. Then I had to use a regular metric tap to finish. I also used assembly lube on the tap to keep the shavings out of the cylinder. Once I was done, I rigged up a narrow plastic tube on the end of my shop vac to vaccum out anything that may have been left behind. It worked fine and was sure better than removing the head.

Good luck.

 

Man, that sucks. All I can offer is good luck.

vmax84

 

Ditto. When I had my Jacobs Ignition, I went through a trial and error phase with plug gaps, trying to find the best one. I was a pro at taking those things out of the 3.0 by the time I finished. Hand-turning a socket with an extension is the best way to get 'em started.