Does anyone know of a way to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt w/just one person.

On a side note to anyone who is trying to solve the same problem don't wedge a screwdriver in the holes of the cam sprocket to stop the crankshaft from spinning as you thighten the bolt, you will break the sprocket....I'm not willing to admit how i figured that one out.

 

There should be an access hole to your flywheel...have someone to put a screwdriver in that while you tighten the crank pulley...takes some muscling and does require 2 people. Best I know..

 

I did mine by myself with these tools:

 

Try wrapping an old bicycle tire around the pulley first and then use a pair of chain-grip vice pliers to hold it in place while you tighten it up.

Troy

 

To tighten and loosen I simply used the brakes. Put the tranny in 5th, then cut a board, 2"x1"x24" and put that between the brake pedal and that spot just in front of the drivers seat(there's a little hump there). This is assuming that the driveline is still intact.

 

I did it with the front pulley off the balancer and you can see slots around the crank bolt. Put a pry bar in one of the slots and hold it still and torque with the other hand. Just be sure not to stick the bar in too far or you bend the dust shield for the front seal.

 

Wrap several rags around the crank pulley and just hold it in place with a chain wrench.

 

thanks guys

 

I did something very similar to what MT Goat did. It just doesn't look as nice. I just used a piece of steel and cut a big hole at one end and drilled 4 other holes around the big hole. Bolt it to where the PS pulley bolts to the crank pulley, and use the other end of the peice of steel as a lever. Works fantastic, but still required some muscle. Something I whipped up on AutoCAD a while ago:

 

ill be the jacka$$ and tell you my way - i take no credit for what you break thou -- I lock a breaker bar under the edge of the frame rail and use a 12 dollar bump starter that rolls the starter ever so slowly -- never had an issue yet -- granted i cant tell you how tight it is - but i can promise mine wont be coming off for ya

 

Place a big box-end wrench on the cam sprocket bolt and rest it against the top of the head on the driver's side. Tighten away.

EDIT: Forgot - be sure you put something like a rag between the head and wrench to keep the valve cover mating surface intact.

 

FYI, I think there is some confusion here... the original question was about the crankshaft bolt, but some of the answers have dealt with the camshaft sprocket bolts.

The tool linked to on ebay will work for the camshaft sprocket bolts, but not the crankshaft (to my understanding, at least).

I'm pretty much counting on the manual transmission option (i.e. put it in 5th, engage the brakes, and torque away) that several people on this and other threads have recommended for my crankshaft bolt. I'll be finding out today or tomorrow whether that works. If not, I'm going to have to find someone around here with a welder and throw something together.

As far as the camshaft sprocket bolts, I ordered this tool:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sch96800.html

I haven't used it yet, but I'm really impressed with the apparent quality level of it. It looks like it'll make the job of putting the camshaft sprockets back on (and taking them off next time) a piece of cake.

Jason

 

Is there actually a tool made by Toyota for this? I know in the FSM, they always show a picture and call it "SST". Is that just their general name for a specialized tool?

Rob

 

Yup there sure is:

SST(Special Service Tools): 09213-70010, 09330-00021, 09213-31021

 

There are 2 SST's that work together for this:

1. A generic handle that attaches to a bunch of different application-specific SSTs

2. A specific ring-shaped SST that bolts onto the harmonic balancer to allow a person to hold it or brace it while bring the crankshaft bolt up to spec.

While I was searching for a solution (before I found out about how to do it with a manual tranny), I was able to find a source for the handle, but not for the specific ring-shaped SST.

If it doesn't work to use the transmission to provide resistance (or if I didnt' have a manual), I'd just be finding a way to make a tool. I don't think it would be too difficult... it would just require a ring with bolt holes spaced correctly and a long handle for leverage.

Jason

 

People are addressing the camshaft bolt as a point where you can hold the crank steady (timing chain). When a wrench is holding the cam steady, the crank will not turn when tightening...

BTW, those SST's are not worth the money by a long shot. Dealers charge hundreds.

 

Oops, my bad. I didn't notice that he's got the 22RE... I'm dealing with the same issue, but on the 3VZ-E, which has a belt that isn't supposed to be used in that way.

Sorry.

So (for my own curiosity's sake)... on the 22RE, the timing chain is strong enough to be used to resist the torque spec of the crankshaft bolt?

Jason

 

LOL, np. I managed to get the crank tightened using that method so I guess

 

Oops, thanks for correcting me on that Jason, I'll delete that link. I didn't notice the "cam" and was just thinking "crank"

 

I dunno... if all_terrain17's method works for the 22RE, that might be perfect!

It wouldn't work on the 3.0, though.

Jason