Hi! I am changing my water pump and timing belt on my 3zve. When the motor is TDC both the cam marks line up. The notch on the crankshaft pulley is not lined up with the zero at this point. Motor ran fine before I started the job. What do I need to do? White paint on pulley and is where the notch is.

 

Motor is a 3zve

 

Just to ask the obvious, I assume all these photos were taken before your removed anything in the valve timing route (belt, tensioner)? (Though, that's a pretty new-looking belt in the photos.)

If it runs "fine" with the crank pulley offset that far, you may have a failed harmonic balancer. There is an annular rubber ring to damp ... harmonics, and at the vintage of your vehicle that ring can fail. The outer part of the balancer (the part with the notch) can rotate against the inner part (the part keyed to the crankshaft).

Just so you know, the left and right cam pulleys are identical; they're just flipped around. But marking everything before you take it off is always a good idea!

While we're at it, how do you plan to keep the crank from turning when you remove the crank bolt? There's a fair amount of discussion in this forum about some of the appropriate shop-made tools to use.

 

I haven't removed anything except the cover. Stopped when I noticed notch was so far off. I am going to try and impact first. If that doesn't work I will read some more forums. What do you suggest? I just bought the truck and the water pump went out.

 

Should I change crank shaft seal since I'm down this far? How much more work would it be?

 

If you have a big-enough impact gun, that might work. You will have to pull out the radiator to get enough room. My preferred tool is this one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/ Someone is sure to suggest the "starter" method. I'm sure it works for them, but it was too "exciting" for me. More importantly, you don't just need to remove the crank bolt, you have to put it back in. The starter method is no help at all for the latter.

I've never done it, but here's the manual pages: http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...ne/69cylin.pdf (EG2-114) Seems a little tricky to me (with the risk of scarring the seal surface on the crank.) I'd do it if there was any evidence of a leak, otherwise not. Your choice.

 

There is a crankshaft pulley tool that does a good job that you can get on Amazon for about $30 or so. It takes the drama out of the job.