which way is the ground on the top pick?

 

My 87 pickup had sagged to about 1-2 inches below factory. I would bottom out even on small expansion joints. I went back up to just above factory, but now that I have the low profile bump stops, I think I'm goint to let them down a bit.

Edit: When it was really low, it performed poorly off road. I guess because it was resting on the stops all the time

 

Straight down, the ground. Straight up, sticks the bolt.

 

thank you so much sir mudhippy

 

I wouldn't crank my t-bars more than 1/2" over stock if any at all. I had them cranked on my '92 pickup and I always wondered why it seem to ride so rough going down the road. I was also sporting a 4" Superlift w/ 4" Springs. I'm sure that didn't help to much with the stiff ride.

 

my ride is already so stiff i figure i might as well.................. but whats the deal with the bump stops? are those the things i here when i hit a tiny little bump and my car practically dies. how do i fix that?

 

bump stops are what limit your suspension travel, and keep it within a range that your axles and steering can handle.

lower bumpstop, limits upward travel



upper bumpstop, limits downward travel

 

Damn, I nvr realized the lack of travel on the stock IFS...

Good pics AxleIke

 

Maiden, what type of wheeling are you looking to do? This can help guide your search for a lift. Example:

High speed desert/prerunner stuff: Ultimately a long travel kit, poor man's route, spacers and crank the torsion bars up high. Less poor man, 4" bracket kit mod'ed for more up travel, total poor man's crank up the t-bars alone. With this type of wheeling, CV's are going to be the least of your worries.

Slower trail stuff: Need more travel both up and down. Cranking the bars high eliminates downtravel. Also, extreme height is not desirable (ie, 4" kits) as it makes the truck more tippy which is exacerbated by cranked t-bars. Spacers are better keeping the lift around 1.5" over stock for long CV and CV boot life.

Mud: You need big tires, not much flex, do need to be able to take hard hits. A 4" bracket kit with t-bars cranked can work well.

On road ride: T-bar cranking kills it.

Frank

 

well, i saw stuff for poor man, less poor man, and total poor man. what about the broke man? lol. u can always crank the t-bars and not get an alignment and just drive it till the tires just give up and walk away, cause yea, they wouldnt fall off, they would straight up walk away. now when i went and asked a guy at a local tires shop about a cranked tbar alignment he said i couldnt go over half an inch or they couldnt realign it. lol. and inch and a half is more. whats the deal there? and also, the bumpstops, can u get those at a store somewhere? maybe an autozone or advance auto parts?

 

sdori ~ those are lots of different options to give someone all at once ... nice.

 

I would say that the tech at that shop is probably not well practiced in aligning our suspension. You can max out the suspension if you want and it will still align unless you have badly bent something. There is quite a bit of adjustment in the cams. When a shop says something to me like, "once lifted the truck can never be aligned....." I know to walk away.

Did you check out my post on how to align your own truck? It's pretty easy and best of all free.

Frank

 

i got my lowpro bumps from NWOR