I recently rebuilt my 22re. .040 new pistons, acl bearings, all new hardware, re manufactured head and crankshaft, ect, ect.

I noticed when checking the oil that it is white in color and runny. I checked compression and got 175/170/175/170psi 1-4. Would this rule out a head gasket? Could there be any other cause for water getting into my combustion chamber other than a head gasket leak? Really not looking forward to pulling the head off .


Thanks in advance,
Andrew

 

timing chain ate through block?

 

It's defiantly the head gasket... I can see water dripping down from where the block and the head meet. Probably a leak around a water jacket. Dammit.

 

you're sure its the headgasket? it could be a leaky waterpump as well.

 

Dang. That's too bad. Too late for your engine but maybe we can learn something that will help others if we can figure out what caused the headgasket failure. Some questions, if you don't mind (sorry to be asking stuff, when you have your own problems)

1. Did you check the head and block for flatness and have them surfaced?
2. What brand of headgasket?
3. What did you torque the head bolts too and did you re-torque them once the engine had been run?
4. Did you clean out the head bolt holes in the block? I've heard of bolts bottoming out on crud in the bolt holes, making you think they're tight when they're not.
Anything else you can think of?

Sorry you have to tear the head off again. I know in my case when I have to do something like that, once I grit my teeth and bear down and get to work it usually goes fast.

Good luck,
Bob

 

1. The head is a re-man, as stated earlier, and was not checked for flatness. However, I defiantly will be bringing it to my machine shop to check it this time around.
2. I cannot remember the brand of HG, but I bought it from Carquest, if that's any consolation.
3. I tq'ed the head bolts to factory specs via the FSM and did not re-tq them after running the engine.
4. I am almost positive my machinist cleaned out the holes for the head bolts, but I will defiantly run a chaser through all of them this time around. Good idea and thanks.


As for a faulty water pump it is a brand new pump i purchased with my rebuild kit from engbuilder.

I will be replacing the hardware as well as the head gasket to ensure a good seal. I do not want to have to do this again....

I already have the engine tore down and will be pulling the head off tomorrow and will report back. Thanks for the feedback and hopefully this thread will help someone.

 

I was wondering if the front cover needs to be machined due to the block surface being resurfaced.

 

I think the top of the cover has to be flush with the top of the block surface. The head will not seat properly if the cover is sticking up above the top of the block. A trial fit should show if it needs machining.

Bob

 

i had my head decked 10 ths,my cover slid right in.

 

I was thinking that head bolts are effected by more than just crud, if there is oil in the holes they can be held back from turning hydraulically, so chaser tap and blow out with air gun.

 

YES. the front cover ALWAYS needs to be mahined witht he block. I would say your carquest HG is probably the problem. and torque yer headbolts to 63 ft lbs. not 58.

btw... if you have coolant in yer oil. it is not a concern for you to have about anything getting into the combustion chamber... especially with those compression numbers.

my guess is if you didnt have the timing cover deck match... that is your problem.

 

I just got my 22R back together. After running it a short time to help break in a new cam per the cam grinder's specification, I rechecked the valve clearance and re-torqued the head bolts.

I'd very carefully torqued them prior to starting the motor and I was really surprised how loose they seemed after running only a short time. Not really loose but some of them took about a quarter turn more before reaching the same torque spec.

I think that re-torquing the head bolts after a short period of running is a crucial part of keeping a head gasket sealed.

Bob