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Coolant leak/advice on upper intake plenum removal

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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 10:27 AM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Coolant leak/advice on upper intake plenum removal

Im thinking about taking my runner to a shop. Heres the problem.

When warm theres a coolant leak either under the intake plenum or behind it. Im guessing either the #3 coolant bypass hose or some other hose in the back.

I have very basic hand tools but I do know my way around an engine and how to turn a wrench, ive been helping my friend with the rebuild of his 3vz so I know what it looks like under everything. The biggest socket i have is a 14 and that goes the same for a wrench.

So you think I would be able to take off the upper intake plenum, or at least move it out of the way to see where my leak is?

Last edited by Tubbyfatty; Oct 7, 2009 at 10:57 AM.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 10:33 AM
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/v...acement-52695/
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 10:52 AM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
What should I replace while im under there?

PCV? Any other hoses other then the ones that are leaking?
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 11:12 AM
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you will need a 22mm(I think) wrench to pull the egr, I usually just loosen the big nuts, and leave the tubes in place. Once you get that off, you should be able to leave almost everything on the dpass side of the plenum hooked up, not the pcv hose however, and maybe a couple other things, but the small vacuum lines can stay, then loosen the 8 bolts, and flop it over your fender. If you need to pull the fuel rails however, you'll some larger wrenches to pull all the bajo bolts.

Def replace the pcv, and valve cover gaskets if they leak at all.

Last edited by Team420; Oct 7, 2009 at 11:15 AM.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 11:23 AM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Alright thanks. I guess ill just take off everything i can think of and then just watch all the hoses and wires while i flop it over.

Do you think that "block" that the other end of the #3 bypass hose connects to could leak? It has like 2 wire connectors on it and 2 coolant hoses on it.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 12:15 PM
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From: Abington, PA
Originally Posted by Team420
you will need a 22mm(I think) wrench to pull the egr, I usually just loosen the big nuts, and leave the tubes in place. Once you get that off, you should be able to leave almost everything on the dpass side of the plenum hooked up, not the pcv hose however, and maybe a couple other things, but the small vacuum lines can stay, then loosen the 8 bolts, and flop it over your fender. If you need to pull the fuel rails however, you'll some larger wrenches to pull all the bajo bolts.

Def replace the pcv, and valve cover gaskets if they leak at all.
To add - I would also remove the throttle body. There are 2 coolant hoses hooked up on there with those snap clips and are a pain to get to.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 12:20 PM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Cant I just leave the TB hooked up like in that link you posted?
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Tubbyfatty
Cant I just leave the TB hooked up like in that link you posted?
You can but it looked it he took the hose off that they go to. One leads to the front end of the motor (near the fuel pressure regulator) and the other is back on the firewall somewhere (possibly toward the heater core).
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
What would be easier? haha. TB on or off?
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 01:13 PM
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Off, less weight, more room. ITs only 4 bolts, two hoses and throttle cable.. you can clean out the TB easier too
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 01:34 PM
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From: the great Maine wilderness
yeah...sorry. Def pull the tb off... it makes it 100 times easier to pull the hoses at the bottom(and put them back) if the tb is loose from the plenum.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 01:41 PM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
So TB off haha.

Any more tips?
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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just take your time and do it right. If you see that something needs to be replaced...replace it. It helped me to mark any wire or hoses I did take off, so I could remember where they came from, I even took some pix to help.
I had the plenum and intake mani off my runner just last year to change the knock sensor wire, and didnt replace the sensor, or the valve cover gaskets while I was in there. Today...I'm pulling it all apart again to replace the knock sensor, and the valve cover gaskets. The v cover on the driver side was leaking so bad, it created a vacuum leak, and caused the engine to have no power. Which is why I say do the v cover gasket while your in there.
Good luck.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 02:39 PM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
I dont think my valve covers are leaking but I can see the orange seal going around it. FIPG from toyota? So i think they havent been on there for long but Ill prolly replace em.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:14 PM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Should I go to napa or the dealer? Im going to the dealer for the #3 bypass hose but are napas gaskets the same as the dealers?
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:18 PM
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Harbor Freight has a good deal on long handled needle nose pliers with the noses bent in various angles. I was able to replace my hoses without removing anything. Due to the pliers.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:20 PM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
The thing is im not 100% sure its just that hose in the back.

Eh, its worth a shot, ill try and replace just that hose and see if it fixes it.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:25 PM
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From: the great Maine wilderness
Ya...if its just that hose... U should be able to change it with the long needle nose pliers. I think mine have a 90* angle... I also have the long straight ones, and one with a 45*. I think I used the 90* and the straight ones
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:29 PM
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crawl under it with the engine running and, with a spot light, and you should be able to see it leaking.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:31 PM
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From: Hillsboro, OR
when does that hose get coolant? All the time or when it gets warm?
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