Control Arm Bushing replacement?
09-13-2006, 07:28 AM
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Control Arm Bushing replacement?
Has anyone actually completed an Upper Control Arm (UCA) bushing replacement?? How about a Lower Control Arm (LCA) bushing replacement??
No, MarcP's SAS doesn't count!
How about pros & cons of Polyurethane vs. rubber??
I have the '86 FSM and it calls for SST 09710-26010, Front Suspension Bushing Tool set. The only Google hit in English that I got on it was here, so it appears that Lexus was still using the toolset in 2004. The price it lists is about $317, though. OUCH!
If you tear down the complete front end, it looks fairly straightforward to replace the bushings with the toolset and a press.
No, MarcP's SAS doesn't count!
How about pros & cons of Polyurethane vs. rubber??
I have the '86 FSM and it calls for SST 09710-26010, Front Suspension Bushing Tool set. The only Google hit in English that I got on it was here, so it appears that Lexus was still using the toolset in 2004. The price it lists is about $317, though. OUCH!
If you tear down the complete front end, it looks fairly straightforward to replace the bushings with the toolset and a press.
Last edited by 86Original; 09-13-2006 at 07:46 AM. Reason: grammar
09-13-2006, 07:37 AM
#2
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I replaced the bushings upper and lower on my '92 about a year ago when I did a front end rebuild... PITA. Those things are REALLY pressed in there, I ended up just taking my control arms to a shop and had them take out the old ones and put the new ones in (only cost $25). Replacing them is way worth it though, mine were in bad shape and my front end wouldn't align. Replaced them and got a stronger idler arm, now it aligns perfectly.
The bushings themselves are pretty expensive, I think front bushings are like $60 ea. and rears are $70 ea... As for poly, IDK but I would assume they would last longer and be somewhat stronger than the rubbers.
The bushings themselves are pretty expensive, I think front bushings are like $60 ea. and rears are $70 ea... As for poly, IDK but I would assume they would last longer and be somewhat stronger than the rubbers.
09-13-2006, 07:44 AM
#4
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The poly will squeek a lot unless you lube them up good, I've found dielectric grease works the best with graphite powder sprinkled all over the d-grease. I think both will last a long time.
09-13-2006, 07:46 AM
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What do you mean mine doesnt count??:cry:
I was going to change mine, and actually ordered the Energy Suspension kit. After calling around, and finding out how much labor is involved I decided against it and SAS'd mine.
It is a huge job, and I hear that getting the old ones out is a PITA...It may be easier if you buy some used control arms and replace the bushings in them, then just swap the control arms out. That way if it does not work as planned, your truck will not be out of commission.
I was going to change mine, and actually ordered the Energy Suspension kit. After calling around, and finding out how much labor is involved I decided against it and SAS'd mine.
It is a huge job, and I hear that getting the old ones out is a PITA...It may be easier if you buy some used control arms and replace the bushings in them, then just swap the control arms out. That way if it does not work as planned, your truck will not be out of commission.
09-13-2006, 07:50 AM
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What do you mean mine doesnt count??:cry:
I was going to change mine, and actually ordered the Energy Suspension kit. After calling around, and finding out how much labor is involved I decided against it and SAS'd mine.
It is a huge job, and I hear that getting the old ones out is a PITA...It may be easier if you buy some used control arms and replace the bushings in them, then just swap the control arms out. That way if it does not work as planned, your truck will not be out of commission.
I was going to change mine, and actually ordered the Energy Suspension kit. After calling around, and finding out how much labor is involved I decided against it and SAS'd mine.
It is a huge job, and I hear that getting the old ones out is a PITA...It may be easier if you buy some used control arms and replace the bushings in them, then just swap the control arms out. That way if it does not work as planned, your truck will not be out of commission.
What color? Doesn't the black have graphite in it to prevent sqeaking?
Isn't it pre-lubed? If so, does it need more?
Do you have your LCA/UCAs still for sale? I wonder if they'd fit my '86?
As far as the labor, it won't be much more since I need to probably replace my (factory) ball joints, definitely the (factory) CV boots, grease my wheel bearings, definitely replace the seals in my front diff... let's see. What else do I need to replace?...
Last edited by 86Original; 09-13-2006 at 07:57 AM. Reason: more questions
09-13-2006, 08:13 AM
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My old parts went to the scrap yard...I paid like $45.00 for the kit...
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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09-13-2006, 08:50 AM
#10
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I know that poly bushings offer imporved longevity and stiffer performance in shocks and swaybar applications, I would imagine the effects would be similar for this one.
09-13-2006, 09:01 AM
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me and a friend replaced the ones on his 87 a couple of years ago. he went with the poly bushings because (as stated above) the OEM ones were too expensive. The bad thing about the poly ones is they do NOT come with the inner sleeve. You will need to get that fron the ones you are replacing. The entire job was a major PITA.
The front end rides much better than before and it handles corners a little better also.
Since then, he has constantly complained about the squeaks in the front. he did grease them up, but they still make some noise. he HATEs little squeaks...
The front end rides much better than before and it handles corners a little better also.
Since then, he has constantly complained about the squeaks in the front. he did grease them up, but they still make some noise. he HATEs little squeaks...
09-13-2006, 09:42 AM
#12
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Yes, they will cycle (flex) smoother and won't squeak if they are lubed up. But here's the catch, it's very hard to get any lube in there once they are on, (even if you have zerks) so you must do it before you put them in. That's the reason for the dielectric grease, it is silicone based and doesn't dry out, and graphite powder adds a little insurance.
I was able to remove my old LCA bushings in a huge vise with a 3 foot cheater bar and a BFH but you need to find or make a spacer just the right size to press them out.
I was able to remove my old LCA bushings in a huge vise with a 3 foot cheater bar and a BFH but you need to find or make a spacer just the right size to press them out.
09-13-2006, 10:34 AM
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Here's the part numbers for the bushings with ToyotaPartSales prices (each):
48061-35011 LCA bushing x 4 $39.73
48632-26010 Front UCA bushing x 2 $21.84
48635-26010 Rear UCA bushing x 2 $35.37
Ball Joints:
43350-39045 Upper ball joint RH $49.15
43360-39075 Upper ball joint LH $49.15
43330-39195 Lower ball joint RH $47.00
43340-39175 Lower ball joint LH $47.00
The current factory parts have lasted me 20 years. Poly are much cheaper. If greased right, are they worth it?
09-13-2006, 10:50 AM
#14
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Well, if my freind had to do it all over again, he would go with the stock replacements. He has said that many times!
I have seen the poly bushings wear out prematurely if they are not greased properly.
I have seen the poly bushings wear out prematurely if they are not greased properly.
09-13-2006, 02:53 PM
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Yes, they will cycle (flex) smoother and won't squeak if they are lubed up. But here's the catch, it's very hard to get any lube in there once they are on, (even if you have zerks) so you must do it before you put them in. That's the reason for the dielectric grease, it is silicone based and doesn't dry out, and graphite powder adds a little insurance.
I was able to remove my old LCA bushings in a huge vise with a 3 foot cheater bar and a BFH but you need to find or make a spacer just the right size to press them out.
I was able to remove my old LCA bushings in a huge vise with a 3 foot cheater bar and a BFH but you need to find or make a spacer just the right size to press them out.
HMMM. Can't seem to make up my mind on the poly vs. factory.
09-13-2006, 03:58 PM
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09-13-2006, 04:05 PM
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I would not go OEM, just wasting time. If you don't like the squeek, put poly in the lower arms, ONLY the UPPER arm bushings will squeek. So here are the reasons NOT to go OEM.
1. PRICE!
2. Poly improves the handling.
3. Poly lasts longer and tolerates harsher conditions.
4. There is NOTHING to press out of the arms.
5. The rubber bushings bind under flex, poly does not.
I thought it was a pretty easy job when I changed mine. I would also recommend the Downey bushings, they are a little harder than any other poly bushings I've seen. Also to get the old bushings out, just soak the bushings in gas for a day, then with caution take a propane/butane torch to the rubber. Yeah I know what you all will say but it worked great from my memory of 7 years ago. :fireman: Before you put any poly bushings in, coat the crap out of them with the proper silicon and if you need more places like AutoZone carry the silicon for poly bushings. The main diff bettwen it and the di-electric is the di-electric is not as tacky and is more susceptible to water washout.
1. PRICE!
2. Poly improves the handling.
3. Poly lasts longer and tolerates harsher conditions.
4. There is NOTHING to press out of the arms.
5. The rubber bushings bind under flex, poly does not.
I thought it was a pretty easy job when I changed mine. I would also recommend the Downey bushings, they are a little harder than any other poly bushings I've seen. Also to get the old bushings out, just soak the bushings in gas for a day, then with caution take a propane/butane torch to the rubber. Yeah I know what you all will say but it worked great from my memory of 7 years ago. :fireman: Before you put any poly bushings in, coat the crap out of them with the proper silicon and if you need more places like AutoZone carry the silicon for poly bushings. The main diff bettwen it and the di-electric is the di-electric is not as tacky and is more susceptible to water washout.
Last edited by Bear80; 09-13-2006 at 04:09 PM.
06-15-2009, 07:42 PM
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Lower Control Arm Bushings - Isuzu, sim. to Yoda
Where to begin. After I tore the whole front end of my pickup to replace BJs, TREnds & a CV axle, figured I'd RE&RE the LCA bushings too. Uh huh. Yeah, never do this. They "squeaked" and some mechanics told me it was these bushings. Ever read that children's book about how this duck character tears his whole house apart looking for an ant ..and never does find it? Well, that's when I found this thread (above). Let's see, 1 out of 4 bolts came out easily. #2 bent the LCA cos the head is sticked good to the LCA metal, so weird why and how (still soaking in penetrant). #3 of 4 refuses to budge, and believe both H&HW have come. Now #4, shamedly, I a-l-m-o-s-t wrecked my left side bushing boss (1 of 2 that a typical LCA attaches to the frame via). Respect to Vital22 who was online - Welder is coming tomorrow. Oh, and the supposed "Factory" bushings are encased in steel and these things are no way going to fit. They're 3/16" too big in diameter. So custom order Poly bushings it is, except of course they don't make them for Isuzu. Ever try calling Energy Suspension from Canada? They made fun of my parts guy and hung up on him, saying Well of course we don't have that, it's a Canadian car. He's like, whatev's, those guys always give us a hard time for being Canadian. MDDFs, don't they know we build like half of the Fords, GMs, and Yoda's in NA? (there is No Difference in make/models across the border)
Good news is I took pics and can assist those MDDFing their pickup/SUV front end from the brink of poochedness
My PITA, your gain ..but later,
-back to the PITA.
Good news is I took pics and can assist those MDDFing their pickup/SUV front end from the brink of poochedness
My PITA, your gain ..but later,
-back to the PITA.
