I'm a little confused on this part. So put t-pins in each relay female plug and test the voltage from the pin to the battery ground?

 

skip the drop test. Just re check the voltage at the ECU, you've done this one before, if it's still low compared to battery voltage we can revisit the where, how, and why.

 

Ok i'll post the updated info as soon as I get off work.

 

 

12.6 is normal. What does it read while cranking?

 

 

better than I expected but probably low enough to stop it from starting. It's going to want a jump probably.. I expected it would be low from the readings the other day, low twelve followed by the high 14

 

 

only if it is still under warranty

It's been really cold, a drained battery is more likely to freeze and get damaged than a fully charged one, and hasn't been getting lots of charge time and has gotten lots of drain from the testing.

 

 

A 20ft' set of jumper cables comes in really handy, can jump start most rigs by just getting near the rear bumper.

If you can get cables to it five or ten minutes will get you going.

 

 

Well schucks after typing 2 full paragraphs it times out and lost it. so again: I prommied you voltage checks and fuel pressure. Voltage checks will have to wait due to my having low voltage last night and waiting for my wife to come home so I can jump my truck. Fuel pressure was 39psi at cranking and 35 when not cranking. I could not get it to fire up last night even after being jumped. even the AFM delete then plug in trick did not work. I did however get a call yesterday from the doc saying I have strept throat so thats fun. I took friday off to do nothing but work on the truck so either tonight or tomorrowi will have the updated ECU voltage checks for you.
I did want to re-tackle the issue of a possible flooding. it makes sense that if the truck starts and runs great cold then once warm is getting to much fuel then dies. Possibility 1: cold start injector is leaking(even though its unplugged) Possibility 2: coolent sensor next to the cold start injector time switch is giving motor mixed signals.
What to check? maybe pull a plug and see if its wet? Pull intake and see if intake galleys are wet (they were last time I pulled the intake). Ideas? suggestions?
Again I very much so appreciate all the Help and sorry for not grabbing the voltage checks.

 

Why is your cold start injector unplugged? You did not think this is part of why it would not start in the cold?

Need more details on the wet intake. "You have to put us in front of the truck."

To clear a flood condition, unplug cold start injector, pull efi fuse, crank engine with throttle pedal to the floor. (Crank for ten to fifteen seconds, let it cool off for sixty to avoid heating of starter and fusible links ect, then repeat.) Plug those items back in and try to start it normally. If it doesn't start verify spark.

 

Ok so I can clear this up and eliminate this as a possibility, What is the color wire for the coolant sensor the inlet in between the 2-3 fuel injectors? What is the color wire going to the top radiator hose inlet tube coolant sensor? Both at the ECU and the sensor connection.
From what I am gathering at the ECU one is TSW and the other is THW correct?

 

I only unplugged the CSI after started to test if it was a issue of cold start injector time switch going bad. When would i do this test? In a no start position or after running normal?

 

So After work today and tomorrow my goal is to identify TSW and THW and verify they are operational as well as to do a flooding test after I get updated ECU voltage for # 1,2,3,6 and 11.

 

You test if the CSI is leaking by pulling it away from the intake (leave it plugged in, leave it plumbed to fuel), like in the video, power up the fuel pump and look at the injector. There is a spec for so many drop over a span of time, neither number I remember, as long as it's not a trickle or worse I wouldn't worry about it.

The picture is of the wet your are concerned about? Looks like oil from here, from the positive crank pressure valve (PCV), fuel would have evaporated while you were doing all that wiring.

 

ok I will pull the CSI with everything plugged in and check for a leak. Would hot or cold make a difference? If no leak then next step would be coolant temp sensor to ECU next to time switch?

 

we have been over the wiring a few times already.

Put your meter to the beeping continuity mode, unplug wire from the sensor, Clip probe to the wire in the engine bay, take the other probe to the ECU, when you get a beep take a photo.. Show us where it goes and what color it is. There is absolutely no better way to be sure what wire goes to what.

TSW, is/was in the loom between the intake runners. Think it's typically brown or green.

THW, is/was in the front loom. From memory its with the CSIsw and tps.

Get us a photo of the sensor between the cylinders. I think at some point you said you have an aftermarket temp guage there?