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johnperrone11, do some searching for "ADD conversion" and "manual hub conversion". Lots of great info to be found on the forum and via google.

Even if you had 31's i'd still recommend a rear truss. It offers protection, strength, peace of mind, and keeps your drop arms/frame from bending.

Three companies sell them...

1. Sonoran Steel: "Beefy Truss" https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73531

2. Total Chaos: "Weld On Frame Truss" http://www.offroadsolutions.com/pro..._suspension.htm

3. Downey: "IFS Truss" http://www.downeyoff-road.com/Chass...nents/index.htm

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Try eBay and www.yotayard.com

johnperrone11

Okay, the truss bar eems to be a sound investment. I read a lot of feedback on those aisin hubs, and not much of it's really all that good. Seems to be some problems with them. I found a pretty good article on Warn Vs. Milemarker; www.offroad.com/chevy/reviews/mm-vs-warn . The milemarkers win, in my opinion. So here's the next Q: Who's done this conversion, and what do I need besides the MM premium's. Found them at Summit for $95. Everywhere seems to want at least $140 for them. I think this will be the very first thing I do, after I slap in both my new CV axles that have been sitting in the back of my runner for a month now. :pat:

cootees

Woh, where are you getting these facts? I believe most of us on the board would have to say that aisin hubs are the choice for yotas. Milemarker hubs and the warn standard hubs are on the bottom of the yota hub list. Do yourself a favor and get either the aisin hubs or the warn premiums.. I have not seen a single post where someone was complaining about the aisins.

tc

The panhard drop arm is critical if you have more than 3" of lift. The panhard arm attaches to the frame on the passenger side and the axle on the driver's side. With that much lift, the rear axle will not be centered on the truck (it will be shifted to the passenger side) as the panhard bar is too far down in it's arc.

There is no way you can get 33x12.50's on there (done properly) for $500 IMHO. You need: option 2 + bodylift + IFS brace + panhard drop + manual hubs. You should also seriously consider gearing (and while you're in there, may as well do a locker too). This place seems real good at spending other people's money sometimes! LOL

All of these reasons are why I went with 33x10.50 instead of 12.50. You don't need all this lift JUST to fit the tires - don't need any actually. So you can do the necessary mods over time. I figure by the time these tires wear out, I will have everything ready for 33x12.50 or even 35's, but I can roll on 33's (and the extra inch of ground clearance) now.

johnperrone11

tc,
Yeah, I'm definetly geting the ph drop bracket, even if I only go with minimal lift. Not sure what r&p gears I have yet. Yup, a locker has already been procured; I went with the lockrite. I like the idea of 33x10.50's over the 12.50's, regardless of the lift factor. I live in MI and the 10.50's will do much better in the snow. I have 15x9" eaton crawlers, w/ a little backspacing. I think it's 3.75", or something like that, so I need the extra little bit of clearance the body lift will provide. I'm also not afraid to trim the body or bumpers. I do think I'm going the spend the extra $$ to fit the 33's. If I go with 32"s, it'll just look to small after a couple weeks. They seem to shink the more you look at 'em.
I would like to hear more about the aisin's, though. I can't say I'm totally convinced yet. I saw a thread on hear about problems with the Aisin's. I'll try to find it again.

cootees

If you find that thread post it up. I am running 32x11.50's right now on the stock suspension with only rubbing at a full turn. $500 to fit 33x12.50's I think is very doable. Heck you could just go all body lift if you wanted to to fit 33's. My lift is going on this sat. so I will get pictures and show you what it will look like with 32's. The route I have chosen is lc coils, bj spacers, skyjacker shocks, ome stabilizer and 4crawlers panhard bracket. I also do have aisin hubs which will help on the wear of the axles. All in all with the hubs I have around $400 invested in my lift(including my hubs) and it's ready to put on. Here is the breakdown.

LC Coils ($35 yes, I got a good deal, yotatech)
BJ Spacers + OME Stabilizer (somewhere around $180 with shipping from trdparts4u)
4Crawler Panhard drop bracket (somewhere around $70 including express shipping)
Aisin manual hubs ($65 ebay)
Gaskets and o-rings for the hubs($17 from the dealer)
Skyjacker Shocks ($35/piece from summit)
Rear brake hose($13 from autozone)

Just keep your eyes open. Look for good deals and you can do this lift easily for under $500

hokiruu

this thread is a huge help to me thanks guys! i'm new and i love yotatech already!

s_wall98

If you decide to go with Skyjacker shocks, www.ntwonline.com is running a special, Hydros for $29.95 and Nitros for $34.95, both with free shipping. Pretty good deal.
I went with the Nitros, and havent been disappointed.

91 4Runner

These are pics of my 91 on 32's (32"x11.50" on the facory rims) which when new measured almost 31 3/4". No lift of any kind, and after I removed the bent valance I had no rubbing....

Rim to fender is...
Front 14.5"
Rear 13.5"
Tires


Stance


So really no lift is requires, but believe me I am doing the same as you, "go big or go home"

johnperrone11

tc,
Yeah, the panhard seems to be a sound investment. All Pro Offroad has a panhard lift bracket that welds to the axle housing. I still haven't seen any feedback on these All Pro 1.5" coils. Is anyone out there running them or anything else from All Pro? A locker is already being procured. I went with the Lockrite. It seems to be best for my applications. I also like the idea of the 33x10.50's over the 12.50's anyway. I live in MI, and the 10.50's will be much better in the snow. But I need the extra little bit of clearance the 1" bod lift will provide. I have some 15x9" rims w/ a little back spacing. I think they're 3.25" or somewhere around there. I'm not afraid to do a little trimming, either.
Okay, you guys convinced me on the Aisin hubs. I just got some off ebay for $24, SHIPPED! Hey, go with what works, right.
Thank you guys for all your great feedback and advice.

s_wall98

$24....shipped, thats one h#!! of a deal

cootees

wow, $24 shipped is an excellent deal.

johnperrone11

Okay, here it is.
The total package I've decided to go with is this.
Items I've already procured; OME steering stab, Lockrite, and Aisin Hubs.
Stuff I'm getting over the next month; Bilstein shocks for the rr. (I called a few companies on shocks, and Bil's seem to be the best for this application. About 13" compressed, and 22" full extension. Part# 1469). I still haven't decided which coils to go with yet. I have a buddy who just lifted his 1992 80 series cruiser, so maybe I'll take his stock coils off his hands for him. Do I want his front or rear coils? I'll get all four, anyway. Never know when the extra's may come in handy. And they're free, my favorite price!$$ Maybe I won't need that body lift if the lc coils get me enough. Anyway, moving on, SDORI 1.5"bj spacers, OME fr shocks, panhard drop bracket, and a 1" body lift if needed for my 33's. Downey trusses will come down the road. It should bee all done in a month or so. I'll post picks of the process and final product when done.
Thanks again for all your advice, and if anybody has anymore to add, please do so.
Oh yeah, Cootees, that negative thread on the Aisin's wasen't what I thought. Do a search for Aisin hubs and you should find it.

cootees

If you go with the lc coils you definately will not need a body lift to clear 33's. If I may make a suggestion. Instead of downeys truss, go with sonoran steel's truss. http://www.sonoransteel.com/Early_IFS_Brace.html The pics should tell you why.

callmej75

Might wanna get 4Crawlers diff drop to help ensure the life of your cv's. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml

johnperrone11

Yeah, those Sonora trusses look pretty stout. That's down the road, though. This 4runner is not for hard core wheeling these days. It's more of a daily driver. If a Toyota frame separates without an aftermarket truss simply as a result of daily driving, even with a mild lift, I think we'd see a lot less of them on the road. I for sure would not drive one anymore, for safety sake. I haul my one year old son around in this thing, daily. I HOPE Toyota quality is up to par in that area. So far, I have no reason to doubt the streangth of the frame for my driving.
As for the diff drop, if I go with the lc coils, I think it's a must, because I need to add the bj spacer's and a little cranking on the t-bars. I f go with the 1.5" coils...
hmmm...
not so much of a neccesity.

johnperrone11

I also found some 1999 rear lc coils for cheap. Will these work???

hokiruu

haha i saw those on ebay too! Dont those give a pretty significant amount of lift, like 4-5"? Please correct me if I am wrong.

cootees

Thought you might be interested. Robinhood is selling a set of rear lx450 coils. here is the link to his site. http://robinhood4x4.com/forsale.htm