IG-7 is about testing the coil...
Look at your coil and find the -terminal (usually the one closest to the windshield), the + terminal (usually the one closest to the front bumper) and the 'HIGH-TENSION' terminal is the one that goes from the coil to the center distributor terminal. On most coils, the 'HIGH-TENSION' one is the the one that sticks the farthest out.
Do what tests it says, but yours don't look like it. Just substitute what you learned in my last paragraph.

 

so were talking about the thing thats under the distributor cap ??

 

What does your ignition coil look like? Mine looks kind of like a coke or pepsi can and has 3 connections on one end of it: two have little 'bolts' sticking up and some wires with little 'eye' terminals on them and one sticks out between the other two connections. It sticks out an inch or so from the top and the wire that connects there goes over to the middle of the distributor. My two little 'bolts'- one has a "+" sign next to it and the other has a "-" sign.

 

im not gonna apologize for the "crappy phone pic" cause its not all that bad but yeah
thats it..so i think

 

come back to me abecedarian

 

i think he forgot about me

Bump

 

sorry, been off in different directions

Anyways, even though your coil doesn't look like the pic, the terminals are the same. The + in the pic is the same as the + on your coil, the - is the same, and the 'high tension' terminal means the one that goes to your distributor. You'll be placing the meter probes on the appropriate terminal on your coil and measuring the resistance (ohms).

 

dont worry about it dude
cant help only one person

but ok, ill see what happens
Thank you

 

ok well, between the positive and negative im getting nothing, or its open.
same as the high tension and positive.
so my guess would be i need a new ignition coil ??

 

Are you using a digital or analog meter and what scale are you using?
Just asking because the resistance values are very close to 0.

 

analog meter
scale ?
idk what you mean but the setting is at X10, so if i need .3 to to .5 that would be 3-5 ohms
the needle isnt moving

 

iirc, x10 means multiply the reading by 10
does the meter have a x1 scale?

 

no it does not
oh and some more bad news.
I have a blown headgasket

 

How'd that happen?

 

i think that when we first got it, it had one, my dads buddy did a HG job but never followed up to re tourqe the head, and i overheated soon after due to a bad waterpump gasket and not knowing about it.
bummer.
hopefully thats where all my oil is going and this thing isnt burning as much oil as i think (4 quarts in 600 miles)

 

well if the oils going into the cooling system, you'll see it floating on top of the coolant in the radiator- remove the rad cap and it'll be there.

but if you're going to be in it for a new HG, you might as well pop the pistons out the top of the engine and mic the cylinders checking for taper and wear. It's possible that the HG was done just to hide a problem and the engine actually needs rebuilt.

Wish you luck!

 

gahhh
well if so, i have a spare 22re that was in my old totalled truck that would be ripe for a swap, its only got 80k on the motor .
so if it does need a rubuild, then the swap is prolly going down, thats what i want anyway

 

Don't you kinda hate yourself for trying to save a bit of work... and it ends up costing you more headache? I do it all the time where something sounds like a shortcut or 'good idea' and ends up biting me in the end. Not that it wouldn't have worked, but somehow MURPHY always seems to show up and fubar things. ... Such is life.
As said, good luck.

 

thanks for the help btw
and ill keep everyone posted on progress and whatnot