I should add that when my code comes on, I lose power for some reason. I just reset the ECU and all has been fine. No light yet, but when it does come back on I'll be expecting to lose power again.

 

i got mine fixed woooohooooo!!!!!! but yes mine ran fine with cel on just bad bad gas mileage i was getting like 180 to 200 miles to a tank!!!! what i found on mine was 2 crossed vac lines with the egr and the fuel pressure. i went and pulled all the vac lines off and put them back 1 by 1 by the fsm reset the cel and have drove 125 miles and so far so good. all thoes lines in there its hard to tell where some of them go but that was my problem. good luck you guys i know mine was driving me crazy!!

 

i fixed mine !!!

it was the egr passage way in the plenum..

the hole is right behide the throttle body ,you have to take off the throttle body to get to it...

there was a ton of carbon in front of the hole it was total blocked...

 

yeah it runs decent, but gets crappy gas mileage also. it also has a lite miss in the motor on occasion.

 

My fan clutch is broken and constantly runs the fan. You think the engine not getting to normal operating temperature could cause this to happen?

 

I just changed the spark plugs and wires 2 days ago. So far no CEL. I hope this doesn't jinx it. Might be worth a try to change your plugs and wires. If not, it's good summer maintenance anyway.

 

Probably just takes longer to heat up. The thermostat won't open until it's warmed up.

 

I've been having the same problem. Fine on startup and about 45min to an hour of highway driving, the CEL would light up and the fuel consumption and power would suffer. I lurked this thread to find my solution and followed the troubleshooting steps in the manual, and it there ended up being a severe vacuum drop between the EGR vacuum modulator and the EGR valve. The Modulator diaphragm was shot and went straight through from the exhaust pressure side to the vacuum line on the throttle body, also causing a vacuum leak on the intake. Went to the junkyard and found two OEM replacements in twenty minutes after poking around the pickups (you can pull the modulator from any 89-95 Lexus or Toyota sedan). Installed the new modulator today and after about an hour of driving, the CEL has not come back on and fuel consumption as well as power seem to have improved, due to the now fixed vacuum leak.

Edit: Also, this is babby's first post.

 

Check your vacuum line first of all. I was working on my daughters 94' Camry 2.2L 5sfe with the same code 71 which is listed as "EGR System". I found the vacuum line was so old and degraded (Toyota Original) that the rubber inside the outer plastic sheath had turned to like a bubblegum and was collapsing not allowing the EGR to open. I went to the auto parts store and bought new heavy walled vacuum line, removed and cleaned out the carbon buildup in the EGR valve and temp sensor. The car runs like brand new now. $8.00 repair and about 6 hours troubleshooting and repair. I drove the car about 75 miles last night and all is well with excellent gas milage.

 

Y’all said 10k ohm, but what wattage?

 

V/R = I = 0.00005 amps
I * V = P = 0.00025 watts

 

 

WOW. 8 years since something posted on this thread. All of the EGR components have been removed on my 22re. Flashing a code 71. Local RadioShack no longer exists so now I shop on line. There seems to be several 10k resistors with different type of wattages available. I need to know which wattage type will work to get the check engine light out to go out. Help??

 

Trying to keep this in one place... I came across this issue. Replaced EGR Valve. Truck runs well. Code came on. Still runs fine but dang I thought I was done with it.

 

So I returned the truck to mechanic after code came on and replacing EGR VALVE. They cleaned the locations listed in this post again. I am in 200 miles now and no code. So far so good. Although I do notice a lil lack of power now that is it is up in running in first gear/2nd gear. If I was doing it again I would prob have just done the EGR Delete for 20 bucks. If another issue comes up this is where Im going.

 

 

You should have a sticker under the hood that gives you vacuum routing.

It is slightly different by year and model, but since you have told us neither, this is the best I can do:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ticker-302199/