Code 71 EGR. Where to look/fix first?
#21
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Just a weird question. I think I have a way to clean it with the EGR equipment still intact. Does anyone know what side of nut you would need for the EGR valve? The bit shown in this picture: http://media.photobucket.com/image/2...0stuff/EGR.jpg
I'm looking to thread a bolt on there that is attached to a hose which is attached to a bottle of cleaning solution. The bottle could have an attachment for an air compressor to shoot the fluid into the engine and clean out the carbon. Does this sound like it could work?
I'm looking to thread a bolt on there that is attached to a hose which is attached to a bottle of cleaning solution. The bottle could have an attachment for an air compressor to shoot the fluid into the engine and clean out the carbon. Does this sound like it could work?
Last edited by DupermanDave; 02-17-2010 at 11:48 AM.
#24
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What I did was pull the connection apart and push the wires into the female end. Then I bent it back so I could half push the connections back together and use electrical tape to cover it all up. If the CEL stays off I'll pull the tape and shrink wrap then entire connection so it looks stock. The emissions place here does a visual inspection so the shrink wrap will hide the adjusted wiring.
#25
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What I did was pull the connection apart and push the wires into the female end. Then I bent it back so I could half push the connections back together and use electrical tape to cover it all up. If the CEL stays off I'll pull the tape and shrink wrap then entire connection so it looks stock. The emissions place here does a visual inspection so the shrink wrap will hide the adjusted wiring.
#27
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No, mine stays on all the time. The only time it goes off is when I reset it, or disconnect the battery.....even then, after about 10-15 minutes it's back on again.
#28
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When I first pulled the codes and then cleaned the EGR (.22cal rifle brush and a bucket of cleaner) it was off for 3 or 4 tanks of fuel. Second cleaning was less. Next time the CEL would stay off for a few hundred miles and then flick on and off every once in a while. This last time it came on after 40 miles. I pulled the fuse each time to clear the codes but it kept coming back. I really think the EGR sensor has gone out but have no way to test it. I do feel that the EGR is working after looking at my emissions numbers.
#29
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Well my truck has started sputtering last night. It started up rough in the morning and idled really low, and yesterday after work it was fully warmed up and idling at about 450-500 RPMs.
Tuesday, I sprayed a lot of carb cleaner into the EGR temperature sensor hold with the sensor removed and then put the sensor back. Could this be the cause? Or could I actually have a bad EGR valve now?
Tuesday, I sprayed a lot of carb cleaner into the EGR temperature sensor hold with the sensor removed and then put the sensor back. Could this be the cause? Or could I actually have a bad EGR valve now?
#30
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Well my truck has started sputtering last night. It started up rough in the morning and idled really low, and yesterday after work it was fully warmed up and idling at about 450-500 RPMs.
Tuesday, I sprayed a lot of carb cleaner into the EGR temperature sensor hold with the sensor removed and then put the sensor back. Could this be the cause? Or could I actually have a bad EGR valve now?
Tuesday, I sprayed a lot of carb cleaner into the EGR temperature sensor hold with the sensor removed and then put the sensor back. Could this be the cause? Or could I actually have a bad EGR valve now?
#31
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Does this hole drain right into the throttle body, or does this connect with the EGR valve plate on the back of the head? Could I pour seafoam in there, and would it be safe?
#32
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FYI, running the highest octane gas from shell (with the nitrogen and v-power additive) and running at high RPMS doesn't do anything for the EGR. I thought it may clean it just a little.
Any other suggestions for on-car cleaning methods? Is there a way to test if the rubber diaphram is still working?
Any other suggestions for on-car cleaning methods? Is there a way to test if the rubber diaphram is still working?
Last edited by DupermanDave; 02-19-2010 at 10:34 AM.
#34
#36
the temp sensor and a few vac hoses are the only things left to replace. i put the resistor in today and reset the cel and no codes yet......but now when im driving at hwy speed 55 or 60 it will stall out for a sec the light will flash when it does this, but it doesnt stay on. any ideas on what that might be? ive owned a few toyota trucks and i own a lexus now ive never had this much trouble with a cel. im starting to think i shouldnt have bought it. sorry didnt mean to hijack the thred i know im new here on this forum. lol but i need help!!!!! its driving me crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!
#37
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i got a new one for ya. my CEL stays on until i encounter cold weather or an increase in altitude(go from 1500 to 5000). got any input on this issue? thank you.
#40
i just fixed my code 71 it was the egr passage hole inside intake on top right behide the throttle body you have to take off the throttle body for you to clean it out. there was a 1.5 carbon in front of the hole.