stock87

The valve can work fine and the passages can still be blocked. On the 22Rs, the 90° bend into the intake carbons shut and has to be cleaned out for flow to be restored. Look for any sharp bends between the EGR valve and the intake manifold, and that's probably where the passage has clogged.

TOE-B

i fixed mine with a new egr and erg modulator valve. so far 125 miles and no cel. the local toyota dealer service tech said the dont even do a erg without replacing the modulator and vsv. i didnt replace the vsv but my light is off!!!!

DupermanDave

How much did you pay for the EGR and modulator?

TOE-B

mod was about 50 egr was 125. so far so good but well see how long it will sta off...lol

TOE-B

well after this post the darn cel came back on. apon a little more loking i found 2 vac lines crossed switched them back so far so good another 125 miles and no cel i hope i got it!!

Squeebs

About to go to the shack and give this a shot.

What do I do with the other plug? Just leave it hanging? or plug it in a weeeeeeeee bit to confuse mr. smog man?

92budgetrunner

If you don't care what are the colors of wires going into the connector the resistor was added too? Green w/ white stripe and brown w/white stripe?

I bought a 92 4 runner 157k fresh head gaskets, fairly strait body black in color with a 3VZ-E its a little rough but seriously not bad at all!!!! The guy was selling it saying it had a bad igniter haven't checked into it yet but only paid 800 for the whole 4 runner and it is 4x4 he said that it idles fine which it does and you can move it around which I can, i drove it onto a trailer when i drove 1 1/2 hours to get it, then drove it off and into my garage where it has sit since (one week) but he said when you go down the road a certain speed the whole truck dies like you turn the switch off? Toyota mechanic said that the igniter can cause it, well got to looking around and noticed a cut loose green/white wire and brown/black wire then a messed up connector with a green/yellow wire and light green/white I believe wire, any ideas?? And I was looking onto the 10k resister and egr delete

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I believe the EGR is similar to the 22re EGR. I have gotten several Code 71 fixed just by cleaning. So that you dont have hoses disconnected, I make a block off plate that goes in between the EGR and the Plenum if I want to keep the carbon out.

If you are getting a code, you probably need to take the Plenum off and give it a good cleaning as it is going to have carbon in the ports and hoses as well.

More info on a 22re>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51647988
and https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52147101

I worked on the EGR. Here is another picture that may look like the wrong way to do this, but the screw will strip if you use a screwdriver. Get a good firm grip, but not so hard to distort the screw.


With the screw out, get another bite on the the pipe to get it out of the EGR. Leave the carbon in the pipe at this time as it will help keep the pipe round. The carbon is hard as concrete. Slowly work back and forth to get the pipe spinning inside the EGR tube and to start breaking it free. Could take up to 10 minutes but just be patient.


Once you get the little pipe out, I tap on the the big nut with a wrench to help break the rust up on the threads. The I mount the nut in a vise and tap in both directions, tightening and loosening, with a rubber hammer. I have tried using wrenches and did snap an EGRs threads one time which ruined it. These run about $150 on ebay if I recall right. This could take another 10 minutes.

After it is apart, I use a drill bit, screw driver, nail, clothes hanger to get all of the carbon out. It is rock solid in places. You can put vacuum on the hose and see and hear the plunger moving and operating inside the EGR, the goldish part.


It is clean and working but didnt get any pics. I took a wire brush to the whole EGR and then coated it with WD- for the pretty factor.


I cleaned the valve to the EGR. It is marked on the sides with "Q","R","S" on the brown part as well for correct reposition. The cotton like material is easy to clean, just need to be careful with it. I also got the metal lines that connect to it cleared. One was clogged. The black top just comes straight up to remove. Will need to check the plastic lines are clear as well on it.


This line had a hard clog in it. I took a clothes hanger and air hose to it get it clear. I have fixed several code 71s just by cleaning all of the above and never had one come back yet. The tabs on the bottom willget it back into proper postition.


Here is how I have made a Block Off Plate. Using a Dr Pepper can.
I take a thin piece of metal and bolt it to the EGR and grind it to fit to shape. After all of the carbon that builds up in these and how bad it plugs up all of the tubing. I can always remove it for inspections, if we ever have to start having them.