Greensbottom

done some searching if someone could hit me with some links that would be great. i am having some trouble with my pick up running like ˟˟˟˟ and throwing codes 14,52.. i have replace the coil and wires

Greensbottom

any one

MudHippy

Replaced the coil, but how about the igniter? 14 is an igniter signal code.
52 is the one that's causing it to run poorly. That's the knock sensor/signal. And if it's not functioning properly, then neither will the engine.

I don't know which engine we're talking about, so the only link I can provide is the FSM.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

sb5walker

And the motor in your truck is?

Greensbottom

sorry thought that was in my sig, i have a 1994 SR5 V6, i was under the impression that the knock sensor wont throw a hard code and it might only be there because of the miss-firing, i dont know why i didn't get the ignitor but will change that tomorrow.

MudHippy

And what sig would that be?

Anywho...the knock sensor will definitely throw a code. Or rather a fault in the knock sensor circuit and/or the lack of signal from it will. Which is either a problem in the knock sensor itself or in the wiring to/from it to the ECM.

From the FSM diagnostic pages:
And:




There are no codes for any type of miss-firing/pre-ignition/detonation on an OBDI system.

Here's the entire FSM: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

sb5walker

Code 14 results from the ecu not receiving an ignition confirmation signal (IGF) from the igniter. Often the problem isn't the igniter. Could be a bad connection between the ecu and igniter (either the spark triggering signal, IGT, that goes from ecu to igniter, or IGF returning), or a bad igniter ground (try cleaning up the igniter mounting bolts), or bad connection between igniter and coil, or coil and distrib (inspect the wiring and connectors). Could also be a bad engine ground (check resistance between the heads and the neg batt post - shouldn't be more than a few ohms).

Ignition circuit: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../9systemci.pdf
Description of how the ignition system is supposed to work - the 3VZE has the "ESA" ignition system described in this article:
http://autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf

Code 52, that can be a bear, but is often due to bad wiring between the ecu and sensor, especially the pigtail between the sensor and the harness. Sometimes the sensor ground gets corroded, and sometimes, but not often, the sensor goes bad. But it's a tough, long-lived little sensor, so that's often not the problem.

I would also check the resistance of the signal coils in the distrib, and also the air gaps. Specs here:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...12onvehicl.pdf

Greensbottom

wow a igniter is $140 so i will be checking the connections thank you guy for the help, i have allready spent $125 and still having the same problems the truck bucks and falls on its face it really sucks

Greensbottom

well still getting the same codes, i was wondering if this could be fuel related
what do u guys think? 2 months ago i changed the fuel pump, filter and sending bracket and lines due to the bracket rusting out and leaking fuel, so while we were in there replaced everything.
maybe an injector causing the hesitation then throwing these codes.
in the last week i have changed the spark plugs, wires, rotor and the coil
ive been using premium gas and put some Lucas injector cleaner in it.

when i start the truck no light runs fine for about 5 min then in 2nd gear when it hits 2k the cel comes on, starts to studder then once it gets past 3k seems to run ok but under a load is when it runs the worst and the code reads 14,52

I inspected the wiring and it looks really good, the truck is nearly rust free and is in great condition the previous owner took to toyota for all maint. Its not a farm truck so i don't understand how the wiring could go bad. i realize it is a 1994 but it is in really good condition.

Greensbottom

thanks if u can help or have any other pointers

MudHippy

O.k., let me try this again. Your troubles are definitely of an electrical nature. So don't wander too far off the track here.

If the igniter isn't something you think you can afford to replace, and the knock sensor sounds like too much hassle, you could try replacing the ECM. Personally I'd replace the igniter, knock sensor and/or the knock sensor wire first. That'd be the cheapest route by far. Wait untill you find out how much a new ECM's gonna run ya. Because that'll probably change you're tune about where to start, real quick like. How's $1015 sound to ya? Yeah, I thought so.

But, you can't rule out the wiring without testing(with an ohmmeter for excessive resistance) and visually inspecting every single wire that could possibly be at fault. Just assuming they're fine for whatever reason, doesn't mean they are.

However, if they really do check out fine, you won't have any other options. You'll need to replace the igniter and/or the knock sensor. If that doesn't do it, then the ECM is fried and needs replaced. These things happen. I know, it sucks. I feel ya on that.

Good luck!

Greensbottom

i was under the impression that if a ignitor was bad the truck will not start or idle, the truck idles fine with no check engine light only after 2nd gear and 2k
it starts the hesitation and under a load. so i am definitely going to inspect wires and test, i had some one tell me that these trucks are know for bad dizzy's and that my problem kinda sounds like thats the source. what do u think?
i can afford to replace the ignitor, but it cant be returned, so if i don't need it why buy it, i've already thrown money at it for nothing, but looks like i might have to take it to a shop because i need it to run right.

MudHippy

See post #7. Everything you need to know to correctly diagnose the source of code 14 can be found there. If the ignitor is bad then it won't pass the inspection procedures on page IG-18 of the FSM. If the distributor is bad it won't pass the inspection procedures on page IG-23 of the FSM(link provided previously in post #7). The shop won't know anything that we don't, but if you wanna pay someone to do it, that's your business. Hope you don't get burned.

Again, good luck.