Code 13
08-24-2018, 08:32 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Code 13
Hello all, long time lurker here. I picked up a parts truck for cheap that is in better condition than my current driver. I am getting a "code 13" which is no "NE" signal to the ECU. The Haynes says is likely an ECU, Distributor, or Distributor wiring problem. The idle is rough, but if I can feather the throttle just right then I can get it to rev up just fine, as soon as I let it off it tries to die though. If I rev it up and try to put it in first, as soon as I let the clutch out she dies, no power. I've looked but still not sure what the "Ne" signal means or what's going on in leighman's terms and I do NOT want to start throwing parts at it. I'm an ok mechanic, but electronics are my bane. If you all have any ideas, please let me know. Thanks.
Matt Z
Matt Z
08-24-2018, 10:26 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,254
Likes: 0
Received 822 Likes
on
649 Posts
Welcome to YotaTech.
Let's see. You're probably asking about a Toyota. But which one? A Camry? Well, you say truck, could it be a T100? Some people call 4Runners trucks. And what year? What engine? What transmission? (Yes, all these things are important. If you plan to stick around, and we hope you will, put that information into your "signature" so you don't need to repeat it.)
Here's the diagnostics page for a '93 (which will do you well, unless your "truck" is before 1989) http://web.archive.org/web/201211190...85diagnosi.pdf
The NE signal comes from the pickup in the distributor. It's the old-time equivalent of cam position sensor. http://web.archive.org/web/201212070.../9systemci.pdf The ECU uses that signal to figure out the IGT signal which goes to the igniter, which triggers the coil. If the NE signal goes missing, how is the ECU to get the spark right?
Don't worry about the ECU. These manuals were written when the trucks were brand-new, and ECUs suffered a small incidence of "infant-death." If your ECU made it through the first year, it should last forever (unless you flood it with water ....) But the wiring (and the coils in the distributor) aren't so protected. Using the diagrams referenced, I'd trace out the wiring with a multimeter. Or, I might run the diagnostics on the Signal Generators in the distributor. http://web.archive.org/web/201212070...12onvehicl.pdf
Let's see. You're probably asking about a Toyota. But which one? A Camry? Well, you say truck, could it be a T100? Some people call 4Runners trucks. And what year? What engine? What transmission? (Yes, all these things are important. If you plan to stick around, and we hope you will, put that information into your "signature" so you don't need to repeat it.)
Here's the diagnostics page for a '93 (which will do you well, unless your "truck" is before 1989) http://web.archive.org/web/201211190...85diagnosi.pdf
The NE signal comes from the pickup in the distributor. It's the old-time equivalent of cam position sensor. http://web.archive.org/web/201212070.../9systemci.pdf The ECU uses that signal to figure out the IGT signal which goes to the igniter, which triggers the coil. If the NE signal goes missing, how is the ECU to get the spark right?
Don't worry about the ECU. These manuals were written when the trucks were brand-new, and ECUs suffered a small incidence of "infant-death." If your ECU made it through the first year, it should last forever (unless you flood it with water ....) But the wiring (and the coils in the distributor) aren't so protected. Using the diagrams referenced, I'd trace out the wiring with a multimeter. Or, I might run the diagnostics on the Signal Generators in the distributor. http://web.archive.org/web/201212070...12onvehicl.pdf
08-24-2018, 10:29 AM
#3
Hello all, long time lurker here. I picked up a parts truck for cheap that is in better condition than my current driver. I am getting a "code 13" which is no "NE" signal to the ECU. The Haynes says is likely an ECU, Distributor, or Distributor wiring problem. The idle is rough, but if I can feather the throttle just right then I can get it to rev up just fine, as soon as I let it off it tries to die though. If I rev it up and try to put it in first, as soon as I let the clutch out she dies, no power. I've looked but still not sure what the "Ne" signal means or what's going on in leighman's terms and I do NOT want to start throwing parts at it. I'm an ok mechanic, but electronics are my bane. If you all have any ideas, please let me know. Thanks.
Matt Z
Matt Z
It told your were to look
There is a pickup coil mounted in the distributor, it feeds the distributor position to the ignitor, which is supposed to forward it to the ECU. Your NE signal isn't reaching the ECU, or is sporaticly reaching the ECU.
You'll need to trace the harness from ignitor to the ECU and look for damage. A likely place for damage is where it passes over the exhaust along the firewall. Could just be a loose plug at either end that needs cleaned and tightened.. Could be a failing ignitor also.
08-24-2018, 01:21 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thank you for the help and my apologies for lack of information. As I failed to recognize that I left those parts out, and I cannot get help if I don't specify the particulars now can I? The truck in question is a 91 2WD, 2.4L, 5-speed pickup. The explanation of the Ne signal helps me to understand what all the operations is and how it is supposed to work. I will search for loose connections, corroded or bare wire throughout and all such as that. Thank you again and take care.
Matt Z
Matt Z
09-09-2018, 01:40 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,254
Likes: 0
Received 822 Likes
on
649 Posts
Not that I know of.
But it depends on what is wrong with the distributor. With age, the bearings can go, so the shaft wobbles, and the timing of the NE pulse goes wacky. OR, the coils short/open. OR, the internal cam is worn so the gap is too wide to trigger the coil.
BUT: long before you'd think of rebuilding (or replacing) a distributor, you'd know exactly which test it failed. Otherwise, you're just guessing.
Which test did your distributor fail?
But it depends on what is wrong with the distributor. With age, the bearings can go, so the shaft wobbles, and the timing of the NE pulse goes wacky. OR, the coils short/open. OR, the internal cam is worn so the gap is too wide to trigger the coil.
BUT: long before you'd think of rebuilding (or replacing) a distributor, you'd know exactly which test it failed. Otherwise, you're just guessing.
Which test did your distributor fail?
09-15-2018, 06:26 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
All,
My last post was made before I picked up a new multi-meter and feeler gauges so I didn't have all the needed info. My resistance readings on the pickup coil, and ignition coil all measure to within spec, along with the air gap. I also took the ECU out and have not found any signs of overheating or anything that would indicate a bad ECU either. I have not found any loose or broken wiring either. At this point I'm back at square one and am unsure where to proceed. If anyone has any input I would appreciate it greatly.
matt z
My last post was made before I picked up a new multi-meter and feeler gauges so I didn't have all the needed info. My resistance readings on the pickup coil, and ignition coil all measure to within spec, along with the air gap. I also took the ECU out and have not found any signs of overheating or anything that would indicate a bad ECU either. I have not found any loose or broken wiring either. At this point I'm back at square one and am unsure where to proceed. If anyone has any input I would appreciate it greatly.
matt z
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
22REFORME
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
10
02-28-2020 07:23 PM
mytoyota86
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
9
10-04-2011 05:43 PM
89whitetoyota
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
6
07-19-2010 08:51 AM
