i checked my error codes today and i got a code 12 ( no G or NE signal is input into the ECM for 2 sec's or more after STA turns 4n) (open or short in G or NE circuit, open or short in STA circuit, distributor, ECM) ok, so now what? After some extensive searching of YT i found this error seems to happen with runners that won't start, which is mine about once a month, then no problems for another month until the click and no start, then i jump it and i am good to go for about another month. Anybody have any ideas?

 

Start with the distributor cap and rotor.

 

bump i have the same prob i just did a headgasket and it will run but bad valve knock anyone have anyother ideas i have a new rotor and cap

 

I have been wrenching on cars since I was 10 (30 years) and "Valve Knock" is a new one on me....please define.

A big screw up that people doing head gaskets seem to have that causes really strange problems is leaving the Ground strap off the injectors. It bolts to one of the upper plenum bolts between 2 and 3. From there check the plugs from the Distributor to the igniter and from the igniter to the ECM that runs directly over the valve cover. Both those wires sort of disappear in the spaghetti of wires on re assembly.

 

ok so i fixed the codes just by letting it run but it still sounds like its missing has not power its like and old lady going around a corner accel and its has a rev limit of 2900-3000 any one have any ideas i and dumfounded and i just did a headgasket and new plugs wires cap and rotor i just dont know any thoughts?

 

When mine didn't start, and I got a code 12 (maybe 13 as well) I found that if I unplugged the connector from the distributor to the wiring harness, cleaned and plugged it back in it would start right up. It's a 4 wire plug just at the end of the dist pigtail.

I took some time and really cleaned out this plug and put some of that spark plug lube they give you with the wires... and didn't have the problem occur again.

I did just recently swap in a "new" (salvage) distributor as I was still having trouble with my timing bouncing several degrees at idle. This new distributor solved that issue and seemed to give me a more consistant response to the throttle. The engine used to feel like it would just run out of steam before.

 

thanks i will go try that mine starts but in park it idles about 1000 and then at drive it idles about 500 y such a big drop i think that has to do with the no power and it still sounds like its missing

 

well after some more searchingi found out about the TPS and i tested mine well i dont know how this happened but its backwards it thinks its at full throttle idleing and at idle its at full throttle and everythingk else is mixed up has anyone ever had this happen

 

Should probably post how you are determining what the TPS is reading for suggestions.

Try this link. Very helpful in adjusting and diagnosing TPS issues, if you haven't messed with one to much before.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...#TPSAdjustment

 

i tried that we even went out and bought a digital reader thats how i figured out it was backwards also if u squeeze it it changes so im going to buy a new one and see what happens

 

Uh are the probes pointed toward the grill or the firewall? How could you look at the pictures on the 4crawler link and put the TPS on bacwards? If you squeeze it things change? Are you working on the TPS on a 22re or have I had to many cold beers?

 

its a 3.0 they are the same and it points pasenger or driver fender i followed the directions and i am talkinga bout the old one i pick up the new one tomorrow

 

Oh, I saw 88 22re in the first post, don't know squat about 3.0's sorry no offense.

 

he its cool i just replyed to the old one cuz i never know where to put them i always put the thread in the wrong spot

 

Backwards.... still sounds wrong. The plug should point towards the DS fender or away from the engine and towards the intake side of the throttle body. Is that the way you have it now?

What do you mean by "squeeze it it changes"? Does "squeeze" mean when you rotate the TPS, kind of like simulating the throttle opening and closing? If so, it is supposed to change.

If you mean it changes when you squeeze the case of the TPS or something like that, then I suppose the TPS could have a problem.

From what I understand, it is rare for a TPS to actually fail. You may get a burnt spot that will show up with a quick, sharp dip in your readings.

It sounds to me like you may want to make sure you existing TPS is actually adjusted properly before you swap out a new one. If you don't fully understand how to adjust the TPS position, you'll be in the same or worse shape after the new one is installed

Also, what's your timing look like? Nice and steady?

Just trying to save you from buying a part you may not need.

 

ok well i put the new TPS in and it pretty much fixed the problem it made the timing able to be timed and it sounds so much better, while in park and nuetral its fine idles about 1000 but when u put it in drive or reverse it goes down to about 750 but it is a real ruff like a miss any thoughts