Clutch, Slave, or Master?
#1
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Clutch, Slave, or Master?
So I'm going to work this morning, I push the clucth in and everything's fine, then I go to shift gears and it feels odd.
When I let the clutch out it starts to catch real close to the floor, normally it would catch around mid-travel. When I pull out from a stop, the clutch starts to grab without me letting up on the pedal... whether I want it to or not.
I'm guessing it's a hydraulic issue, i.e. not being able to hold pressure. Is there anyway to determine if it's top-side in the master or bottom side in the slave cylinder?
When I let the clutch out it starts to catch real close to the floor, normally it would catch around mid-travel. When I pull out from a stop, the clutch starts to grab without me letting up on the pedal... whether I want it to or not.
I'm guessing it's a hydraulic issue, i.e. not being able to hold pressure. Is there anyway to determine if it's top-side in the master or bottom side in the slave cylinder?
#3
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See if its leaking anywhere. The clutch master cylinder will usually leak inside the truck on to the floor. Feel your carpet around the footwell to see if its wet with brake fluid. Both the clutch master and slave cylinders are easy to change but I would only get either one from a Toyota Dealer.
#4
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Thread Starter
I checked to see if I'm leaking anywhere and can't find anything. I checked the fluid in the resourvior and it's still full, which after 30 some miles of mild traffic and early morning city driving, you'd think would have pushed/leaked out if there was a leak somewhere.
As far as a cracked bracket... I stuck my head under the dash while pushing the clutch with my hand and don't see anything moving that shouldn't.
Can somebody post pics of what brackets to look for?
As far as a cracked bracket... I stuck my head under the dash while pushing the clutch with my hand and don't see anything moving that shouldn't.
Can somebody post pics of what brackets to look for?
#6
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The same thing happened to me it ended up being the master, but I ended up replacing the slave and the rubber hose that goes between the two hard lines. Also by a oem replacement slave cylinder because I went through three Autozone ones before I got one that work correctly, And don't forget to bench bleed the master before installing will make life much easier.
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#8
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what jay said, there like 50 bucks max.
but if you wanna go through the trouble, they sould have a rebuild kit wherever you would purchase a new master, if you went that route of course
but if you wanna go through the trouble, they sould have a rebuild kit wherever you would purchase a new master, if you went that route of course
#10
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Thread Starter
The truck only sees Mother Toyota parts, since the original went @ 156k. I think another stocker will suit me fine.
Stealership wants $135 for a new master or $35 for a kit. I've used the toyota rebuild kits for the starter and alternator and am very pleased with the ease of disassembly/reasembly. Plus they have it in stock.
Stealership wants $135 for a new master or $35 for a kit. I've used the toyota rebuild kits for the starter and alternator and am very pleased with the ease of disassembly/reasembly. Plus they have it in stock.
Last edited by fierohink; 06-26-2010 at 06:38 AM.
#11
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Just saying dude Marlins is Aisin Made as in Factory Toyota from Japan! Best you can buy basicaly for $59 why waist on a cheap rebuild kit from Mothers which basicaly defeats the point from buying it from them!
#12
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#13
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Thread Starter
Clutch Shopping
I will soon be in need of a replacement Asin Clutch kit for my 22RE.
178k miles and she's finally starting to slip a little when pulling my motorcycle trailer.
What's the best (cheapest vs. best service) place to get a stock Asin clutch and a 10# heavier flywheel?
178k miles and she's finally starting to slip a little when pulling my motorcycle trailer.
What's the best (cheapest vs. best service) place to get a stock Asin clutch and a 10# heavier flywheel?
#14
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Thread Starter
I wanted to go with the heavy flywheel for a little more hill holding power. I've heard that the additional inertia of the heavier flywheel helps with the maintaining power on our underpowered 4s. I understand that I would be trading acceleration for it, but I'm ok with that.
Unless of course I've been given bad info. You've been around Toys for a while Wab and I'd trust some more insight if you have it.
Last edited by rworegon; 08-02-2014 at 03:49 PM.
#16
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Mine did that, turned out it was the hydraulic line had sprung a leak, looks like it was rubbing on some wiring. If I pressed in the clutch repeatedly and quickly I could get normal clutch action until it leaked out. My leak ended up being on the passenger side on a metal tubing line that connected to the slave cylinder.
#17
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mine did that to and it ended up being the clutch pedal bracket. just welded it up and added a support bar because the top bolt that goes in the bottom of the dash pulled right out.
#18
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Join Date: May 2010
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http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/...aster-cylinder $58.95
http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/...slave-cylinder $28.95
OEM parts, new not rebuilt.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/...slave-cylinder $28.95
OEM parts, new not rebuilt.
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