isaac338

Hey guys,

I was just driving around town and felt a clunk. I think I broke my clutch disk, as now the pedal feels a bit spongier as if there's less travel and it's near impossible to shift into any gear while stopped (totally impossible to shift into reverse at all without turning off the engine). Shifts fine when driving, and I don't feel any slippage even when hitting it hard.

Given that the clutch was working fine till about half an hour ago, what are the chances I blew a seal in the master or slave? Is it worth replacing these or should I just buy a new clutch?

Is there a certain measurement of slave cylinder pushrod travel? Mine's extending about an inch, maybe two (didn't have a tape measure when it happened). That's why I don't really suspect the master or slave; it seems like it's disengaging the clutch more than enough.

I'm thinking either a cracked disk or a spring that popped out. I figure a new flywheel and clutch kit from Marlin and I'll be set.

I'm going to go through the troubleshooting section of the FSM tomorrow either way, but does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks guys,

Isaac

WFO

Check the pedal assembly, the bracket that holds the pedals. Mine broke and ive heard of a few other people breaking theirs. When it breaks it doesnt push the pedal far enough into the master cylinder.

Can you see anything leaking?

isaac338

No leaks that are obvious. Fluid level is good. I'll check the bracket.

Something tells me if it was a broken disk I'd have slippage...

bump?

tombothetominator

Definately check the bracket that holds your clutch pedel. Mine broke and had the exact same symptoms. If that is it, take it to a machine shop and get it welded (or weld it yourself, if you got the tools) instead of paying ~$250 at the dealer.

Easiest way to check it is to stick your head under the dash and push the pedel down with your hand. Look up at the bracket and see if it is flexing.

Azusacanyonbogger

The pedal assemblys SUCK!!! broke mine so i bought another one and got it welded in the spot where it broke. the one from my truck was also changed by the previous owner (brand new toyota part!). my bet would be on the pedal assembly

Azusacanyonbogger

by the way i have one if anyone wants to buy it. $120 shipped.

isaac338

Arg. I kind of ignored the problem because I bled the clutch release system and it went away for a while. Came back today real bad to the point where I couldn't shift at all.

Does anyone know how far the clutch slave rod should extend out of the slave cylinder?? All the Haynes manual says is "a significant amount", whatever the hell that means.

The wierd part is that after sitting by the side of the road for ten minutes the problem went away and the truck shifts good as ever.

What the hell is going on? Intermittant problems are the most annoying things to diagnose...

snootwiyota

I just replaced the clutch in my 1989 SR5 and still have the same issue described above. The clutch needed replacing, but guess what?? My clutch pedal bracket is cracked!! The whole bracket rolls over robbing the master cyl. of the necessary stroke, despite full adjustment. My first clutch went at 170,000 and now I have 329,000 on her; she's been good and is going to get fixed..... Azusa do you still have that bracket???