skjos

Symptoms:
The 1994 22RE 5speed truck has been intermittently stuttering as the clutch is released into first gear, maybe for the last 100 miles.

Then today the clutch petal started to feel different, it seemed to stick a little on some of the shifts, and some shifts it didn’t feel like it was coming back up as well as it should.

Then it started to become hard to shift into gear, especially 2nd.

I stopped and picked up groceries and when I started again, the clutch release into first gear had a nasty grinding noise, not a gear grinding but something different. You could feel the vibrating/grinding in the clutch pedal. I made it home only having to start from first gear a couple of times (always with the nasty grinding).

After parking it at home there was a burnt clutch smell.

Clutch was replaced by Toyota at 180,000 miles, I now have 217,500 miles. Once engaged the clutch was not slipping, the problem was during the engagement phase.

Any help would be much appreciated, I would like to know what I'm dealing with before I take it to the dealer (or try and fix it myself). A proper diagnosis would certainly earn someone a beer.

jsn_stockard

Sounding like the clutch master or slave cyl may need checked

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Start with the easy external things !!

Did you even think to check the clutch fluid as these do use hydraulic clutches.

A good place to start might just need bleeding and some fluid DOT #3 brake fluid.

If it turns out to be internal get help.

Good luck

skjos

I haven't checked the easy things yet, I'll try to check them out tonight.
Would Valvoline DOT 3/4 synthetic brake fluid be OK for bleeding the clutch?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Check fluid.
Check for leaks, master and slave.
Check pedal assembly for cracks and fatigues.
If none of those, time for new clutch.

:wabbit2:

skjos

I've got a new AISIN master and slave cylinder on order from Rockauto.com.

I figure if I'm going to be pulling them off for inspection and possible rebuild, I might as well just replace them with new ones. I've never really serviced these parts, and my service record when I had the clutch replaced at Toyota didn't mention anything about these parts, or bleeding/flushing the clutch fluid.

It probably time for new ones.

nmtoy

As long as you are replacing the master and slave I would replace the flexible part of the line betwwen the two.

I did all of that the other day and the flexible line was leaking.

I paid $25.00 for it at theToyota dealer.

nmtoy

I took the flexible line, the lower hard line and the slave cylinder out as a unit and assembled them on the bench. The install is alot easier that way.

skjos

Do you have a part number for the flexible line?
Thanks

skjos

Installed new AISIN master and slave, I had a new OEM flex line, but the one on the truck looks fine... and it looks like a PITA to change. Bled the system, adjusted petal free play, and tested it out. Grindddd...

It is not the hydraulic system, now it's time to get it off to the stealer to see how much they can rip me off for.

mattaway

Check your pedal bracket, it might have a crack in it, or try adjusting the pedal

skjos

My experience with the stealer (Toyota of Puyallup) so far:
Called and ask for clutch replacement cost, was quoted $880.41.
Asked what this would include, was told: replace clutch, pilot bearing, throw-out bearing, and resurface flywheel.
Asked what the cost would be with the 20% off high-mileage coupon, was quoted $704.33.

I had the truck towed 10 miles ($93).

Now that the truck is there was told I needed to have a diagnostic preformed ($100). I told them the issue was the clutch and I diagnosis was not needed. Nope diagnosis is required for them to perform the work. Tow truck is now gone, so I'm basically stuck with them, unless I want to spend another $93 to tow it again.

Get a call this morning, we performed the diagnostic and your clutch needs replaced (no s**t). The clutch replacement will cost $1,100.50, but with your 20% discount it will only cost $880.41 + 100.00diagnostic + tax.

Told them that was bulls**t and that I was quoted $704.33 before I had the truck towed in. After b!tching they agreed to the $704.33 + $100 diagnostic + tax. So now I'm out the door for $883.

Seems pretty sleazy to me, also they want to charge me an extra half hour shop rate + parts to replace the rear main seal. It was replaced 35K ago, so it should still be good, I told them to leave it.

I’ll post again with an update when I get one.

TNRabbit

$100 diagnostic?? You can do that in 5 minutes with a paper clip....rip off artists!

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

that sucks they're charging you diagnostics still. i can understand that if they're not doing the work, but they are...good luck.

blake.nemitz

have you looked at your pedal bracket. what you described is a failing bracket when it flexes too much then it cracks not letting the clutch fully disengage

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

This sounds like what my transmission is going through. First it was grinding/meshing, then 4th gear disappeared (syncros), and lately, a grinding I can feel in the clutch pedal when downshifting to 1st or 2nd. I think I have a bunch of issues: crapped tranny, and my release or throwout bearing may be toast. Curious to see how this ends up for you - sorry you got scammed - that's BS!

skjos

I checked the bracket when I replaced the master and slave cylinder, it looked good. My clutch fully engages and disengages, it's just during engagement something is horribly wrong.

I should have more information tomorow.

skjos

I got the truck back from the stealer, the problem was a bad clutch disk, apparently the clutch material started to fray. Has anyone ever experienced that?

I inspected the work and it looks good, except I have a question... there are two bolts in the joint between the bell housing and the engine that do not go into the bell housing, but look like they should. Is this correct? Here is a picture to explain what I'm talking about. The bolts are above the slave cylinder.

Thanks

bmcghie

I can't really tell what you're getting at with that picture... and I only know V6 + MT... but:

If you're referring to what looks like an empty bolt hole up top... lazy mechanics? If you're referring to bolts coming from engine side and not out the other side of the bellhousing... they might be the bolts holding the starter on, or some of the different length engine/bellhousing bolts got mixed up.

Can you get another picture?

skjos

It would be the bolt labeled "C" in this picture and the bolt hole below it.