what is the easiest way to replace the clutch hose?



it's really hard to get to -

no room for tools, kinda-

didn't wanna have to remove a bunch of other hoses but. . .

 

I had the same problem; I hired a repair shop to do it. I felt rich then.

 

It probably won't help much, but it might make it a little easier if you remove the metal retainer clips. Once your disconnected from the master and slave cylinders, it should be able to be snaked out with the steel lines still attached, or at least get it out enough to disconnect the steel lines.

 

Once you do get it snaked out, i would highly suggest you replace the line with a steel braided line for brakes. They bolt right in to the other lines. My clutch lines are not bolted down due to the fact that i did a 5-speed swap and the little rubber piece of hose got too close to my exhaust manifold and burned a hole in it while i was 50 miles away from home!

 

I need to replace this same clutch hose on my '89. Where should I begin unscrewing and how does it come apart?

 

Had to do it!!!!!!
But seriously it is a pain to get to and there is no easy way. I found it best to leave the clips in place and undo the flare nuts first. The top one is fairly easy to get at, the bottom is the pain in the arse. Use a flare nut wrench, 9mm if I remember correctly. Once you get your hand down in there with the wrench you will not have alot of room but it is doable.
It is very easy to crossthread the lower flare nut when you try to reinstall, again just be careful and take your time.
Also be careful not to get any of the fluid on painted surfaces as it is nothing more than brake fluid.

 

Make sure you have a 10mm flare wrench. Also a flare crow's foot wrench might help in this situation. Should be able to find a set at the auto parts store.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I did a "clutch hose replacement" search and this one came up.
Re.my '94 PU 22RE 5 speed.
The clutch would slip when I accelerated hard in 4th or 5th gears, usually going up a hill. And sometimes in stop and go traffic, I would lose the clutch altogether, like it was out of fluid,which it wasn't.
Hoping it wasn't needing a complete clutch assy. replacement, I bought a new master and slave cylinder. And also a hose. Yesterday I replaced the master and slave cylinders but when I went to replace the hose,I was shocked to find my big ole hands would not fit down between the engine and firewall. Someone here suggested taking the hard line loose at the master cylinder and snaking out the whole line assy. But that would mean removing the retaing clip that holds the hose onto the firewall. I don;t see how that I'm going to be able to do that but I'll try that today.
Any other suggestions from you Toyo gurus?

BTW, using a cheap vacuum pump brake bleeder kit from Harbor Freight, there's no problem getting all the air out of the system. Easy Peasy

 

I did my 22R hose and slave last month - slave has blown. I did the hose because 30 plus years and I didn't want to have to go back in.

I took out and installed the solid line between the rubber hose and slave which made the whole thing a good deal easier. I did it with the connections attached but not tightened so I could orient them to their final positions easily then tighten. The 22R has different equipment vs the RE but I removed the charcoal canister for access to the hose. I also disconnected a couple vac hoses which connect on the carb/manifold.

 

Got the hose on. I didn't disconnect the hard line from the master cylinder. But I did take three bolts out holding the hard line to the firewall. After removing the slave cylinder hard line and getting the retaining clip off each end of the flex line, I was able to pull the line up enough to remove the flex line from the MC hard line and install the new line. I'm 75 years old and my hands and arms look like I've been attacked by a Bobcat.
Bad news is, there's no improvement in the situation.
The Haynes manual says there should be a spring on the release bearing fork. There isn't one. I see no place for one to attach.
What say you?

 

I don't believe there is a spring on the release bearing fork, at least not one that pulls the release fork in or out...maybe the Haynes Manual is referring to "spring clips" that hold the release bearing hub to the fork.

Anyway, spring or no spring, your initial problem states that your clutch would slip when accelerating up a hill. If the clutch is slipping, I'd say either your disc is worn or your pressure plate fingers are weak, this has nothing to do with the clutch hydraulics. If the clutch is slipping, like engine is rev'ing but truck isn't moving in proportion to those revs, then I'd say you are due for a clutch\pressure plate\throwout bearing here in the very near future.

As for "losing the clutch" in stop and go traffic, I'm not sure what that means, are you saying that you press the pedal, but the disc does not seem to move away from the flywheel? If that is what you are saying, then it seems like changing the master\slave\and soft line would be a good start.

 

In the 'replace the slave cylinder' section of the manual the first thing it said was, remove the torsion spring from the release bearing fork. Just a typo I guess.


I'm afraid you may be correct. A complete clutch job may be in my future. I was just hoping the flex line was coming apart inside and was acting like a check valve. You know, like a brake hose does and won't let the brake completely release on one front wheel or both rear wheels.

Yes, that's exactly what I meant. It was like the fluid was slowly leaking out of the MC. But the system was full of fluid and after setting for an hour or so it would work right again I feel confident that replacing the master and slave remedied that problem.