Hey guys, I got a check engine light on my 91 4runner and to my dismay autozone can't check it because its not OBDII. I'm sure I'd have to pay the dealer an arm and a leg just for them to take 30 seconds to check the code. Is there a way I can check it myself? I'm assuming my truck is OBDI, do I have to just go out and buy the scanner thing? Let me know how you guys check your codes, because check engine lights drive me nuts.

 

Theres a diagnostic box on the passenger side fender under the hood...its labeled on top of the box. Take a paper clip and make it into a U shape and put it into the TE1 and E1 holes...these slots are labeled under the cap in a diagram. Then get in and turn the ignition switch past ACC to on and watch the check engine light blink. If there is a short pause between blinks then its a 2 number code. The codes will cycle through and start all over so have a pen and paper handy.

 

Yes, but I dont want you to lose an arm or a leg. Have you tried Pep Boys? I know it will take over 30 seconds to go into Autozone and listen to the guy tell you he cant do it.

 

I know you are making a point. But you have to admit that not all dealerships or dealership techs make the effort you do. And some people might have a justifiable negative opinion on the whole going to the dealership subject.

if you know just say so. when you do like above more than the person who originally posted that got your ire up suffers from your post.

If you don't care for the negative dealer comments PM them and change their mind.

I have read almost every post you have done in the last few weeks and have learned quite a bit, and will hopefully continue to glean some info from your experiences. You have posted some very useful info. Don't muddy the waters by trying to but heads with the haters.

sorry for the rant , back to the regularly scheduled program.

 

You have to admit that most dealerships are the most expensive places you can go to have service done on your truck. I do all the work on my truck myself but occasionally go to the dealership to order parts. I'm confused by what your post meant, but when I go to the dealer they are usually less than helpfull if I have questions. I see that you work for a dealer but don't be offended by my post and take it personal as I was not talking about you or the dealership you work for.

 

What do you mean by number 2 code? Is that a code that starts with the number 2? Also after the first 2 blinks what else will the check engine light flashing tell me? I'm not sure I'm clear on this whole process of reading the codes.

 

I think he means it will be a two digit code Like 10 or 25. the first set of blinks will be the first digit 1 the pause then the next set will be second digit 7.

 

Yes...it will blink twice...then short pause...then maybe blink 5 times...that is read as code 25. Now...keep watching it because the codes repeat themselves and be sure you are reading the code correctly. There will be a longer pause in between blinks when the code is finished. Like this...

Blink blink...blink blink blink....................blink blink blink

That would be a code 25 and 3 just for an example. Best way I can explain it..

 

How to check codes:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

 

Code 25 is a lean condition. Make sure its not accompanied by a code 26, or its spendy. Means a cylinder imbalnce on power, ie compression varying more than 14 PSI

 

So I checked the code today with the paper clip, That was awesome! I couldn't believe something so simple worked. I came up with a code 71 witch is the egr system. A dealership had told me before that it was either the egr modulator or the egr vacuum switching valve (VSV) I have already replaced the modulator and the light is still on, but before I just start buying more parts I was wondering if anyone else here has had any expierience with this code and what it was. I looked in my manual to find my VSV a month or so ago and couldnt find it. Thanks for the help so far guys.

 

Check and see if your actual EGR valve is operating correctly. One way to do it, locate the EGR valve on the passenger side of the intake plenum. There is a vacuum line that attaches to the top of it. Start it up, take that top vacuum line off the top of the egr, but leave it attached to the egr valve. Now suck on it, if the motor dies, it is good, if not, you found your problem!

 

How much suction does it usually take to make the motor die? I sucked as hard as I could (hahaha I can't help but laugh) but at the most the engine just seemed to slow down a bit, but not die.

 

Forgive me if I'm being Captain Obvious, but you did clear the code right? (By pulling the neg battery cable or pulling the ECU fuse) It just concerns me when you say "still on" as the code won't go off till you clear it. When the code comes back on that you know you have not fixed the problem.

Good luck-

-Scubaduck

 

It takes just a little suction...never correctly measured the lbs/sqin or anything...

Mine slowed the motor way down and died...might have a leaky EGR valve.

 

Good point scuba....clear codes like you specified, then drive it for a while til the CEL comes back on. If its a code 71 again, then you know something is definately wrong.

 

yeah I have cleared it since replaceing the egr modulater and its come back.

 

I hate to buy a new egr just to find its not the problem, if I remove it is there any obvious visual sign that it isn't working?

 

I would think now...it will still throw a code if removed. Go to a junkyard and buy one. They are over $100 new, but you could maybe get lucky with one at a junkyard.

 

good idea, are they pretty easy to remove?