Hey everyone, i have a 1990 toyota pickup extracab V6, and i was wondering what would be the cheapest lift possible to fit some 33x 12.5 under it wihtout significant rubbing. One of my buddies has a 93' i believe and he put a 2 or 3 + inch shackle kit in and a 2 inch ball joint spacer kit and he fits them fine. Would this work on mine?, if not let me hear any other cheap things i can do,
--thank you

 

bolt the tires on and hammer the body seam flat. done.

 

sawzall and a hammer would be the cheapest

















and yes the similar lift would work on your truck

 

lol, okay let me rephrase "cheapest" i dont mean a 10 dollar hammer, im just looking for something around 200, max of 250, without a body lift

 

ok. Hammer the seam flat and go get a quality hooker...


If you really want to spend money your buddy did it right.

 

When you use the word "cheap" don't expect answers you want to hear.

 

You would be better off running 33's wiht no lift (lower center of gravity) but if you WANT to lift, the absolute cheapest route would be shackles in the rear and tbar crank in the front

Edit: Well said wabbit, i think thats sig worthy

 

i just put 33-12.5s under my truck with a 1 inch body lift. not quite as much clearance as i'd like but so far so good. got it from 4crawler off road for $56 plush shipping and tax since i'm in ca. came to 74 total but then i had to buy bolts to and i found out it would have been cheaper to order those from him too. so you could lift it enough for $86 plus shipping. it's not a lot of body lift and i can't find a problem. other than that the cheapest would be shackles or add a leafs in the back and to torque your torsion bars which from everything I've read sounds like a bad idea. i'd look into the bl though. cheap and i don't have any issues.

 

[quote=algranger;51156900]You would be better off running 33's wiht no lift (lower center of gravity) but if you WANT to lift, the absolute cheapest route would be shackles in the rear and tbar crank in the front

Thats exactly the answer i was looking for, strait to the point i was asking. Thank you.

 

my 33's rub when i wheel even with a 3 inch body lift with 15x7 rims with 3.75 inch backspace. but my tires have pretty big sidelugs though. i wouldnt crank the torsion bars if you dont have manual hubs. my dad cranked his about 1.5 inches on his 92 pickup and he had to change the cvs like every 8 months. before i did the body lift i was thinking what should i do to fit 33's. i thought of an add a leaf and bj spacers but then you would need longer rear shocks, maybe longer ones in the front too, then an alignment. that would cost too much for me. so i went for the body lift.

 

WHy lift it if you can fit 33"s without. Either get 33x10.5s or tub out the fender. you'll stay lower, and your truck will have a lower centre of gravity so you'll be able to go on more extreme angles.

 

hmmmm...balljoint spacers work good.

 

I would go ball joint spacers in front and 2" blocks in the rear. I ran mine like that and was perfect. I also pounded the pinch weld flat and took the plastic inner fenders out in front.

 

cheapest lift?









I figured there were some other jack-@$$ posts in here, why not throw one in myself




But yeah, if you're looking to stay in the $200 range, pick up some BJ-spacers for $100, and some blocks for the rear for say $50 or so, and save the left over $50 for 33"s I'm not a fan of blocks, but I guess if push comes to shove, and you REALLY need to add a few inches, then wth...

if you want to only spend like $20, you can get some cheapo shackels from the parts store, and crank your t-bars

no matter what route, if you mess with the front, you still need to consider the alignment; and with the rear, you have to remember the LSPV back there...

 

Some things to think about... 31's are a tight fit without any sort of lift since they can rub up front when the wheels are turned hard away from straight and the suspension compresses. 33's are more likely to rub up front at an even lesser deviation from straight ahead when the suspension compresses. Ball joint spacers will not keep tires from rubbing any more than without spacers since the compression travel is limited by the lower control arm and lower arm movement isn't restricted by BJ spacers. Shocks with more aggressive jounce dampening can help prevent the suspension from bottoming out and help prevent the tire(s) from contacting the body, but like cranking the t-bars can help prevent the same situation, both will stiffen the suspension and help prevent the suspension from going through full travel, yet with either a hard impact can still cause rubbing, at the expense of ride quality and articulation, though at a lesser extent with stiffer shocks when compared with the t-bar crank.
So if you want the bigger tires and no rubbing, something has to be done to alter either the suspension travel or move the body away from the suspension. Given that, if you only want to fit bigger tires, a body lift is the cheapest option for allowing larger tires without affecting suspension characteristics.

 

That mirrors my experience to the t. Everyone seems to think you can run 33's with a tbar crank or a pinch weld hammer but it just isn't the case. At least it isn't with the later model xcab trucks. I ran 32's with a 3" bl and it was just about perfect. I couldn't get any rub at all with them but I believe you could get 33x12's to rub pretty good. If I was going to run 33x12.50's on a truck and didn't want to hack or hammer the truck and still wanted to keep it cheap, I'd go with a 3" body lift and maybe trim the front valence a little if it rubbed. In my opinion, bj spacers, trimming or hammering, or a tbar crank won't work. The next cheapest option from a bl is a Rough Country bracket lift.