I have found videos and write ups for newer trucks with auto hubs but none for manual hubs.

 

Nevermind. My bad.

 

I think he wants to change the half-shafts, from the front differential to the front wheels. Nothing to do with the transfer case.

Have you looked in the service manual?

If the half-shafts are what you want to remove, it doesn't require a video. But you need to know the "secret": the suspension must be compressed, as though the truck is sitting on its wheels. Otherwise, the angle of the half-shafts is wrong, and you will not be able to get them out. No, don't take a sledgehammer to the differential flange! Some have needed to jack up the far corner a little, to get just a little more compression on the corner you're working on.

 

????


I just want to know if there is a write up on changing the transaxle on an 86 4X4 with manual hubs. I find a few for newer ones with auto hubs and want to know what may be different.

 

There we go. Do I unbolt it at the diff, compress the suspension and it pulls out? Should I undo the shock and sway bar to make things compress easier?


I had read some where to let the susp drop, bang out a stud on the diff side. That just didn't seem right.


Do I have to do anything to the outer side of the shaft (clips or nuts) or does it just pull out from the back?


I am used to solid axles this IFS is new to me. When I was in the Army I changed a shaft on a hummer and it was pretty easy. It was at least 15 years back though.

 

The front face of the hubs has to come off so that a snap-ring can be removed, and maybe a small axle center bolt, as well.

 

I am having a hard time find info about this year. I found a video of a 95 and the exterior of the manual hub looks the same. Is the interior the same. I fit is it is far simpler than the Spicer hub on my one ton.

 

The 1980s' and most 1990s' Aisin hubs are very similar, and fairly simple in operation.

If you take the dial out of the hub face, be careful not to lose the small detent ball and spring that are in the dial.

Sometimes you will find aftermarket hubs, like Warn, and others, I know little about those.

 

Start with the manual: http://web.archive.org/web/201102060...15componen.pdf

There is a circlip on the wheel-end of the half-shaft, and there is supposed to be a brass-plated "gold bolt" in the end of the shaft. You'll need to remove the manual hubs to get to it. The inside is just the 6 (?) nuts on studs.

You don't need to remove anything but the half-shafts; if removing the sway bar helps, go for it, but don't mess with the shocks, and leave the ball joints alone.

I suspect that there are a few who don't figure out the part about compressing the suspension (in their defense, it's not in the manual), get frustrated, and go after their diff. flange with a sledge hammer. Too embarrassed to admit they flacked-up, they post here that removing the precisely machined studs "makes it easier to replace the half-shafts in the field." uh .... yeah. Do that if you want, but you don't need to.

Last, WHY do you want to remove the half-shafts? I'm betting you've got a bad CV boot (pretty common). If you had just searched "CV Boot" you would have hit about 1/2 dozen descriptions of the job. Search doesn't always work, but it's the place you should start.

 

Thanks for the information.

I found many with full time hub but none with the manual expect older 1st gen. I was searching transaxle, half shaft and front axle.

 

Search for changing CV axles

Your use of Transaxles had me confused !!

It seems every one has there own style what every works for you

I found unbolting the steering knuckle at the lower ball joint the lower shock mount and sway bar worked best for me.

What ever works.

 

Thanks, looks like there is a couple ways to do it.