changing a cv...sigh
Jun 1, 2008 | 08:55 AM
#22
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 1
From: Searcy, Arkansas
No one said it couldn't be done a number of different ways. I only said it's easier to remove the shock at the lower mount & make your studs removable; a $2 C-clamp pops them out....it ain't rocket science.
Jun 2, 2008 | 05:22 PM
#23
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,380
Likes: 871
From: San Francisco East Bay
I am amazed at the amount of destruction people will go through to remove the half-shaft ....
bigt has it right. The secret is to jack up one wheel with the jack UNDER THE ROTOR (or someplace else so that the lifting force is on the axle -- I've lifted under the front diff, then lowered it onto a jackstand under outboard part of the rotor. You could actually do it with all the weight on the tire, but there isn't much room to work). Then just remove the nuts on the tulip end, the c-clip on the outboard end, and wrestle it out. This won't work if you have the jack stand under the diff with the A-arms hanging, and it won't even work with the jack under the lower A-arm. The angles are that precise.
Others may differ, but I would never bother removing the shock, or pressing out the studs, or squeezing anything with a C-clamp, or cutting anything with a hack saw ... you don't need to.
bigt has it right. The secret is to jack up one wheel with the jack UNDER THE ROTOR (or someplace else so that the lifting force is on the axle -- I've lifted under the front diff, then lowered it onto a jackstand under outboard part of the rotor. You could actually do it with all the weight on the tire, but there isn't much room to work). Then just remove the nuts on the tulip end, the c-clip on the outboard end, and wrestle it out. This won't work if you have the jack stand under the diff with the A-arms hanging, and it won't even work with the jack under the lower A-arm. The angles are that precise.
Others may differ, but I would never bother removing the shock, or pressing out the studs, or squeezing anything with a C-clamp, or cutting anything with a hack saw ... you don't need to.
Jun 2, 2008 | 05:29 PM
#24
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,149
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From: INDIANA
Jun 2, 2008 | 05:35 PM
#25
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 1
From: Searcy, Arkansas
I am amazed at the amount of destruction people will go through to remove the half-shaft ....
bigt has it right. The secret is to jack up one wheel with the jack UNDER THE ROTOR (or someplace else so that the lifting force is on the axle -- I've lifted under the front diff, then lowered it onto a jackstand under outboard part of the rotor. You could actually do it with all the weight on the tire, but there isn't much room to work). Then just remove the nuts on the tulip end, the c-clip on the outboard end, and wrestle it out. This won't work if you have the jack stand under the diff with the A-arms hanging, and it won't even work with the jack under the lower A-arm. The angles are that precise.
Others may differ, but I would never bother removing the shock, or pressing out the studs, or squeezing anything with a C-clamp, or cutting anything with a hack saw ... you don't need to.
bigt has it right. The secret is to jack up one wheel with the jack UNDER THE ROTOR (or someplace else so that the lifting force is on the axle -- I've lifted under the front diff, then lowered it onto a jackstand under outboard part of the rotor. You could actually do it with all the weight on the tire, but there isn't much room to work). Then just remove the nuts on the tulip end, the c-clip on the outboard end, and wrestle it out. This won't work if you have the jack stand under the diff with the A-arms hanging, and it won't even work with the jack under the lower A-arm. The angles are that precise.
Others may differ, but I would never bother removing the shock, or pressing out the studs, or squeezing anything with a C-clamp, or cutting anything with a hack saw ... you don't need to.
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