toyotatom93

My buddy knows where I can get a turbo from a celica for $300. He says it will bolt on no problem but I though I would ask around here for some more opinions. My main reason for adding a turbo is for low end torque, it would be nice to not downshift on hills. Also wondering if it would help pulling capacity?
Ideally I would want a boost between 1500 and 2500 rpm's.

AZ89LONGBED

iTrader: (3)

get an EB 261 cam, that will give you some more low-end

a turbo won't spool up until around 2500-2800 RPM, & the stock 22re compression might be a bit high for a turbo, especially if the motor has many hours on it...

toyotatom93

I suspected the turbo wouldent kick in at the range I was looking for. And my motor has alot of miles on it as well. Thanks for the tip on the 261, I will probably go that route when I overhaul.

Matt16

With a turbo, there's positive pressure in the manifold, whereas with a naturally aspirated engine, there's vacuum. This leads to lots of issues that would need to be worked out before it were to work.

Some examples:

• brake booster would work in reverse, and basically it would take twice as much pedal effort to stop as if the engine was off.
• PVC would be unable to vent
• all those little vacuum lines with whatever function they have would be disrupted
• the head on the 22RTE has more cooling or oil passages

The list goes on, and there are ways around it (like routed all the vacuum lines upstream of the turbo, but its a lot more work than simply"bolting on" a turbo". I would be easier I think to just swap in the whole engine, which is a lot more expensive than $300. Sorry to burst your bubble.

t_boneshacone

i have a turbo that should bolt on with little work that ill sell you for $100 plus whatever shipping is

dropped_dime98

^ buy that turbo or get the fitting, rebuild it and sell it for $500 assuming the fins and such are straight. Thats what ive been doing. Getting decent turbos, getting a rebuild kit and reselling. Just dont get ebay turbos.

abecedarian

true, but only positive pressure when under boost.the oem check valve in the booster's vacuum line should prevent that problem. but that's not to say the check valve won't blow out eventuallya non issue. the pcv system in the 22rte is the same as the 22re. with the turbo, both hoses to the valve cover would be under the same pressure. if there is a problem with pressurizing the crankcase, a check valve like the one in the brake booster on the fresh-air line could prevent that problem since the pcv valve itself will prevent excess pressure from entering the engine through it's hose.again, not a significant problem as they operate things like the egr valve, etc., that you wouldn't want operating under boost anyways. and as with the pcv, a check valve inline could prevent the problem should it become one.I don't think you could boost a 22re hard enough to seriously stress the stock head cooling and oil system. At worst, you may have to install oil squirters directed at the underside of the pistons.that is a very true point!

for a serious turbo install, you'll need to lower the compression ratio (new forged pistons), and maybe even an aftermarket engine management system. and as mentioned, a turbo won't give you any power until it's spooled up, which depends on the engine... but is typically around 2500 rpm for an engine the size of the 22re. for more money you can change the turbine and compressor housings and maybe drop that down to 1500-2000 rpm, but more money is required... in addition to the pistons, etc. and if you want to intercool it, there's another chunk of change.

if all you're looking for is a bit more grunt, the cam is a good option, and a tri-y header won't hurt anything either.

just a 22re

i was just going to say what abe did lol ive done turbos on motors that should even know what a turbo is lol and yes they work but if your going for low end not the way to go

plus you need to rework the fuel and what not as well

annoyingrob

I'm curious how a Celica turbo will bolt onto the 22R?

Assuming he's talking about an ST-165/185/205 turbocharger, it's a CT26, much like the Supra turbocharger, but with a smaller compressor wheel, and a divided exhaust housing (for the 185/205 models)

The turbo can bolt up to a factory 22R-TE exhaust manifold with minor modifications, but it's hardly what I would call bolt-on. You would need to source a factory 22R-TE turbo manifold, and if you were going to do that, you might as well buy a T3 manifold, and stick with a generic turbocharger.

A Celica's CT26 is not going to give you the low-end response you want. If you want to turbocharge the motor, and get some more low-end power, start looking around the Garrett T2 size turbochargers.

For example, my brother runs a T25 on his 2.3L saab, and makes 17psi by 2500rpm tops. Granted, it flows better than a 22R, but you can expect a definite increase in low-end power with a smaller turbo of that size. You would need a T2-T3 adaptor to run one on an aftermarket 22R T3 manifold.

khoopes

My engine builder said port the heads, skip the cam but try to find high ratio valve rockers that give you more lift, or do a cam with increased lift but same duration as stock. For more low end power. More duration will reduce low end.

To me by your first post it sounds like you do not want low end torque, you want high end pulling power to keep from bogging down in the hills and more pulling power.

Turbo it then. I just bought an 87 turbo runner with the stock CT20 turbo and it is light years ahead of my tired 22RE in my pickup in acceleration and highway pulling. And it is an auto- pickup is a manual! (timing chain is about out in the truck so I bet timing is a little retarded.) (Oh, and now I see why the tach has a redline- kind off useless on my truck as it sounds like the motor will sprout wings before I reach it) I am kinds excited about the runner if you can't tell.

annoyingrob

For what it's worth, if you want lots of low-end power, aim for lots of midrange power, and re-gear accordingly

abecedarian

thus back to the cam... + regear

toyotatom93

Well you guys have talked me out of it...I was lead to believe it was simply hooking up the turbo and adjusting the ECU. At any rate it sounds like more trouble than it's worth and will probably effect the reliability in the long run. I obviously dont know too much about this kind of stuff, but it sounds like the cam option is a better choice for what I want.

My buddy likes to shoot off his mouth and I figured it couldent be done that easily.

The pulling thing was for a boat that I dont even have yet, but if I can do anything to help my trucks pulling capacity I'm all for it.

abecedarian

the single best thing you can do to improve your pulling power is gears... not too much, just enough to do what you want. you still want a balance of mileage versus power. so don't go all out for gears. Yeah 5.71's with 28" tires would let you pull the chrome off a trailer hitch (yes, I exaggerate) but you'll also be running your engine near redline going down the freeway.
There's really not much difference between an offroad vehicle and a tow vehicle other than the inclination of the roads.